Report that engine failure

[rs73]

Zac, BBQ and Rianto thanks for the posts. The R33 GTS25t fuel pump is a bit of a weak link, as are 180sx Silvia pumps from experience.

Geoff, after driving my car for a while with the new fuel pump, I noticed that the clicking/rattling noise in the engine bay seem to disappear. I think since the car is no longer running lean, the new pump has cured the pinging problem and the result is a happy engine with smoother sound when revved. I finally got a chance to fang it down a private track yesterday and boy does it pull strongly in all gears.

[GTRgeoff]

Excellent news Rianto. I just hope no permanent damage was done. Have you had a workshop look into the cylinders with a scope to inspect for possible bore damage? they just go in through the plug hole with the piston at BDC.

[omp]

Sorry to hi jack the thread but in reply to bobjones, Chevy454 con rod bolts fit into RB20 rods but the rods require the smallest of machining less than 15 thou, but the bolts are the right length and have the same shape head.......

[B-Man]

Do they work in RB25 rods ?

[Bobjones]

Sorry to hi jack the thread but in reply to bobjones, Chevy454 con rod bolts fit into RB20 rods but the rods require the smallest of machining less than 15 thou, but the bolts are the right length and have the same shape head.......

Thanks for that.

I spoke to Simon on the weekend, and I can say is I feel for you. And I would be getting stuck into that other guy...what a tool.

I like the cooler where did you get that done????

I was in there on Saturday and you box is now out, are you getting this serviced while your at it???

I was there pulling the timing belt off again as an idler was making a funny noise...nice little project for a Saturday morning then put it back together so I can go out...

the car now runs like an absolute dream which is testiment to Simon, Rob and Wayne (who works elsewhere) You will be happy with the result. Just took a long way to get there!!!

[Bobjones]

So every step along the way my workshop has been honest, the scary thing is that some people are not.  Currently, in this workshop there is a 180, with a $15K engine, when we pulled it down, no forgies as told, and the reason for the engine failure...standard bottom end bearings in the WRONG way...

Hey thats my car! Lol! I knew it didn't have forgies in it as I only wanted a std rebuild. I was supposed to watch the rebuild but didn't, I wanted to see how an engine was rebuilt so badly (I have never seen it before) I guess I went to the right place!

Other mistakes he did miss-aligned camshafts (both) 2-3 teeth out (The fella didn't know why it didn't run properly so another shop diagnosed this as ECU so I had microtech fitted which did not solve the problem obviously), sealant in the oil pump which caused low oil pressure and destroyed 3 std turbo's and of course the lucky special upside down bearings!

The conversion cost me $16k at the time but $6.5k of this was fixing the engine rebuilders stuff-ups (but includes microtech (missdiagnosis unfortunately but it shouldn't of had to been diagnosed in the first place), 3std turbo's, my new turbo(T4-T3 hybrid), new clutch (as the last one I thought was shagged as it slipped and felt weird-pedal went soft/hard at different points) when the new clutch was being fitted it is how my mate changing the clutch found the 2-3mm endfloat in the crank, new oil pump + fitting, other bits and pieces. Now factoring in the new rebuild it will of pushed my simple RB conversion over $20k, if it cost me $10k with std rebuilt RB20 I woulda been a lot happier.

 The funny thing is the guy who stuffed my engine up has a chip on his shoulder at ME! Lol! funny little fella! He works at his old mans shop and at first he (the young fella) said they would pay for everything, then his old man said he offered no warranty as I was involved in the conversion (I fitted fuel pump organised wiring loom etc but NOT the engine build)! So they are only paying for new crank and bearings only and removal and refitting of the engine only. I have had to pay for everything else (head rebuild/re-co etc) lucky it was only the bottom end that was stuffed the head was ok no foriegn matter. Funny thing his business card says "guarantee's on all work" Hmm may have fun with that.

Oh yea sorry for the long post

Geezuz that is alot...

Oh and it must be either a 1, 2 Warranty or a Concrete Warranty...Once you have it 2 bad, or it leave the Concrete there is your warranty...

Once you get your car back I think you need to pass on this guys details...

[NA_R33]

Engine/Car: 33 GTR VSPEC/RB26DETT

Type of failure: No Exhaust wheels on turbos, possible further engine damage.

Factors influencing the failure: Car blowing lots of smoke 1 day after purchase, took it back to the dealer to be fixed full well knowing the turbos were ****ed, a week later i pick it up with nothing more then cleaned intake pipes and fresh oil. 2 days later, no boost.

State of tune of the engine: HKS cat back, HKS cooler piping and pods, rest it stock

Suspension and tyres: Stock

Oil used and service interval: Just what came in the car, first time i didnt change it as soon as i got home.

General comments: Not happy, this has lead to lots of complications with the dealer not wanting to repair the car, its waiting for my mechanic to come back from holidays to be pulled down and inspected but i havent driven the car for more then 8 days since purchased on the 7th of July

[Ahh32]

R32 gts-t RB20det

1st failure:

TYPE: ALL ring lands cracked several times

REASON: driving car without tune and 1 bar boost

MODS: HKS 3037s, FMIC, 3" exhaust, 044

SUSPENSION: Tein HA

Comments: do not drive car with with broken ring land, and catch can, hard. painted my car with oil several times. drove in this state for over 18 Months

[Ahh32]

2nd failure:

Engine 500kms old

happened last night.

TYPE: no 6 conrod nut come off and got mangled, possible spun bearing, bend conrod, stuffed crank

REASON: put conrod cap on backwards when rebuilt engine. Had car on dyno getting tuned up to 5000rpm last week, went for a drive last night, 1st through to 4th gear up to 6000rpm, did this once then, *rattle *rattle.

MODS: stock turbo 8psi, GTR cams, GTR injectors, 3" exhaust, FMIC, 044

SUSP. TIRES: Tein HA's, Toyo Proxes T1-S

comments: i don't know how i put it on wrong i checked it about 10 times. maybe i shouldn't have done that bit at night, other than that goes good, will have better investigation of damage tommorow when i pull it all apart. i really don't won't to have to replace my conrod as it doesn't look bent but i think it may have suffered a bit of fatigue what do you guys reckon.

[fatz]

im back

lol

700km old engine

mounted gutter at the drift nats, snapped fitting on oil cooler

loss of 4 litres of oil in engine ( engine fine tunred of just before it starved) however the lack of oil seazed the turbos)

pete

[fatz]

thank god it was only the turbos and not the 700km old forged engine!!!!!!!!

i would have killed so

[KamikazeR33]

Engine/Car:R33 GTS-t S2

Type of failure:broken ring or piston in cyl #3

Factors influencing the failure: too lean holding 6k in 5th gear

State of tune of the engine:road tune (hard to do with a screamer)

Suspension and tyres: std shocks on apexi springs - jap tyres

Oil used and service interval:variety but always 5w40 every 5k

General comments:havent stripped it down yet to find the problem but oil on a spark plug isnt good

[Bobjones]

Engine/Car:R33 GTS-t S2

Type of failure:broken ring or piston in cyl #3

Factors influencing the failure: too lean holding 6k in 5th gear

State of tune of the engine:road tune (hard to do with a screamer)

Suspension and tyres: std shocks on apexi springs - jap tyres  

Oil used and service interval:variety but always 5w40 every 5k

General comments:havent stripped it down yet to find the problem but oil on a spark plug isnt good

Had the same problem...turned out to be the rings...hopefully it will be the same for you...

[RedDrifter]

Engine/Car: RB20DET HCR32 GTS-T

Type of failure:

Melted piston and busted rings.

Factors influencing the failure:

Bought the car with a sickfuel pump.

Upgraded to an RB25 Turbo still didn't know about the sick fuel pump.

I finnally had the car dynoed and then after seeing 16:1 a/f ratio bought a new fuel pump.

State of tune of the engine:

Stock computer.

Suspension and tyres:

D2 coilovers. Set of R33 rims.

Oil used and service interval:

Penright engine oil.

General comments:

After I fixed the fuel pump I decided things were ok and got a FMIC.

After that and 16psi I manged to fill a catch can up in one night.

Anyway I knew the time was near for it to tottaly shit itself.

Motor lasted 12months with the cooler and 16psi with low compression on pot one.

The motor decided to die finnally at the drags 4 months ago.

Cooked them pistons good. :flamed:

[gtrjazz]

Had my car a few months then the rear turbo ceramic wheel snaped due to exessive boost Metal hard pipe had worked loose. This scored the cylinders causing lots of blue smoke on the way home.Striped the motor and found scratched oil pump . Marks in valves and seats,scratches down the sides of cambuckets,Cams and bearings scratched. Crank scratched.Hego broken.The block needed metal stiching as it was cracked between the water way and head bolt hole(nothing to do with the turbo problem). Also showing signs of a porus block above the turbo oil pipe fitting.Rebuilt using N1 oil pump First oversize ACL shells rebuilt turbos with steel internals JE Pistons. 500 Miles after build on of the turbos failed. Changed to 2nd hand HKS 2540 50 miles later knocked a end out. Striped the motor crank centre bearing broken up ends worn oil pump marked. Found the crank to have bad wear at the contact area with thrust washer. Sourcing another part at this time.

[t01-100]

Nissan Skyline GTS-t M-Spec

Engine temp went sky high, lost power and started rattling

Dented oil sump prevented oil pick-up... therefore no oil was feeding thru!

Unichp, 3" exhuast, 18psi, steel wheel turbo,

Bilstien coilvers, Bridgestone RE540s

Oil changed every 200km/every second race meet

Pulled the engine out, put another one in, retuned it and back on the track!

[Roy]

Nissan Skyline GTS-t M-Spec

Engine temp went sky high, lost power and started rattling

Dented oil sump prevented oil pick-up... therefore no oil was feeding thru!

Unichp, 3" exhuast, 18psi, steel wheel turbo,  

Bilstien coilvers, Bridgestone RE540s

Oil changed every 200km/every second race meet

Pulled the engine out, put another one in, retuned it and back on the track!

Spun bottom end bearing in my RB20 as well. The night before it happened was under the car fixing jammed wastegate only to see that the sump had a dirty big dent in it.

Car had an intermittent miss at high rpm due to old shoddy plugs, IMO the combination of these two factors cost me the engine.

[t01-100]

yeah, this was something we simply over looked.... expsensive mistake though.

mine has a drama with the throlle position sensor too, appears to stutter when you try and hold revs at different throttle positions. realy pain in the arse.

[NA_R33]

update on my shitter, turbos are off, strangley only the front turbo spat the exhaust wheel generally its the rear, nengun sent my new ones today so hopefully i wont be making a new post in hear netime soon.

Rear turbo:

Front Turbo:

[deadsilly]

Engine/Car: r32 gts-t rb20det

Type of failure: rings / turbo

Factors influencing the failure: unknown, atm bov? injectors cloged? oil?

State of tune of the engine: cat back/ pod filter / stock boost

Suspension and tyres: std

Oil used and service interval: just picked car up (they had just changed oil)

General comments: The car went like a dream untill they changed the oil. The car start pinged going up a hill (backed off) got to top bov went off car stalled. restarted car then noting but smoke. atm bov was spraying oil lots of it. pressure from cylinders was spitting dip stick out and spraying oil.

went back to dealer they replaced engine turbo. Now the oil pressure is getting low when the car has been running for 40min+. I am also starting to get pinging when the engine is hot under full boost. :hellpisd:

what do I do as QLD is starting to warm up which I Know will cause more problems.