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Hey everyone I've recently built in RB30 26 in my R34 series 2 I'm running Evan's waterless coolant new technology my car sits at around 95 degrees wondering if this is a standard temp in comparison to standard coolant additives.16e301d34ef80ed723f53bf3c1d76420.jpg

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You don't say whether that is at idle, in traffic or racing but 95 deg is fine.

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Never used evens waterless coolant but in theory shouldn't it run cooler? 95 degrees sounds hot for normal operating temp, my stockish rb25 sits around 82-83 operating temp with normal Nulon coolant and stock radiator.

though on the track my mates 25/30 sees 100+ regularly and nothing drastic has happened.

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This is an interesting topic. I am actually thinking of running Evans waterless in my RB. Please do post updates and feedback. Thanks.

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Just had a look through some of my logs.

Summer driving around without too much traffic sees anywhere from 70-85'C

Summer during stop start 80-92'C

Summer while setting up anti lag and launch control 85-93'C

Thermo fans, 42mm rad, Penrite coolant. Using the factory ecu temp sensor to adaptronic. Fmic. Fans turn on at 90'C and turn off at 86'C

 

I remember a mates NEO used to sit around 95'C during summer. The defi alarm would go off every now and then (100'C?). Stock rad, unknown coolant with a fmic.

 

How well calibrated is your coolant temp sensor @brodielezgt  

That seems like a very low temp for std rad @dyl33 

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When should I start getting worried.
Is a stepmaster water gauge sensor. I taped the sensor into the bolt of turbo water inlet. I got a oil cooled turbo

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The sensor is in the hottest part of the engine. the stock temp sensor is exactly half

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3 minutes ago, brodielezgt said:

When should I start getting worried.

I wouldn't be worried. Seems normal from what I've personally seen. And a quick skim through some old temp threads shows anywhere from 70'C-105'C to be normal. Obviously depending on your location and season.

 

Something to think about - With no fans and bonnet shut in the sun at idle, my temps seem to progressivly slow down once they get over 95'C. Takes roughly 10mins to get to 110'C

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my mate ran this in his LS
temps improved 10-15C

but, he also had a leaking radiator repaired at the same time so i'm not sure if that had anything to do with the decrease in temps

not worth it i think. You wouldn't want a hose full of oil letting go on a high speed bend

plus, you have to completely remove all the water from your engine otherwise the product won't work properly (its best to use on a new engine that's never had water)

to completely dry out the water gallery's we removed the top and bottom radiator hose then connected a leaf blower into the top hose and let it blow into the engine for 10 minutes until there wasn't any more water coming out of the bottom hose


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Is the penrite a waterless coolant.
Well it's has reached 105 in that part of the engine .

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Isn't this stuff just glycol on glycol?  So in theory you could just glug in all green stuff from any manufacturer?

contrails.free.fr/temp/NPG+_MSDS.PDFCached

 

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What did you  expect it to do? It is not designed to make your engine cooler it just has a higher boiling point than water...190 deg C if you believe the label. So water temp is not the concern - you should keep an eye on your oil temperature and pressure.

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It is made to not boil like water. The temps will be the same. But when it doesn't boil it has better temp management.

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For those thinking about it, mine's had Evans in it for about 4 years now. It's hassle free, no temperature problems. I'm happy with it.

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Temps will be higher than water... for a perfectly working system.
Water has better heat capacty so will cool slightly better, until it boils. the point of this stuff is for bikes/crappy old cars etc where the cooling system is poor and you don't want it to boil even if it gets hot.
The racing coolant is the opposite, where you need maximum cooling (and also don't want to dump glycol on the track) and your cooling system is on point so its not going to get to a temp where it could boil.

 

Basically, best coolant is normal coolant.

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I ran this coolant in my RB26 after engine rebuild as heard promising results. Turned out to be quite expensive (compared to normal coolant) and as already said was really no different to normal coolant under normal driving conditions. I too expected it to run cooler but that is not what it's meant to do and just resists it more effectively. Didn't really get to test it properly under extreme conditions but had a few leaks and it smelt quite strange when spilt as well. When it leaks of course you must only top it up with more Evans coolant which is really quite difficult to find (had to buy mine through mail order) so if you are not carrying some with you and get a leak you are in allot of trouble... Ended up getting rid of it after not very long as it is just too expensive for not a great deal of benefit under normal driving conditions. More inconvenient to maintain for me and never had any problems with normal coolant anyway so just went back to that.

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Im about to put in a new koyo radiator and during my research came across Red Line Water Wetter

The claims and reviews give it decent thumbs up, naturally I bought some as an option

Anyone able to vouch for it?

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Not unless they have done back to back testing with normal coolant...

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