Jump to content
SAU Community

RB26 Head questions


GarettH
 Share

Recommended Posts

RB26 Head questions

Hey guys, I have tried to do some research and I can not seem to find the right threads to answer my questions. I'm currently doing a rebuild on my RB26 head and have a few questions.

My current parts list I have is

Brian Crower single spring & titanium retainers,

Supertech valve guides,

Brian Crower +1MM Intake & +1MM Exhaust valves,

Kelford 280 10.5mm lift cams

And what I can not find is if it's acceptable to reuse the OEM Valve Keepers/Locks and what the OEM Camshaft Studs are rated to. Are these MUST have things when doing the head?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What collets does BC specify/recommend for their valves?  Are OEM compatible?  Check with your supplier.

Camshaft caps are held by bolts.  Any reason they won't work properly?  Are there even studs available?  The items being held only have rotary motion.  Not reciprocating, and there isn't the pressure of combustion trying to dislodge things.

If you establish a plan with your chosen engine builder things can potentially run smoothly as the parts are matched and fit for purpose.  There's been some very good discussion regarding RB26 cams/heads and what can be achieved with surprisingly mild cams combined with the right turbocharger system spec.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see Tomei does list studs.  The blurb generally indicates they are for fairly extreme lift and rpm eg 12mm lift, 10000rpm.

No real indication of what service this head is being put to.

I stand by comments regarding a discussion with the person chosen to build the thing.  Come up with a total combination fit for purpose.  "Maybe" these things are a useful/necessary item in OP's case.  Doubtful IMO though at a few hundred $$ not much in the overall scheme of a build.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far as my understanding the oem keepers/locks work I just couldnt find any information on them if these are parts that usually fail, and ya tomei makes camcap bolts but it just says for high lift.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Arp makes cam cap bolts and tomei puts then in very very expensive packaging lol

Do you have a part number for arp cam cap bolts? I literally cant find them anywhere, only ones i can find are the tomei.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any particular reason why your going BC valves springs and retainers? For a fraction more you can get a full supertech valvetrain package and dual springs.

 

Also, whats the intended use for the car as those cams are not ideal for a street car

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any particular reason why your going BC valves springs and retainers? For a fraction more you can get a full supertech valvetrain package and dual springs.
 
Also, whats the intended use for the car as those cams are not ideal for a street car


There's a few machine shops in Canada that have had good luck with Brian Crower springs/ retainers plus there spring specs like coil bind/seat height/spring pressure were closer matched to the Kelford springs that they recommend for there cams. And the stiffest single spring supertech offers is 60lbs which might be to soft. And trying to avoid dual springs and you need to bed the cams in with only 1 spring then add the 2nd spring later.

Cam choice is based off my turbo size and 900whp goal. Its a weekend street/drag car.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just do the cam cap studs. I did, I just felt it was a bit of insurance and a small cost given what the rest of the engine was worth

Crower are very quick to respond to emails so shoot them off an email about the other stuff. I am sure they will answer in no time at all and give you an answer that will be 100% reliable ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I do think it's weird I had it for 2 weeks then the issue came up out of nowhere and progressively got worse. I would've imagined changing everything in the ignition system would've resolved any ignition related misfires but still has the high rpm and idle misfires that seem unchanged. I would've thought if it was fuel related it would happen all the time unless it's the pump losing pressure when it gets hot. If it was the ecu I would think it would do it all of the time.  Something I noticed when I had it all apart was a pretty decent coating of oil in the J pipe coming from the throttle body. The weird thing about that is the pcv that goes to the intake is blocked off. So that has me wondering if the oil is coming from the turbo because that's the only thing that could get oil in there. This thing does sound like it spools like a mofo like I'm a former dsm guy and the only stock turbo I've ever heard spool this loud (to only go up to about 5psi) is on a diesel truck. And the recirculated bov is really loud too I had a TurboXS RFL and this thing is just as loud and being so low on psi seems a little weird. I don't know if any of this is or isn't related but just trying to make sure I'm not leaving any potentially helpful information out. 
    • So latest update. I replaced the ignitor with a jspec unit from enjuku. It felt a lot better at first although it is a little bit cooler of a day than it has been. Warming up didn't have as much misfire sputtering as before. Went on a 10m test drive. Felt good, a lot stronger though I was taking it easy on the boost. On the return trip started getting the cutting out at higher rpm again and was getting worse the longer I was driving. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Before turning the car off was getting the normal idle sputtering I was getting before.  So where I'm at now, entire ignition system has been replaced with upgraded components. Plugs still gapped at .8mm. Removed the fuel cap in case it was building too much reverse pressure I'm the tank, didn't help at all. Now I'm still on the same tank of gas the fuel treatment was in, I'm thinking if I can run that out and then refill with fresh 93 maybe  the treatment is too concentrated in some areas but doesn't explain that it only does it once the car is warm. I'm leaning towards fuel pump or injectors but if the injector was clogging I don't think it would make it shut off like it has but then fire right back up like nothing happened. So my current guess would be the pump. Without a fuel pressure guage no way to test or check it while it's running.  So that's kind of where I'm at. Need to start testing fuel components and ecu/wiring but I'm at a loss of what's the next logical step and procedure for testing it. 
    • @niZmO_Man thanks for that info, lucky I bought the gktech ones 🤙.
    • Never cheap out on brakes, tyres, suspension. I learnt the hard way at Oran Park lol
×
×
  • Create New...