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2 posts in this topic
RB25/30DET forged parts-brand new
I really don't want to sell off my current engine build but I cannot justify it sitting around when my current Rb25 is still very healthy. This is my loss and your gain.
All parts are brand new and never run, only assembled waiting for more funds to get the spare head done up so I could bolt it on and swap everything across.
CP flat top rb30 pistons. 86.5mm bore size. $1000
Rb30 forged H beam rods with arp bolts. $500
Arp head studs. Never installed. $250
Arp main studs rb30. $300
King race main and rod bearings. Standard sized. $200
Rb30 block. Acid dipped, decked, bored to suit above pistons, genuine welsh plugs replaced, 1.2mm oil restrictors, main oil returns drilled to 10mm. $200
Rb30 crank, polished, balanced and wider oil pump drive fitted. $200
Dayco timing belt-suit rb30det #94407. $30
Permaseal multi layer head gasket. 87mm bore. 1.3mm thick #s244mlsr. $250
Permaseal standard headgasket. Standard bore. $30
Located in South Australia in the Adelaide hills but happy to freight for a little extra.
Pm me or reply here if you are interested.
Weapon X coil packs with M&W pro16b
Guys I currently have an M&W pro16b CDI unit powering denso CDI pencil coils,
coils are getting tired so instead of buying the same replacement denso coils, I've been told to get the weapon x equivelant coils
these are direct plug and play for my setup, coil over plug, and more powerful
im just abit confused as to which coil type I should order...
im guessing the XCOP- CDI coil is the one I need, but I'm not 100% sure
what's an INDUCTIVE coil ?
What's the difference between the 2 and which one will work best for ultimate performance with the M&W pro16b CDI module
R33 actuator issues
I'm having issues with my actuator on my 33 it keeps getting stuck open it never used to have this issue and I haven't changed anything for this problem to arise i can only assume its just seen better days even if I move it by hand it get stuck open halfway..
It's the stock RB25 actuator and I'm running 14psi with a boost tee on the stock turbo would i be best to settle for a 14psi actuator from turbosmart considering that's the set boost level that I always use ?
i have heard some people use a lower psi actuator but run higher boost which I can't quite understand but would I be right in saying that a 14 psi actuator for a 14psi boost level be better suited for my application?
Just wanted to check in with other members before I go spending the money
R34 GTR Intercooler choice for 350awkw
I've damaged the bottom 2 or 3 fins of my intercooler during a fight with a gutter, was wondering what you guys thoughts are in terms of replacements, have read a lot of threads on here with varying reviews so I though I'd start my own for my specific application.
I'm also aware that the stock one is quite capable of my requirements but like I said, it's damaged and needs replacing.
Car has -5's and was last dynoed at 343awkw.
Open to all suggestions from Aussie made, ARE, PWR, Plazmaman, to Japanese ARC, HKS, etc.
My mechanic is recommending ARC or HKS. I'm leaning more towards ARC as I really haven't read anything negative about them other than they're expensive, performance wise I've read they're solid.
ARC has a couple of different types but I can't read japanese so I don't know what the difference is:
There's an 073 and an 079, the 079 being quite a bit more expensive, so I'm assuming it's bigger, would greatly appreciate if someone could help out with dimensions as it's an expensive purchase and I want to make sure I'm buying the right thing!!!
I believe ARC have a wide core version as per http://www.visionr.com.au/. It would be nice if it was wide enough to hide the end tanks behind the front bar, purely for aesthetics. Also has anyone ever ordered through these guys?
Been away from the scene for a long time, would I still go through Streeter or Import Monster for quotes or is there a new kid on the block?