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9 posts in this topic

Removing an rb25de/det + gearbox

Before I get any heroes, leave your negativity with your huge ego ay

what do i need?
- a simple but detailed explanation of how to remove an rb25de/det + gearbox. 

but anyway, hopefully this is an easy one for yous

I searched, read, and googled a lot. But, I haven't the right forums or a detailed enough explanation to run with. So, what im asking is if there is anyone on here that believes that they 'know' the best/right way of removing an rb25de/det engine + gearbox. 

This will a first time experiencing removing an engine plus box so the more detailed and well explained tutorial the smoother this process will go. I have watched a lot of videos, which has covered a lot of steps to remove an engine. Though It seems almost no one does it the same way, some people remove a lot of components where some only remove 'the basics'. Watching lots of different videos and reading stacks of information is pretty overwhelming. 

If someone could post a thread, find a thread, link me a thread/ video/ anything that you think would help it would be appreciated. 

what do i need?
- a simple but detailed explanation of how to remove an rb25de/det + gearbox. 

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Interestingly, I've never seen a good one on SAU, even though we have lots of DIY threads....please take detailed notes and pics when you do it.

First question, what space/equipment do you have? A hoist? An engine crane? A couple of jacks? First decision is whether the engine and box are coming out the top or bottom.

And second question; do you really need to remove the box or is leaving it in the car an option? Depends what you need to do....

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Hey Duncan, 

First question: I will be working in my shed, cement flooring, plenty of space. I have an engine crane, couple of jacks, jack stands, other tools to cover the job. Talked to a few friends and decided to take it out through the top. 

Second question: Everything from this car is going into another shell so unfortunately i have a lot to do aha. The new shell i have is pretty well stripped and needs almost every-part from my old car. 

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If you are removing everything including steering rack etc and its going into another body you could make like Duncan and drop the whole subframe :


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lol yeah that's why I was asking, but I think it would be a pain without a hoist.

if you're not using this shell again the key thing I'd do is remove the radiator support panel; cut it at both end with a recip saw, angle grinder etc. And take the front bar and reo off too, then you will have plenty of space to take out the engine and box together.  If you need that part of the car intact it is better to seperate the gearbox from engine if you are coming out the top.

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Then, from the top,

Remove the fuel pump fuse near driver's knee and crank the car a few times to clear the fuel lines. Then remove them from the fuel rail

take the battery out. undo positive first so no shorts will happen once it is off.

drain the radiator, remove the bottom of the shroud, remove the fan nuts, pull the fan out the bottom. undo the radiator hoses (easiest at the radiator) and overflow hose and pull the radiator out the top.

drain the oil (and front sump in a gtr) if you want, it can lead to less mess but expensive repairs if you forget....

remove the throttle cable

undo the intake piping to the intercooler (stock or front mount, either way)

undo all electrical wiring to the engine. this includes the injector plugs and any temp senders, CAS, earth at the front of the motor, connector to the coil packs (coils, coil loom and plugs stay on the motor), 02 sensors, alternator, starter motor, oil temp and pressure senders, engine sub loom (one plug to AAC, PCV, knock sensors etc). also the earth from the chassis to the engine mount and you may also have others on the exhaust manifold(s). First time doing this you'll miss some wires for sure so take it slowly and keep looking as the motor comes out

remove the vacuum lines to the carbon canister (almost forgot this one, lol )

remove the 2 water lines from the motor to the heater box in the cabin. connection is behind the dump pipe on the passenger side.

remove the power steering pump from the engine and leave it on the car. you may want to cable tie it to the car to keep it clear.

remove the a/c pump as well and leave it in the car (almost forgot this too :) )

make sure there is nothing between the rear of the head and the firewall (because later you will tilt the engine into this space)

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Then, underneath....

remove the exhaust 

(for anyone doing a gtr, also remove 6x p/s driveshaft bolts, and the d/s lower control arm ball joint (2 bolts to the lower control arm), then pop the d/s driveshaft out of the front diff, you'll need pry bars/big screw drivers and it can be a PITA)

Undo the engine mounts (bottom nuts, they come out with the engine)

Remove the driveshaft from the gearbox. On a GTR it’s 4 bolts but I think GTSt is a yoke that just slips out?

Put a jack under the rear of the gearbox and take the weight off the gearbox cross member. Then undo the 4 cross member bolts and lower the gearbox somewhat (as far as you can in a gtst, ie until the head is touching the firewall or on a GTR until the attessa line at the rear of the gearbox is about to be stretched).

If you are taking the box out as well remove the speedo sender plug (or cable in 32), reverse and neutral swtches. In a GTR you need to remove the attessa line at the rear of the box.

Next is possibly the trickiest 2. (You don’t need to do these if you are taking the engine and box out together)

Undo the starter motor bolts. Best way is to get a stubby 14mm spanner and a length of rope. Put the spanner on the top bolt and the rope around the other end of the spanner and pull down to crack the bolt, then undo it. Remove the bottom starter motor bolt and pull the starter out. If you skipped the battery disconnection/removal step you probably just set the car on fire.

Top engine bolts are the next trick. The easiest way is with 4x 1” long extension with a 14mm socket, going over the top of the gearbox. If you can’t do that you may be able to get to the top bolts with a spanner from above, or possible with a spanner from below if the motor is tilted back enough. It can be frustrating to crack those top nuts, especially if they’ve been there for 20 years.

Then undo all the other engine/gearbox bolts (no real trick here)

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Then, pick some lifting points for the motor. On the GTR I loop an old seat belt around the top radiator hose and across to a bolt on the rear right of the motor, GTST may be different, but the important thing is you need to be able to change the angle of the engine if it’s wrong, so the lifting loop must go from front to rear.

Connect the engine hoist (at full extension). You may bash the wheels, if so remove them and support the front of the car/subframe on engine stands (as low as possible).

Slowly lift the engine out, looking in particular for any wires you (or I’ve) missed. In your case, with the reo cut out it will be pretty easy because you only have to lift the sump over the sway bar and lower radiator support/intercooler.


Some general suggestions

Spray lots of degreaser, then wd40 on the main bolts as they’ve been there for 25 years. It can be really frustrating and you are likely to lose skin

Always use a full contact tool (socket or ring end of a spanner) when you can to avoid rounding things off, and try and pull towards you rather than push away as you're less likely to slip and mash skin

Old electrical contacts can be a bastard to remove. Avoid pulling on the wires. There is almost always a tab you have to unclip to undo the connector, undo it with a small flat screwdriver as you pull the connector apart

Keep all bolts separate and labelled. Sandwich bags are good, or even little boxes/spray can lids/whatever. Just keep each set separate and label them all to make re-assembly much easier.

 Always check carefully as you lift because there are about a billion connections between the car and chassis, and I'll have forgotten some for sure...

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