Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil - RB26


Deza3000
 Share

Recommended Posts

Oil - RB26

Hi Guys,

After a confusing couple months as a new GTR owner, trying to seek information on the best oil to use for daily (and occasional spirited) driving on a stock as a rock rb26, i ended up with the biggest headf**k of the century. 

Basically this is what i got:

Reputable tuner recommendations: Castrol Edge 10w-60
Reputable workshops: Motul x8100 or H-tech 10w-40 (or if you can afford it Nismo oil)
Nissan track enthusiasts: Motul 300v 10w 40 
Autobarn: Motul 10w-40, castrol edge 10w-60, Penrite 15w-50 racing
SAU Forums: All of the above + penrite hpr, royal purple, redline etc.... (keep in mind some of these topics were from 10+ years ago, im sure there have been advancements since then)

So i decided to do my own investegation and research on the oils and how they behave in my car. 

Firstly i eliminated the motul 300v/nismo oils from the list as it would have limited return on investment, especially if you change your oils every 2500-5000ks, in addition the 300v oils do not have the proper detergents for daily driving, From what i can see i believe the 300v is engineered for track use only.

I decided to try 3 most commonly recommended oils: Castrol edge 10w-60, Motul x8100 and Penrite 15 racing. All 3 oils possess marginal differences in terms of lubrication qualities, espeically with daily driving. Things i tested was oil pressure (normal and spirited driving), oil temperature (25 degree day), engine noise, oil burned.

Here are the results so far:

Motul x8100 10w-40: 
Oil temp: 79 degrees normal driving minimal traffic
Oil pressure: 2.2kg idle, 4kg @ crusing speeds 
engine noise (once warmed up): ?
Oil burned(end of 5000ks service): None 

Castrol edge 10w-60
Oil temp: 81 degrees normal driving 
Oil presusre: Same as above
Engine noise: Quieter lifter noise than motul - Viscosity or forumla? 
Oil burned: None

Penrite 15w-50 racing
Oil temp: 81 degrees
Oil pressure: Same as above
Engine Noise: same as Motul
Oil burned: None. 

Fuel economy was the same across all oils. I tried keep the tests as consistent as possible, obviously its not the most reliable of tests but it can be used as a good initial reference to newbie GTR owners like myself .. One thing i found strange was that the oil pressure was the same across all brands and viscosity, unless theres some oil pressure regulator system im unaware of ,it is puzzling.. That being said by the end of it, i came to the conclusion that all 3 are good as they provide similar results. I have kept the bottle of the oils i have tested and will probably get some samples professionally tested and post them here to see which oil would be best suited for a rb26. 

Edited by Deza3000
Grammar
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's plenty of information in the current oils thread if you haven't already had a read.

My thoughts are that you can use any group IV oil and buy whichever is on special as some can be nearly double the cost (Motul vs Castrol etc)... I'm skeptical that you would find a major difference between any of the big brands in terms of wear/performance. Fuel economy is going to be similar with most oils, it's not a factor even worth considering as the improvement will be 2-3% at best. 

In saying that, I wouldn't mind seeing the tests. But what would you use as an indicator for the 'best' oil?

Edited by owen1r
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep read the forums, everyone has their own opinions and different modifications (i.e. built motor) done to their car, which led me to believe that there is a reason they chose a particular oil brand for their car. That being said, i agree it was all the same anyway. 

I used the term "best" very loosely, coming from an evo, most drivers use similar spec oil (10w-40 for street, 50 weight for track), where as the GTR, oil recommendations were very broad, and reading up on oil starvation issues i was getting rather paranoid as to whether i chose the right oil for my car, hence why i went my own way and tested the top 3 recommended oil. Seeing as castrol edge 10w-60 is always on sale, ill probably just opt for that from now on. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use Motul 300V and unlike apparently most of you I change it after 20,000km (including track days). I have sent samples for oil analysis and the results have suggested there is no reason to change it more often.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I covered the range of scenarios with running Penrite Premium 5 (5W-60) muhuhahaha. But that oil harder to find these days.

I also ran Racing 10 (10W-40), which overheated (twice) on the track. Oil held pressure fine the whole time, so I use Racing 10 now on my Subaru as well (buy a few bottles when on special).

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

54 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

I use Motul 300V and unlike apparently most of you I change it after 20,000km (including track days). I have sent samples for oil analysis and the results have suggested there is no reason to change it more often.

Got those oil analysis results by any chance? Wouldn't mind a look.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use Motul 300V and unlike apparently most of you I change it after 20,000km (including track days). I have sent samples for oil analysis and the results have suggested there is no reason to change it more often.

Same here but i do mine at 10k ish instead of the 3-5 k change. . And that's also on semi synthetic and not fully :)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/6/2017 at 10:50 AM, KiwiRS4T said:

I use Motul 300V and unlike apparently most of you I change it after 20,000km (including track days). I have sent samples for oil analysis and the results have suggested there is no reason to change it more often.

I like that you dont throw away expensive oil that's in good condition. There should be more of this good sense.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, MrStabby said:

I like that you dont throw away expensive oil that's in good condition. There should be more of this good sense.

yes, but "if in doubt, throw it out!"

without doing an oil analysis, it's just guessing. While I appreciate OP's effort to bring some science through looking at oil temp, pressure and lost oil, that is really only scratching the surface. On the other hand, an oil analysis is a hell of a lot cheaper than an unnecessary change of these expensive oils.

BTW, for road use....use anything and change it often. No point spending $100 on oil changes when it's not getting tested at all.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



×
×
  • Create New...