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350 z disc


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350 z disc

All,

i am about to install the 350mm discs on my r34

the disc is quite bigger than the back metal cover / gaurd from the old 310 disc

i have straightened the edges and there is around 10-15mm clearence 

 

is that ok or should i remove it?

removing is pain as it will need the hub to come out so I was thinking of using angle grinder

 

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Removed the dust cover by cutting it

 

now I have a slight problem

i had 3 mm spacers for my old calipers and with new calipers installed it needs more clearence as it is catching

 

i can't source one now so will have to use washers in addition to my 3 mm spacer to lower the car

 

tomorrow I am going to buy a 5mm spacer and add it to my 3 mm thus 8 mm in total.

do i need to change the hub bolts to extend it out?

or can i fit a 10mm straigh away?

 

also i usually see the brake like having a bolt that goes into caliper however the kit supplied by alpha omega has an eye shape holder with bolt going into it

 

please could you check the pics below and let me know if I am making any mistakes?

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It's a bit late now, but no you don't need to cut off the backing plate; bending it back slightly so it clears the disc is sufficient. Plus that way you still have a stone guard for the rotor as nissan intended.

 

I don't really understand the brake line issue, but if you don't need them I can't see why the supplier would take a return/refund.

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So brake line looks good to you?

Problem is I am in the uk and supplier in au so postage cost is considerable and not worth returning.

Another issue is the alloy was not clearing the hub so I had to use my old alloys with lower offset

Is 10mm spacer too much on standard bolts?

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There is a VERY STRONG POSSIBILITY that there is no seat in the bottom of the new caliper's fluid inlet port to take the taper on the old braided line.  That would be one slid reason why they supplied you with banjo fittings.

If you don't know this stuff, you shouldn't mess with brakes.  There could be a horrible failure and you could put your car into a school.

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Can you elaborate?

Seat at bottom to do what?
Banjo has two holes which the fluid passes through and goes to the bottom of the bolt and then caliper

Length of banjo bolt is same as my current end fitting so not sure if i understood you



This is a link from their website which doesn't say anything about seat etc

http://alphaomegaracing.com/p/113/c/73/Z33/Goodridge/Evo-350mm-Brembo-Front-Brake-Lines-Braided.html

It does mention standard evo lines will be stretched yet mine is not evo and skyline lines
I did full side to side lock with no issues
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Grab the end of your old braided line.  Look very closely at the shape of the very end of the fitting on it.  You will see that it should match the shape of the bottom of the hole that it goes in in the original caliper.  Not the fact that it is round, the profile of the end.  That is the seat in the caliper.  The pipe nut that is around the end of the braided line forces the end of the braided line's fitting against the seat in the caliper.  That forms the seal to keep the pressure inside.

The banjo bolt WILL NOT do that.  The banjo bolt seals on the outside face of the caliper.  The banjo bolt will not go anywhere near the bottom of the hole in the caliper because if it did touch bottom then it couldn't seal up at the top of the hole.  Therefore, if the caliper is designed to take a banjo, then it very likely does not have the requisite seat profile in the bottom of the hole to take the conventional caliper fitting.

 

Oh, and I didn't say it in my first post but if you stack multiple spacers up you are asking for trouble.  We shouldn't have to tell you that.

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What you said does sort of make sense but wasn't something i was aware of

I don't understand how the round head pushing against the caliper forms a seal.
If anything fluid will need to pour of the seat to go to either side pistons and they will restricted

I will check the calipers tomorrow so i fully understand your point

We learn something new everyday

Re spacers yes I think I am going to get the ones with bolt on them like this

Problem is , it was catching fender with 3mm. It will be way worse with 10mm unless i roll it diy

http://4x4point.com.au/cart/images/categories/wheel_spacers.jpg

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I'm not sure what your beef about brake lines is. The suppliers say that the Evo brake lines (not Skyline or aftermarket lines) do not fit so have supplied longer ones. You say the existing Skyline ones were fine.

1. Your suppliers were not talking about Skyline lines but about Evo lines.

2. I'm pretty sure the original Skyline lines were not braided unless someone has fitted aftermarket lines. Did you explain this to your suppliers?

Either you are not accurately explaining the situation to us or to the suppliers or possibly both. Before complaining about getting ripped off you need to be clear about what you are saying....

Also look carefully at your wheels. It may not just be the offset but the profile and/or diameter of the wheels that do not have room for your bigger brakes.

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I'm not sure what your beef about brake lines is. The suppliers say that the Evo brake lines (not Skyline or aftermarket lines) do not fit so have supplied longer ones. You say the existing Skyline ones were fine.
1. Your suppliers were not talking about Skyline lines but about Evo lines.
2. I'm pretty sure the original Skyline lines were not braided unless someone has fitted aftermarket lines. Did you explain this to your suppliers?
Either you are not accurately explaining the situation to us or to the suppliers or possibly both. Before complaining about getting ripped off you need to be clear about what you are saying....
Also look carefully at your wheels. It may not just be the offset but the profile and/or diameter of the wheels that do not have room for your bigger brakes.



Agree as they didn't force me to buy it but their wording doesn't say it will fit skyline considering this is for skyline

Having said above , it could be due to the reason GTSboy explained which I have understood partly and flagged it for further research
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The standard R34 GTT brakes lines go from the body to the knuckle in a rubber lines then from the knuckle to the caliper in a metal line.

As KiwiRS4T said did you tell alpha omega you had aftermarket braided lines on your car already? Your car isn't in their workshop so they have no idea what is on your car, if you don't give them information they can't give you answers.

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yes, that's exactly how I'd do it. factory ones are a bit easier because they aren't straight, they turn back on themselves where they meet the strut.  With aftermarket ones they need to loop like you've done.

Just make sure the slack/extra is on the car side of the strut and the caliper to strut section is short because that's where it could foul on the wheel....one I did the other day was hitting the wheel weights as the wheel turned

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It is freezing cold here and after almost 10 hours of work on various bits, the f**king caliper is leaking

I can't work out from where though. It is dripping down as per the pic

I have asked someone to come and press pedal so i can try and work out where it is

Anyone with similar experience? What did you do?

It is 8:30 pm with ice on the grass :)
I don't know how i am still alive

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I can't see a pic, but leak points would be:

Most likely, where you attached the brake line. You do need to be careful overtightening banjos and copper washers, but check that first.

Next most likely is a bleed nipple is open. Perhaps even remove and reseat them.

Less likely is the cross over pipe at the bottom of the caliper, the caplier body itself, or past the brake pistons

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