Jump to content
SAU Community

BNR32 Speedo showing exaggerated speed


Jenius
 Share

Recommended Posts

BNR32 Speedo showing exaggerated speed

Having an issue where my Speedo is showing that I'm going a lot faster than I'm actually going. 

For example if I'm doing around 70km/h it will read that I'm doing about 170km/h or sometimes it will read completely off the clock. This issue has been around for a while now where it was initially happening maybe 60% of the time and it is now occurring around 98% of the time. 

I've been having to rely on my PowerFC hand controller ever since....

Checked the Speedo cable at both ends and they appear to be fine and since it is clearly spinning still I'm wondering if there was something up with the actual dash cluster? I'm looking to replace it with another dash cluster for a test but could this issue relate more with the cable itself? 

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

when your doing 70 and its showing 170 does it sit at 170 or is it bouncing all over the place?

usually when your speedo starts jumping around its the cable as it can not rotate smoothly, it binds then skips forward and makes the needle skip forward. unsure how the speedo cables on these cars are made but previous fix I have done is just give it a good clean out with brake/carb cleaner and then a bit of lube/oil down it. when your manually turn it you may not be able to feel the bind but that doesn't mean its not there.

otherwise just replace it.

Edited by dave123456789
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It tends to sit at 170 in this case and occasionally it will bounce around a little. Also the display speeds tend to vary a fair bit. One day it'll show me I'm doing 140 and the next day it will go completely off the clock even though I'm doing the same speeds. 

I think I will look into replacing the cable in this case. It would have also knocked my odometer out with a higher reading too. :-(

Thanks

Edited by Jenius
Link to comment
Share on other sites

37 minutes ago, Jenius said:

It tends to sit at 170 in this case and occasionally it will bounce around a little. Also the display speeds tend to vary a fair bit. One day it'll show me I'm doing 140 and the next day it will go completely off the clock even though I'm doing the same speeds.

I think I will look into replacing the cable in this case. It would have also knocked my odometer out with a higher reading too. :-(

Thanks

if you have a spare cluster to test there would be no harm in giving that a go. in my experience though its usually the cable for speedo errors as they don't last forever.

unless you have had the cluster in and out heaps and possibly damaged something there but I doubt it.

does sound a bit weird it reads so much higher and fairly consistent and stable with its readings though. never had that before.

 

edit: forgot to ask, when it sticks at 170/140 or whatever, have you previously reached that speed, slowed down at the needle has stuck?

Edited by dave123456789
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, dave123456789 said:

if you have a spare cluster to test there would be no harm in giving that a go. in my experience though its usually the cable for speedo errors as they don't last forever.

unless you have had the cluster in and out heaps and possibly damaged something there but I doubt it.

does sound a bit weird it reads so much higher and fairly consistent and stable with its readings though. never had that before.

 

edit: forgot to ask, when it sticks at 170/140 or whatever, have you previously reached that speed, slowed down at the needle has stuck?

Won't be too hard to for me to find a spare cluster somewhere to test in this case. 

Have reached that speed a few times :10_wink: but I don't think its been the case of it getting stuck there. It's like the gauge is super sensitive so whenever I'm starting from 0-60km/h it jumps up really quickly from 0-170km/h.. 

 

8 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Also...is it the only gauge playing up? there could be some sort of earth problem

Yes it is only the speedo bit, everything else is working fine on my dash. I'm assuming the speedo is a traditional one just reading off the cable without any special stepping motor electronics in there? 

Edited by Jenius
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update so far is that I pulled out the cluster this morning and decided to test the sensitivity of the speedo using a small screwdriver and found it was already jumping up to read around 70km/h with just a few light turns. Is this normal? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Y'know what, after reading a topic on a 360kw build using a nistune (who ended up going LINK), im now considering a LINK over a nistune. The engine protection alone would probably be worth it. And id like to learn to tune so would be nice to have that safe guard. Which means i probably wont need a boost controller then, or the R35 MAF.  Becoming a bit of a blog now but oh wells. As mentioned previously, the goal is around 300kw, for a daily driver. Will be looking at fitting a highflow turbo or similar (something that doesnt require downpipes, manifolds etc to be changed out) when the current stock gives out or the money for it is there. 
    • Thanks guys. Are you meant to tighten the converter bolts through the starter motor hole? Think my plate between gearbox and engine is one piece. Im heading up there tomorrow.
    • Picked my tailshaft up yesterday arv!! Test fit it and because they've gone to a ford centre bearing and CV I had to modify the mounting bracket a little bit. 5mm of each side and she went up into position and fits well. It has a 1350 uni and flange on the gearbox end so it should be plenty strong!  Got stuck in this morning and started on the wiring mess. Cut out all the wires not required that go to the body connector and cut the engine harness out. Need to go through and work out which ones I need to keep and rewire into the new ecu. Should save a small amount of weight as well. I'd love to get in and rip the dash and everything out to completely remove wiring but cbf.  Next up was the power harness for alternator, starter etc. It has a few connectors from factory that run out of it. Cut it all apart and removed what was no longer required and put some new corro and taped it all back up and bolted it all back into place.  After that I worked out where I can mount the new flex sensor. Found a couple of factory bolt holes and drilled a new hole on the bracket to suit. Need to go get a few fittings and adapters tomorrow so I can keep going.   
    • Nah, im after the more newer looking, one with the OLED display
    • We revised the neutral wire instructions. The old way was wrong.  R34 gearbox change.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...