Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys ive made the decision to remove the cold start valve (IAC Valve) as im going to be running a link ecu very soon and i thought why not bring the car into the modern world abit more and use the ecu to control the cold start, now what id like to know is. the coolant passages that run between the intake ports on the rb25 and rb26 heads, are they linked inside the head or is the tube that is bolted and runs underneath the intake manifold in fact a crossover tube and this cannot be removed or blocked off?

 

I ask as im in the process of installing a rb26 intake manifold on my rb25 head and my adapter plates havent yet had the passages cut out of them so i thought i could use the adapter plates to block them off as my current intake manifold seem to get rather hot, ive tried searching for what feels like an eternity for a coolant flow diagram for the rb25 and 26 but i just cant seem to find one, well one that shows the coolant flow inside the block/head, any information would be great

 

thanks mike

 

Picture of pipe/tube in question:

rb26-tidy6.jpg

Edited by fikemoo

That air valve your talking about is a dumb device that is generally fed power from the fuel pump power circuit . That way it won't heat up and open unless the engine/fuel pump is actually running . If it was simply wired to the ignition circuit it would heat up and close before the engine was even started if you didn't crank it .

Having that valve means the idle speed control valve doesn't have to be that big that it can pass enough air on its own to keep a stone cold engine running . If it was it would need very fine electrical control to accurately control engine speed . To a degree the smaller the idle air control valve is the easier it is to regulate it .

If the factory knew how to do this better with the technology of the day they would have done it . Today its all done with electric throttle/s so the earlier bypass systems aren't needed .

That water log you mean carries all the engine coolant out of the head and ducts it to the top hoses water outlet . 

Thank you very much for the reply and information. I had a feeling the water log would carry the coolant away from the head I just wanted to make sure. As I did think the log could of been exclusive to the cold start valve as it was bolted to it. No problem though. I've been told for quite some time to get rid of the cold start valve as it is an ancient technology and now i have the link I can do just that :)

Plenty of people are able to get rid of the cold start valve and use the factory stepper motor for cold as start control on an aftermarket ecu.

Probably a combo of better electronics than the 80s and the majority here not living in areas where it gets nearly as cold as Japan 

unfortunately im in the uk so its quite often cold wet and windy so a cold start is something that is needed but i wanted to get rid of that crude system, it was a thread you had posted on recently pete i believe that gave me the thumbs up for getting rid of the cold start valve especially as i have the link now, this thread was more so about the coolant that runs down the sides of the ports then in to the log under the plenum which the cold start valve is bolted to, in perticular my current greddy style intake manifold for rb25 the water ways travel quite far in to the intake manifold and after a little blast in the car i was finding my intake manifold was like radiator hot (to hot to touch) so it just gave me the idea of stopping the water from entering it, but unfortunately i cannot do this

The reason that the bypass valve is bolted to the water log is so it never cools down and closes off completely unless the engines coolant is actually cold .

The idea is that if the coolant is warm it partially closes and doesn't have the engine racing if it isn't quite cold . The system actually works quite well so unless its in the way why remove it .

 

A .

Only reason I'm removing now is because I have the link ecu. I have used the system for the past few years and I've had no issues with it. But as I have the ability now I like the idea of only have one idle control valve so to speak. Less to go wrong and just a more modern system. I thought it was quite common for people to get rid of it?

Really all the system you're talking about does is help out when the engine is stone cold or nearly . When it heats up and closes only the actual idle control valve does anything . Your call but I reckon if it aint broke don't fix it . Your alternate engine management system won't care but the standard one probably will if you ever had to refit it .

A .

 

Yeah I've been doing a fair ammount of research on what each valve does and how it does it so I can make a informed decision. Another option that has been mentioned is a vw idle control valve. A great thing is that my engine loom is being completely re made for the link so nothing is set in stone and the loom can be made for whatever route I go

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...