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Budget CA S13 Track Car


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On 8/27/2021 at 9:04 AM, robbo_rb180 said:

Good effort getting it out. Always good to look how everything looks after a few years. 

The Nissan auto is good enough to daily. Had a look at those videos and it looks like the zf is a great thing for track, will look to see if there is a way to have a "clutch" as still want the ability to go drifting. 

Ahh I get you now, from what I understand, the drift cars all go DCT for that reason. 

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On 27/08/2021 at 8:40 AM, ActionDan said:

...Engine bay is filthy and I've learned alot about what I would and wouldn't do again mods/repair wise on this engine seeing how some stuff has held up or not.  ...

 

Well the good news, is after putting everything back clean next time, as a track only car it will be much nicer to work on in the future (not always true with rally cars, and definitely not for dirt rally cars)

The other thing I (re)learn every time I take the engine out, is that what looked simple and good for a mod (eg oil cooler line routing or additional wiring) can be a disaster when you go to take the engine out and realise you have gone under/over/around the same part you need to remove, and you don't have a connector to pull it apart....

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On 8/27/2021 at 9:29 AM, Duncan said:

Well the good news, is after putting everything back clean next time, as a track only car it will be much nicer to work on in the future (not always true with rally cars, and definitely not for dirt rally cars)

The other thing I (re)learn every time I take the engine out, is that what looked simple and good for a mod (eg oil cooler line routing or additional wiring) can be a disaster when you go to take the engine out and realise you have gone under/over/around the same part you need to remove, and you don't have a connector to pull it apart....

Hah, this wasn't an issue thankfully as I was always ultra anal about routing, but there were some remnants of street car life to deal with.

I ended up having to just cut one of the rubber lines from the sandwich plate too, I could not get the hose off the press on fittings for the life of me. 

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ECU and loom out which included removing the SAFC2 from the loom, which was annoying. 

Heater box etc out for easy access, don't think it will be fun to put back in as the little rod assembly fell off so I'll have to see how that works. 

I remembered I removed the heater core years back (for weight savings yo) and now I'm wondering if I should source another and reinstall for de-fog or something but I've never had an issue in that respect, thoughts?

Who here has made their own loom? I'm on the fence about whether I make one or buy one as I don't think I wanna use the factory SR one. 

Just need to pop the shifter back in the box, give it all a quick degrease, split the box from the engine then start to arrange shipping (unless he wants the brakes, we'll see). 

Those dollies are proving quite helpful to I've decided. 


 

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I rewired about 60% of my GTR when I put the haltech and smartwire PDM in.  I did remove a fair bit but it is amazing how much you still need for a road legal car (lights, windows, main power distribution/battery etc). I know the S13/SR is a lot simpler but there is still a hell of a lot to it.

I enjoyed the process and learning but I don't think the outcome is any better than a new factory or premade loom.  And buying must be a lot cheaper once you consider off off costs like specialist tools, connectors, I used milspec wire, needed a labeller, specialist heatshrink, etc etc all adds up.

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done my engine loom as went wire in and wanted to learn how to make a quality loom. Not cheap especially if you factor your own time as Duncan mention.

Done a few body looms for friends and not worth the effort if what you have works keep it just depin what  your not using.

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Cheers, body loom stays, it was just the engine loom. A mate of mine did his and reckons the loom itself was only $250 worth of materials etc but that he easily spent 24hrs of time on it (and many beers). Said it could be done in 4-8hrs if he wasn't f**king around. 

Can't see how it would be "that" cheap unless he had some of the tools etc already. I've got some decent DC gear (for solar), but all for bigger stuff (crimpers, strippers etc) nothing for pinning/de-pinning or working on really small stuff. 

Hmm

Gave the top end of the engine a wipe over/tidy up last night and will degrease/pressure wash the bottom half ouside on the weekend, wanted to do the top by hand to avoid issues with plugs etc.

Got my oil filter relo and gearbox mount off t and started talking to the buyer about the logistics of freighting it all which I think will happen next week.

If I get time this week I'll pull the seats and get the cage out so it can be tidied up and sold then I can start thinking about dropping the car off for the cage work. 

I know I will go to front and rear towers, but I'm on the fence about triangulating the towers to the dash bar/firewall area as it apparently causes issues with the wiper setup and can be a pain for brakes/plenum etc etc. 

I was thinking maybe forgo that, but modify the castor arm mounts Nismo style, boxed and with the rod between them to support the bottom of the chassis rails and leave the strut brace to take care of the tops as best it can? As that's something I can DIY I reckon. 

NISMO Power Brace System-2 for Nissan Silvia (180SX / S13) - Garage88
 

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