Jump to content
SAU Community

Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread


Recommended Posts

Just ordered a new 10bar pressure sensor, time to get this car to the dyno me thinks....

And shout out to @soviet_merlin @r32-25t for pointing out moron here (me) posted up my address in a screenshot of parts I'm about to order. Thanks @niZmO_Man for deleting it :)

Derp...

In other news, Birrong Automotive has a hub dyno now that I can use. Means no more wheel spin and over strapping (this causes power loss and tyre wear).

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took months to sort this out, just time/motivation/priorities but managed to replace the stuffed Haltech/Ti Automotive 10bar pressure sensor with an EFI Solutions 10bar stainless steel sensor.

Hopefully it lasts longer than the previous one? I was going to replace the faulty sensor with a Bosch item, however interwebs users reckon the diaphragm dies and you'll have fluid pissing out of the connector. Wasn't keen on seeing an oil fountain so just replaced with something similar with the same connector. 

Sensor check appears good now, also decided to stuff about with the Ignition Zero Demand table to give the car more street credit at the lights, will start it up on the weekend and record a video to prove I'm cool with braps lol.

PXL_20220510_111746456.thumb.jpg.a7dbccfeb24ff96b2cf0399873a3d953.jpg

PXL_20220510_112245073.thumb.jpg.4085e8f2f6b4bcfb8f2cce7504b9f74b.jpg

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
On 29/05/2022 at 4:47 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Hmmm you're right, I'll pull down dash cam footage 😊

For some reason the dash cam didn't record on the way there :( 

I only gate video, super short is when I entered the tunnel - I'll get better footage soon (ignore the choice of music)

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 03/05/2022 at 6:38 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Just ordered a new 10bar pressure sensor, time to get this car to the dyno me thinks....

 Birrong Automotive has a hub dyno now that I can use. Means no more wheel spin and over strapping (this causes power loss and tyre wear).

Nice, if you haven't yet - hub dynos ftmfw, I have no idea how guys have been struggling with rolling dynos for so long and it's nice seeing Oz workshops etc getting over the ripping on Kiwis for using them because they read high and joining the dark side.   Steady state and repeatable tuning is so good, especially knowing that unexpected "not the gains I was expecting here" etc question marks can be linked to issues as opposed to wondering if it's just to do with tyre/roller interfaces etc.   The numbers will be a bit bigger than non-US roller dynos but that's not what it's about.

Look forward to seeing what this thing does on send, it is a cool setup and definitely got some potential.  Good luck (y) 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They can of course be configured every which way (like any dyno) so if you're trying to compare to old mate competing dyno you can tailor it to suit, most of the regular hub dynos here in Melb at least read very similar to roller dynos. This is just going from same car on multiple dyno days with no changes etc.

But ofc, given that - It's a tuning tool only, etc etc. Do a run on the same thing before and after for actual comparable results of any change blablabla. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 01/06/2022 at 10:32 AM, Kinkstaah said:

They can of course be configured every which way (like any dyno) so if you're trying to compare to old mate competing dyno you can tailor it to suit, most of the regular hub dynos here in Melb at least read very similar to roller dynos. This is just going from same car on multiple dyno days with no changes etc.
 

That's kinda funny, that kind of thing has been said in the past (SAEJ1349 correction results in lower readings than some others, all legit - just different effects) and while the hub dynos do read higher still usually, the difference is NOT as much as people like to convince themselves.   

It seems to be less of a thing that comes up now that hub dynos are being used more in Oz as well, people realising that it isn't automatically +100kw or whatever.  But yeah as you say, just a tuning tool afterall - you gotta use the data in context for tracking sensible expectations and improvements.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 31/05/2022 at 2:43 PM, Lithium said:

I have no idea how guys have been struggling with rolling dynos for so long and it's nice seeing Oz workshops etc

I suppose it was more so a speed constraint for shops, hub dynos take more time for you to load the car where as a roller you just hit the dyno brake drive the car on, a few straps and off you go. This means you can tune more cars in a day, and also not require additional help to load/strap cars. 

And yes I agree roller dynos don't really give you that accuracy (from a tuning perspective) as your tyre temperature, stickiness, etc. all contribute to distorting the output being measured. A good example is a car on say Hankook RS-4, you can do a back to back run and instantly lose like 20kW as the rubber heats up and sticks to the rollers. From a tuning perspective, imagine you were comparing two runs with more and less timing (bad example but you know what I mean) you'll be left scratching your head for a while why adding additional timing didn't provide the power yield you were expecting.

I have a S15 to re-tune soon (same one I did a while ago making 270kW on a GTX2860 Gen 2, it ate up an oil pump and the owner binned the motor). This time round has 9:1 comp and Tomei 256 Poncams (had the US junk in it before 258), I did advise the owner to go Kelfords but he was happy with the car overall and didn't want to change much. 

Also it will be going on the hub dyno, should be fun (first time for me)!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pulled down this log a few days ago, only had a chance to look at it now.

Interesting to see the change over point where the exhaust backpressure drops below the manifold pressure once the turbo comes on (4300rpm) and the manifold pressure continues to stay at about 0.68:1. Thing should be more fun once we get more EMAP vs. MAP.

 

image.thumb.png.514cf91f6e3fa18456eb9956599c9c79.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I hate to interrupt, there are enough internet rumors. I do build every single CORE in house that leaves my workshop including the one that you are using, as well as engineering work done on your turbo housings.  Reason been is I got shafted badly by a turbo joint 18 years ago when the business first started. I since trusted no one when comes to selling anything under my name, or I just don't touch them at all.
    • @MBS206 yeah it's a short run from battery in boot to pump
    • On a 20amp run, on "12V", if you're getting power for the pump direct from battery in the boot, you should be good on 12AWG. If the wiring is from up front, you want to get to a 10awg.
    • Got the speakers wired up in the doors today. I end up cutting the wire where I could access it and put new speaker wire on to run down to the crossovers and ran them to woofer and tweeter. I used the original speaker wire that went down to woofer to reuse the crimps.  Mate said he has a spot free to fab my intercooler pipes, dump and other bits and pieces on Monday so I started getting shit out and putting everything together that needs to go down with it. Got the rad in so he can fab the new top pipe to the hypertune hose as well. 
×
×
  • Create New...