S13 Sprint/Time Attack Style Build

[No Crust Racing]

Daily drivers are due for services, so got a start on that and used the hoist for the first time and man does it beat rolling around on the concrete. 

I'd would like it if it locked out at the highest setting though, the 1900mm lift is a bit deceiving as you need to drop it down another 50-100mm or so to sit it on the last safety pins, I assume you are supposed to always come down to the safeties but I might email the manufacturer just to be certain or I'll wear slimmer sold shoes and not my work boots. 

Got myself a set of 4 dollies for the Silvia also so I can move it around easily, especially after engine out, and also because storing it on them will make it easier to get the hoist arms under it. 

See how easy it is to move the car on those soon enough, I've read very mixed things about these. 

Chased up local fabricator who is talking 7-10k for a cage, am shopping around a little more as I do think I can get something good enough for me for a bit less coin. 

 

[No Crust Racing]

Had a play with the dollies last night, sounds creepy when you phrase it like that. 
 

- You will need to put a reasonable amount of force on the car to get it moving initially, after that it will roll along without too much strain. A second person would make the initial start much easier also. 

- Be careful where you place your hands as you can dent panels with the initial shove given the force needed. I found good success using the corners of the quarters near the boot and opening the door and using the b pillar to get some movement happening. 

- Setting the direction of the castors before changing directions will help quite a bit, even if you only do the outer 2 castors on 2 dollies, it all helps reduce the effort to change directions. 

- Rocks on the floor were only a minor issue, I expected the rocks on my shed floor dragged in from the treads on 4wds to stop the dollies instantly, but they seemed to manage better than I expected. Similarly, the cuts in the concrete were not an issue nor was the grit in my floor sealer. 

- Despite a very level floor and fairly square placement of the dollies, the car always tracks a little off straight when moving it around, as in you want to go straight ahead but the car will be going forward and slightly left etc. 

The other benefit I've found is that the height of the car off the floor, something I couldn't find a spec on anywhere, is enough to allow a 100mm pad height hoist arm to slide under the car without the use of ramps or blocks, which is very handy. 

Assembly is very simple, but I couldn't find a torque spec for the nuts so just did a few ugga-duggas and left it at that.

Bit more practice will help.

 

[No Crust Racing]

Seems the a Level 3/National cage is required by AASA for pretty much any decent event so that's what I'll aim for. 

Found another local fabricator who has is well recommended and he seems on par with Brown Davis in the 5-6k mark for that type of cage with a few extra's as I want to pick up the front and rear towers as a minimum. Would ideally like to reincofrce/support/tie in the rear subframe mounts and possible triangulate the front towers back into the dash bar/firewall area but I hear it can cause issues with wiper setup. 

Have also been told to consider brake master/booster arrangement and if I want pedal box, which I wouldn't mind for the front/rear brake bias adjustment but where do you stop as it just seems to snow ball lol 

[No Crust Racing]

So I commented on a WTB casually, and now it seems I have a buyer for the engine/box/ecu package so i've started removing it last night. 

Have started an FB page for my mates and I have some fun with our builds moving forward

https://www.facebook.com/No-Crust-Racing-105366271868243/

[No Crust Racing]

Spent some more time last night. I'm about 4hrs in and I thought I'd have it done by now, doesn't help having never done it before I guess but youtube builds make engine removal look fast lol 

It's not hard but it's time consuming. I cannot get over how awesome it is to have a hoist. 

Can't get the PS pump line off, the lower section just rotates with the bolt with no room/angle for a spanner so a mate has suggested you either pinch the line to hold it steady and get purchase or remove the bracket to get 24mm on it. 

Couldn't get the rubber lines from the oil cooler relocator to the sandwich plate off either, had to unthread one end from the thermostat and the just cut the other one in half, because i wont be using those lines again, nor will i ever use push on hoses like that for oil again. Painful to work with. 

Next step is shifter out, then prop the box, drop the mount and unbolt engine mounts and start removing. 

After that will be feed engine loom through firewall and remove ECU and it'll be your classic half dismantled roller



 

[No Crust Racing]

Engine buyer was also interested in brakes so I've been looking at what I do to determine what I can sell off, talking to lots of mates/reading forums etc and common theme is careful you don't go too big as they have a tendency to lock up easily on S13. 

I was looking at evo 6-9 front caliper and the 350mm evo x rotor with the alphaomega mounting kit and keeping the R33 twin piston rears but with bigger rotors on 5 stud hub.

Even alphaomega are now offering a "WTAC" version now that uses the 20mm thick 370z rear rotor up front instead as they couldn't get the 32mm thick job hot enough for sprint style driving. 

I would like more hot laps than 1 at a time, but all interesting info. 

I kinda settled on 350z track Brembo set (far cheaper than GT-R, like 1100-1400 for a full set) which is like 324x30mm front and 300mm rear and I'll run the BM57 also

But... like R34 it's 14mm mount so either drill the hub (gktech says there is plenty of meat there but the idea still makes me nervous) or sleeve the caliper like I had done with the CA crown wheel to suit the S15 diff and on the rear Gktech make a caliper mounting bracket to weld on - pics at bottom of their page.

350Z rear Brembo to S chassis/R32/R33 Weld on caliper bracket (gktech.com)

Surely that would be enough for me with good pads/rotors given I'm not endurance racing? I still have brake ducts. Otherwise The evo caliper and rotor up front is the other bang for buck option. I can't justify the dollars on a new BBK, I'd like to ideally spend less than 2k or as close it as possible. 

 

[No Crust Racing]

Oh and HGT now have this which makes my balls tingle... 

SR20 to 8HP70 adapter kit (BMW) – HTG tuning (htg-tuning.com) 

[robbo_rb180]

the brembos are definitely enough for s chassis, never have an issue with my set on the cars. Some cooling ducts to the fronts and they will be good for longer sessions

That hgt kit is the way to go now, garage7 has gotten simon michelmore's 86 2jz  conversion sorted. 
https://fb.watch/7CL_d4rz1v/

[No Crust Racing]

That looks like a sequential shifter? 

They are also using a DCT not  ZF8HP.

I see it's a jinx shifter, will take a look. 

 

Edited August 26, 2021 by ActionDan

[Duncan]

324s will be enough for sure, if you have troubles just move to more aggressive pads. I've only ever run 324 on the GTR.

[No Crust Racing]

Awesome, thanks Duncan.

 

We'll see what caliper sets come up when the time comes. 

 

One step at a time :D

[robbo_rb180]

On 8/26/2021 at 1:35 PM, ActionDan said:

That looks like a sequential shifter? 

They are also using a DCT not  ZF8HP.

I see it's a jinx shifter, will take a look. 

 

how do those auto's handle track duties? 
DCT is the way to go as I found the auto "different" to drive 

[No Crust Racing]

Well apparently, look at Johnny Ding on YT and his a90 supra with a lesser version box tracking it regularly. 

DCT is much more $$ and more complex to repair/maintain/upgrade. 

 

[No Crust Racing]

I think the difference is the Torque Convertor Clutch in the ZF, that's what separates it from a normal auto AFAIK so far. 

[robbo_rb180]

On 8/26/2021 at 6:40 PM, ActionDan said:

Well apparently, look at Jackie Ding on YT and his a90 supra with a lesser version box tracking it regularly. 

DCT is much more $$ and more complex to repair/maintain/upgrade. 

 

will have a look, the dct would be more for the "clutch" ability for me. I've been looking at it as I know my standard gearbox isn't going to hold up and figured may as well upgrade it with a rb25 box from my sil80 and put the dct behind the rb 

[No Crust Racing]

Adaptor kits exist for zf... Do it....

[robbo_rb180]

Already got an automatic nissan, don't really want another.

[No Crust Racing]

On 8/26/2021 at 7:29 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

Already got an automatic nissan, don't really want another.

 Yeah but it's a Nissan automatic, hardly a fair comparison 😂
 

[No Crust Racing]

Removed shifter, removed last power steering line, removed engine mounts (may have damaged a thread on one, will run a die over it and see) dropped gearbox mount and started to remove the lot, then went back and removed clutch slave line I forgot..😅 before easing her out. 

And that was that, 32yrs of life in that shell, 146 or so thousand k's, maybe 20 track days/events (with me), and now it sits on the floor. 

Need to split the box, remove engine loom and ECU from the car then lay out all the pieces to discuss with buyer. I'm going to hit it with degreaser and a pressure wash before I ship it too I think.

Engine bay is filthy and I've learned alot about what I would and wouldn't do again mods/repair wise on this engine seeing how some stuff has held up or not.  

[robbo_rb180]

Good effort getting it out. Always good to look how everything looks after a few years. 

The Nissan auto is good enough to daily. Had a look at those videos and it looks like the zf is a great thing for track, will look to see if there is a way to have a "clutch" as still want the ability to go drifting.