Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


RB26 Oil return question


GarettH
 Share

Recommended Posts

RB26 Oil return question

Hey guys, Ive read the oiling thread and still have a few questions as I havent be able to find many pictures. I have already had my cylinder head oil returns drilled, tomei oil pump, tomei oil restricter, tomei extended and baffled sump. All i have left is my catch can setup.

I've seen the diagrams but not many pictures of people actually running it with both valve covers vented and the 2x sump vent connections. So id like to see pictures of how you guys routed the lines. Since I dont want lines running right across my valve covers. So where do you guys place your catch can?

My ABS is deleted so I'd like to put my catch can there as i can run 2x -10 straight from my valve covers to the catch can. Ive read a few opinions but has anyone welded the 2 AN fittings on the exhaust side of the sump rather then intake side? That way i wouldnt have to run 2x -10an lines completely around my engine?

When the sump has been vented is it still recommened to do the rear head oil drain and baffled cam covers? Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What size Tomei oil restrictor? I've only seen 1.5 which are a bit big.

Its hard to see how you can run lines from your cam covers without crossing them.

I wouldn't recommend putting your catch can above the exhaust. And you don't want to put the sump fittings on the exhaust side or use a rear head drain.

Read the oil control thread again.

Baffled cam covers can't do any harm.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you drilled the block oil returns to 10mm? Have you enlarged the rear right hand block return passage and chamfered the edges on the return passages? Ill be venting my new engine from oil cap to sump but i have large clearancea for a gas shot in the future. If you are planning on caning the crap out of it i suggest it. And re read the oil control thread 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, 33GTRV said:

Have you drilled the block oil returns to 10mm? Have you enlarged the rear right hand block return passage and chamfered the edges on the return passages? Ill be venting my new engine from oil cap to sump but i have large clearancea for a gas shot in the future. If you are planning on caning the crap out of it i suggest it. And re read the oil control thread 

I have not done them personally buy my engine builder said he did all that. I mainly wanted to see where people mounted there catch cans to run 2 lines to cam covers + sump. And I know a rear drain on the head is useless if you don't vent the sump as the crank pressure won't allow it to drain back. But thought if its vented through catch can it might work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, GarettH said:

I have not done them personally buy my engine builder said he did all that. I mainly wanted to see where people mounted there catch cans to run 2 lines to cam covers + sump. And I know a rear drain on the head is useless if you don't vent the sump as the crank pressure won't allow it to drain back. But thought if its vented through catch can it might work.

If you have read the oil control thread you haven't understood it. Read it again (just the last half if you like).

The rear head "drain" is useless under any circumstances. If you Google you will find dozens of pics of engines with catch cans. I ran a hose from one cover to a "T" on the other and then one to the catch can (plus 2 sump breathers).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • VP race fuel like VP 109 ron unleaded is a waste of money compared to E85. Just go flex fuel setup so you can run on pump unleaded or E85 all without draining tanks or switching tunes. You go VP race fuel you will have to change tune when using it, then change back to a pump unleaded tune. VP109 for example will support about the same boost and timing increaes as E85, but it requires the afr's to be a lot leaner than E85 but richer than pump unleaded.
    • Whats your budget? Maybe call Nispro in QLD for quote - they build a lot of VQ and have a turbo kit in development - but id say at least 20k to do it right - oh actually maybe do LS swap will be cheaper but....hmm  im a purist - so id rather stick to VQ35DE or whats the point lol.... just my opinion - do what u want. its your car  
    • Ok sorry I should rephase my question. But good answer haha.  How can I make 400whp that isn't using nitrous. 
    • dyno run would be on VP race fuel or e85 / e98, E85 is not easily accessible by me. Closest pump is 30 min in a direction I do not travel. So while I will go out to get it. It will also get pump gas 93 octane is highest avilable in US so overall power will be down if mix fuels  e50, e30, e10 ect 
    • Cheapest way? Spray. A wet kit with 200hp jets could be up and running for less then $2000. Then its about $16 per pound when its time to refill your bottle.   
×
×
  • Create New...