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Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0


Piggaz

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43 minutes ago, Mick_o said:

What are the temperature ratings on the Festo pneumatic hose and fittings?  It looks nice and neat and definitely easy to install. But I'm a bit sceptical it would live long on the hotside there? ?

80 degrees c for the nylon fittings, reasonablysure the tube if nylon would be good to over 100 c.

If I was to use push for fittings I would use metal ones, although aerofloe also sell nylon pushfit fittings and some pretty serious cars run them for waste gate plumbing.

 

 

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15 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

80 degrees c for the nylon fittings, reasonablysure the tube if nylon would be good to over 100 c.

If I was to use push for fittings I would use metal ones, although aerofloe also sell nylon pushfit fittings and some pretty serious cars run them for waste gate plumbing.

 

 

Cheers for the info! I think I will still remain sceptical of their long term reliability lol

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16 minutes ago, Mick_o said:

Cheers for the info! I think I will still remain sceptical of their long term reliability lol

Same! Sure as hell wouldn't be doing that without protections for over boost setup!

 

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I ended up going nuts and running 200 series -3 fittings there as the tube i had was breaking down and giving me boost controller issues, or so I thought.

Turns out the wires on the MAC solenoid plug had got hot and broken...

Oh well i know it really won't leak now though.

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2 hours ago, Mick_o said:

What are the temperature ratings on the Festo pneumatic hose and fittings?  It looks nice and neat and definitely easy to install. But I'm a bit sceptical it would live long on the hotside there? ?

Not sure what the temp rating is for the lines and fittings. I haven't finished the build yet and will be putting heat sheathing on each of the lines to keep them from melting. My manifold, gates, and turbo also have lava wrap and blankets on them to help reduce heat.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello all, I have a 1972 Datsun 240z with rb26 on an efr 8474 ewg with sinco custom dual 38mm tial and 3.5” exhaust. Unopened motor r33gtr rb26, has r35 coils, prp trigger kit, 180amp alternator, elite 2500, id1050x. Hks step 1 264 cams, adjustable cam gears( not adjusted). Had my first dyno tune with the car/engine a few days ago to 415rwhp and 352ftlbs of torque on 15lbs, USA dyno, 91oct. The concern I have is the time it takes to hit full boost on the efr8474, I’m not hitting full boost until 5,500rpm (15lbs no ebc, just wastegate springs). I was expecting this turbo to hit full boost around 7-800 rpm sooner at that boost level. I have a small vacuum leak and my wideband wasn’t working are the only issues I had... is there something possibly wrong or is this rpm boost expected with my setup?

 

Edited by brian_s30z
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adjust the cams? That's really late for 15psi but reasonable with poorly optimised cam timing.

Is your boost control soft? Holding the solenoid on while your spooling can help too.

Boost leaks don't help either

Edited by burn4005
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1 hour ago, burn4005 said:

adjust the cams? That's really late for 15psi but reasonable with poorly optimised cam timing.

Is your boost control soft? Holding the solenoid on while your spooling can help too.

Boost leaks don't help either

He has no boost control. 

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I do have a boost solenoid but per the psi I wanted 1bar, the springs are all that’s workingboost control. Hopefully cam adjustment will do the trick, once I fix leak and o2 sensor I’ll try to dyno again. But with cam adjustment I still think I’m a bit off. I’ve read folks with 9174 with unopened rb26 hit full boost low to mid 4K rpm

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Makes sense.  I have 10.15 psi spring on each wastegate. So I’m not sure why it’s going all the way to 15lbs without ebc connected. I have a haltech/Mach 3 port solenoid. Should I go to 8psi spring?

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rb26 swapped 240z sounds like fun!  but 1bar boost at 5500rpm is definitely not correct for 8474 on rb26.  Boost leaks are a big issue, and exhaust leak is equally likely, given how laggy the boost is coming on.  2 smoke tests (boost leak and exhaust leak) are recommended

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GFB DV+ T9360 is a re-circulation valve designed for OEM used BW turbos, while not officially advertised to fit an EFR by GFB, I have tested fits on an EFR.

All bolt holes align.  Plunger seal is pretty much the same diameter as the face inside the compressor housing so it seals.  Piston is workable length to be able to vent when fully compressed into the BPV body.  One slight issue is outer seal on compressor housing doesn't sit in factory grove but still sits on a flat surface on the compressor housing

Edited by RB335
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  • 2 weeks later...
12 minutes ago, brian_s30z said:

Checked my ignition timing and it was on 10btdc. The haltech has it on 10degrees too. Tuner is going to verify and fix, hopefully that is the reason 8474 is coming on late 

There's nothing  to fix. They need match between ecu and light, that's all. They do match.

 

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27 minutes ago, brian_s30z said:

I thought is suppose to be set at 20btdc..?

With the haltech (and other ecus) all that has to happen is they match. Can be any number you want with an ecu that you can lock the timing to that chosen number. Change it to 20 in the haltech and chech with gun, it will be on 20.

 

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57 minutes ago, brian_s30z said:

I thought is suppose to be set at 20btdc..?

Yes. And no. What Ben is trying to say is that the sync timing is not the idle timing.

Manuals (RBs) should idle at 15°. Many of the autos idle at 20° because it makes them have a little more torque at idle which is needed to keep the engine working against the load of the torque converter.

The sync timing just means that the ECU knows what the actual engine angle is. The actual timing that is run at any moment is then simply what one table or another in the ECU demands. 4000rpm and 20 psi of boost? Likely to be about 20°. That's 20° exactly, because the ECU knows where zero is (because the ECU was told where 10° was).

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all. I’m currently installing my EFR7670 setup on my R33 GTR and have some questions on finishing it up

 

  1. Should i route the water feed line from the feed line coming from the back of the engine and T to the block, similar to the stock turbos setup? Can I just do the water feed from the block near cylinder 5 without having to bring in the rear line from the other side of the motor?
  2. Should I follow BW’s directions and plug the water feed on the bottom side and water return from the top side of the turbo? 
  3. What’s the max boost I should consider? I know it runs on the smaller side but want to avoid over spinning the turbo (it’s a EWG 1.05 AR)
Edited by cachorro
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