Report that engine failure

[amnash]

Engine/Car: R32 gts rb20det

Type of failure: spun #1 rod bearing

Factors influencing the failure: oil temps got up to 280 degrees F on highway

State of tune of the engine: everything oem spec

Suspension and tyres:

Oil used and service interval: non synthetic still breaking in

General comments: purchased greddy oil cooler after

[SilverECR33]

r33 rb25/30det w/vct

failure: heat exchanger mounted over rb30 stock oil filter thread stud, causes oil bypass so no filtration or cooling to oil cooler.

failed at 660kms

Was a tight motor.

Wear on crank /gurdle thrust bearing stuffed, oil pump backing plate also chewed up. head cam /lifter galleries , & crank stopped pumping oil. conrods, crank, head, cams all stuffed.

no bearings spun, all evenly worn. (acl race series).

[Traah221]

Thread hasn't been touched in awhile, so figured I'd throw my two cents in.

1992 R32 GTS-T Type M, RB20DET, about 110k km or so.

Failure: Blown headgasket/cracked head, followed up by scored cylinder No. 3

Factors: Shoddy (at best) maintenance on part of the last owner, coupled with some rough driving.

State of Tune: Stock JDM Tune, full 3" decat.

Suspension: Zeal Coilovers, Falken 215/45/R16 on 9.5" Rear, 8.5" front

Oil: Mobil 1 Synth. 15W-50, fresh as of 300km ago

Comments: I took it upon myself to treat it to a fluid flush/swap, but never decided to flush the radiator. Best I can figure, the solid debris I found in/around coolant piping formed itself a nice dam around the lanes near Cylinder 3, letting it get nice and hot before one of my should-have-known-better high speed corners busted it loose. Engine temp skyrocketed in seconds, but Oil temp remained stable. Began pouring water into Cylinder 3, puffing just white smoke, no burning oil, but the real damage came from having no choice but to limp it about 140km back home, out of the mountains, running it like that. Poor old beast got me all the way home, stopping every 15 minutes or so to let it cool and refill my radiator with water. A quick look past the valve covers told me all I needed to know. Looked like an extra-light Caramel Milkshake, further inspection when it was out showed me the damage to Cyl. 3 caused by lubrication via water for the whole trip. Not Pretty.

[mikep]

Engine/Car: RB25DET / Skyline R33 Series 2 GTST

Type of failure: Snapped crankshaft

Factors influencing the failure: None

State of tune of the engine: As delivered from factory except K&N panel filter and 3" catback exhaust

Suspension and tyres: Stock

Oil used and service interval: Martini / 5000k

General comments: Driving to work, stopped at a set of lights, heard a grinding sound, lights went green was able to drive car but noticed power steering wasnt working. Pulled in to parking bay, popped bonnet and no ancillaries were turning over.

Once car was at the mechanics it turns out that the crankshaft had snapped where it meets the pulley. Closer inspection of the crank once removed suggests it was a casting problem. Thankfully the mechanic said this is extremely rare in the RB25DET engines..

Mike

[Muff]

Hi all. I just pulled an rb26 out of a r33 gtr I just bought. It was stock as they come. Pulled bottem end apart and all 6 pistons had cracked ring landings. Car had 110 000klm. After new engine went in it was on dyno run in and started to lean out on boost. Fuel pump was stuffed. So original cause of engine failure was fuel pump. So just a warning if u still have the stock pump get it checked once in a while. Enjoy...

[tripsteady]

Obvious but simple lessons learnt from this thread so far :

- replace your fuel pump if you have a stock one. These cars are old now Its not expensive and could cause many more expensive issues down the line if faulty

- never ever change main components without following it with a tune

- heat will kill this engine , keep it as cool as you can

- change your fluids regularly...

Yes obvious...but important.

[Jazzadub]

Engine/Car:

1992 Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-4
RB26DETT with GT2859R-9 turbos.

Factory oil pump gear had just failed due to narrow oil pump drive.

Was replaced with an N1 oil pump, new bearings and longer crank snout.

Had been driven only a few thousand Ks and then I bought the car.

Type of failure:

Terminal oil pump gear failure (N1 oil pump).

Factors influencing the failure:

N1 oil pump

Either missed 3rd gear or wheelspun and hit rev limiter.

Instantly lost oil pressure (idiot light came on, and standard oil pressure gauge dropped to zero)

See comments also.

State of tune of the engine:

Had recently been tuned for the -9s, don't think the tune was a contributing factor in this failure.

Suspension and tyres:

Not relevant.

Oil used and service interval:

Oil changed frequently, not sure on type.

General comments:

Didn't want to skimp out on the rebuild so was taken to RIPS.

On inspection there was also evidence of detonation - pitting in head and pistons, scores in cylinders.

Also the crank pulley bolt was loose causing the keys and keyways to round off. This could have created a bit of slop that could have been a contributing factor in the oil pump failing.

That said I wouldn't put an N1 pump in if someone paid me!

Currently being rebuilt with low K R33 shortblock, ACL bearings, ARP rod bolts, new piston rings, Tomei oil pump, enlarged sump, the whole shebang!

Fingers crossed there are no issues with this build!

I don't have pictures of the damage unfortunately but attached are some pics of the reassembled engine - hope that's OK!

[Skylinefreak1]

Engine/Car: RB25DET S2, R31 Skyline

Type of failure: Broken ringlandings and melted piston on NO.1

Factors influencing the failure: Detonation, it was knocking in the region where knock control was not active, water/methanol injection was not spraying constantly during a high boost run with water temp +-82deg C on inlet side and oil temp around 75deg C in the sump.

State of tune of the engine: Stock, unopened RB25DET S2 with about 72k on. Garrett GT3071R on 1.4 bar, Tial 38mm wastegate, FMIC, 3" exhaust, Link G4 Xtreme, Mishimoto radiator, AEM water/methanol injection, DW 1000cc injectors.

Suspension and tyres: Stockish suspension, 225/45R17 Hankook Ventus V12 Evo

Oil used and service interval: Shell Helix Ultra

General comments: From the video I could see afterwards that the water/meth injection light was flickering (instead of constant on) during a 1.4bar run from 1st gear through to 5th, on my gearchange from 4th I noticed blue smoke in the mirror, engine still ran fine, made boost etc. Got home, saw that it pushed the dipstick out, oil all over the engine bay and oil out the air filter as well. Did compression test and got 300kpa on no.1, 800+kpa on the rest. Took the engine out and stripped, broken ringlandings and melted piston on no.1.

Getting rebuilt with CP pistons, RB26 rods, ACL bearings, ARP head studs and Cometic HG now, also crank collar to save the oil pump.

Edited July 27, 2015 by Skylinefreak1

[8ull8ar]

Bump!

RB25DET r33 gtst

Failure: heat related misfire

History: had the car a month, never pedal to the metal, but occasional appropriate usage. However, car was set up for drifting, nistune ecu and breathing gear on stock donk & snail at 18psi.

What happened: immediate loss of most power and noise - thought I'd blown a ring. Pulled over within 25 metres, wasn't speeding or putting any real demands on engine during routine daily commute. Problem identified as heat related by mechanics, who then blew turbo after sparks & coilpacks were replaced. Problem unsolved!

*****************

Failure: blown stock turbo

History: please see above

What happened: while checking for misfire re-occurance, mechanics blew up snail. Blamed vehicles probable history as sole reason for fault, but may not have checked boost pressure and used appropriatly, or been watching gauges.

******************

Failure: engine failure on dyno

History: car put in care of larger performance workshop, and full recent history explained in writing. After new turbo installed, they think best way forward is dynotest. Heat related misfire occurs again (duh) and under load blows engine, specifics unexplained.

What happened: it's been reported that a teesy little noise was noticed just in time to get off the throttle, saving engine from total destruction. I decide on a full engine rebuild using better than stock parts, to solve issues for forseeable future

Bloody skylines huh? Maybe should have stuck with my old 1980 bluebird ?

[8ull8ar]

Bump!

RB25DET r33 gtst

Failure: heat related misfire

History: had the car a month, never pedal to the metal, but occasional appropriate usage. However, car was set up for drifting, nistune ecu and breathing gear on stock donk & snail at 18psi.

What happened: immediate loss of most power and noise - thought I'd blown a ring. Pulled over within 25 metres, wasn't speeding or putting any real demands on engine during routine daily commute. Problem identified as heat related by mechanics, who then blew turbo after sparks & coilpacks were replaced. Problem unsolved!

*****************

Failure: blown stock turbo

History: please see above

What happened: while checking for misfire re-occurance, mechanics blew up snail. Blamed vehicles probable history as sole reason for fault, but may not have checked boost pressure and used appropriatly, or been watching gauges.

******************

Failure: engine failure on dyno

History: car put in care of larger performance workshop, and full recent history explained in writing. After new turbo installed, they think best way forward is dynotest. Heat related misfire occurs again (duh) and under load blows engine, specifics unexplained.

What happened: it's been reported that a teesy little noise was noticed just in time to get off the throttle, saving engine from total destruction. I decide on a full engine rebuild using better than stock parts, to solve issues for forseeable future

Bloody skylines huh? Maybe should have stuck with my old 1980 bluebird ?

[R33 Jared]

Engine/Car: R33 GTS, RB25de

Type of failure: Piston to Valve contact

Factors influencing the failure:

Video Link: https://youtu.be/qXXQVrX0kzo

The bolt attaching the Harmonic Balancer to the block attained a stress fracture and cracked.

State of tune of the engine: Stock 100%

Suspension and tyres: BC Coilovers, Bridgestone PlayZ

Oil used and service interval: Nulon 5w40

General Comments: Decided to import a RB25det from the motherland for $2,500 and did the S2 transplant.

[Duncan]

wow that is unique. got some close up pics of the bolt? know much about the history of the car?

[R33 Jared]

wow that is unique. got some close up pics of the bolt? know much about the history of the car?

Unfortunately no, I had owned the car for many months, drove it pretty sensible but possibly the previous owner failed the torque the bolt or did something abnormal regarding installation, as far as I know the harmonic balancer had never been removed though.

[BK]

Thought I'd add to this thread-

 

[SKYMAGGOT]

Doesn't seem too likely if you break a ringland it goes through the turbo?

Does happen but rough guess at the odds of it happening?

[GTSBoy]

On 8/29/2021 at 2:39 PM, SKYMAGGOT said:

Doesn't seem too likely if you break a ringland it goes through the turbo?

Does happen but rough guess at the odds of it happening?

Where else is a chunk off the top of the piston going to go?

[QLDR31]

Engine/Car: RB25DET NEO S2 Stagea

Type of failure: Overheated

Factors influencing the failure: Pitted block, piston 6 was clean eg had coolant on top, no coolant in oil

State of tune of the engine: stock

Suspension and tyres: stock with R34 GTT rims

Oil used and service interval: approx 5000km, 5W40 Synthetic of whats on special

General comments: The head was bent, this may of happened after overheating. Mechanic said the head gasket had been patched up by previous owner. Lasted me around 160K. Nearly got it back on the road. 😀

[CEF33Y]

Thread bump!

Engine/Car: RB25DET

Type of failure: Broken ring lands, damaged rod bearing

Factors influencing the failure: Possibly self inflicted, I made changes AFTER I had it tuned... Pod filter replaced airbox

State of tune of the engine: 265rwkw. Vipec plugin, hypergear turbo, 750cc injectors, 255 fuel pump, direct FP feed, cooler, exhaust, remote oil cooler.

Suspension and tyres: Drift setup

Oil used and service interval: Penrite 10 10ths 10-40w changed prior to every track day (<1000km)

General comments: 

Bit of a weird one. Car has had blowby (only on the track) since I had it tuned. It's a street/drift car. Street driving it is fine, doesn't use/burn oil.

On the track, I was filling my 500ml (yes, I know it's a bit small) catch can in 5 laps of QR big track.

Compression was 152-156 across all 6. 265rwkw, 20psi, car still ripped.

I assumed blowby was just RB things. Tried splash covers and mines style sponges under the rocker covers. No change.

Planned to pull the head off, do restrictors, head drain/vent and head studs, new gasket.

Got head off, and No.6 had some det evidence and the slightest deformation on the exhaust side of piston. All bores look pretty good, with cross hatching still visible in parts . Motor was out of the car, so pulled No.6 to have a look, and a chunk of ringland was loose, between rings, about 40mm long.

No.5 was the same

No.3 and 4 were ok

No.2 Broken same as 5,6

No.1 cracked (1 vertical crack in ringland)

No.2 rod bearing was showing some copper (still feels smooth, crank feels ok also), the other bearings look good.

I have no Idea how it was still running, let alone drifting. Last drift's were pretty full on (QR matsuri) but did about 500km of street driving since that.

Now after it was tuned, I changed the air filter from an airbox, to a shielded pod filter. Seat of the pants it felt the same, and audibly couldn't hear any det, but I may have caused this one I reckon.

I'm guessing it' had some lean condition/Det, and that's what caused the broken ringlands.

No.2 rod bearing is a bit odd though, why only No.2?

Still in teardown and measure stage, to work out next steps.

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

5 hours ago, CEF33Y said:

Now after it was tuned, I changed the air filter from an airbox, to a shielded pod filter. Seat of the pants it felt the same, and audibly couldn't hear any det, but I may have caused this one I reckon.

Highly doubt it, as you're not using an AFM anymore.

Your load calculations are via the MAP & IAT sensors.

[GTSBoy]

As per Johnny Turkey Gobble above, it was not the filter change.

I would suggest high crankcase pressure caused oil to be blown through the valve guides when under boost. Oil in the mixture = reduced octane = detonation.