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9 posts in this topic

R33 Haltech Wideband Install

Hi All, 

I'm looking at getting a Haltech wideband sensor, controller and gauge for my R33 GTST so I can keep an eye on my car closer. In particular, this kit from Golbeys https://www.golebysparts.com.au/parts/view/2994/386/can-expansion-products/can-wideband-controllers/ht-059960-wbc1-single-channel-can-wideband-gauge-kit because it is a CAN product and can tie in with my existing Haltech Platinum Pro ECU (i.e. not just a gauge)

Would I need to do anything out of the norm to set it up? I've read about adding it to the ECU in ECU manager but will that cause any issues with the existing tune? I would like to have the gauge and the ability to log without affecting anything already configured. 

In addition to the above has anyone used this on here before and have they had any issues?

Cheers!

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Better off just getting a standalone unit and feeding the 0-5v output to the ECU if you want a reading from a gauge.

Also works out cheaper than the whole Halal box and sensor. Yes you're relying on a 0-5V output and input scaling however of you add a time delay before it starts to read it isn't too bad.

There should be one spare AVI on the ECU, if not buy the Auxiliary harness which gives you an additional 4x inputs.  Just splice a 0-5 output direct to the loom and feed back the sensor ground to the wideband's sensor ground. 

Then hop into ECU Manager, hit F4 and select the correct input vs. type. Once you've done that, go and adjust the linear scaling. Use what is documented in your wideband' manual. e.g 0.2V is 8afr and 4.7v is 22 (made up those numbers, they're wrong).

Then you can enable wideband feedback and engine protection too :)

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Hmm, I'll head outside and look at the ecu shortly but if I were to get another WBO2 + the AUX harness it would be almost the same as getting the haltech wideband kit :( 
I definitely like the idea of not having to buy the Haltech kit though - Do you recommend any particular WBO2s if I go that route?

Cheers 

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PLX Wideband or AEM UEGO 

Cheap and good, both use the newer LSU 4.9 sensor too.

Both have 0-5v output as well.

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Bit the bullet and went with the Haltech for simplicity. Out of curiosity does anyone have recommendations for power connections? It needs constant 12V not switched - I'm not sure if it matters but it could be run to the boot where the battery is (being such a long run) or is there somewhere better? 

Cheers

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If its closer, why not use the positive terminals in the relay box in the engine bay?

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12 hours ago, 89CAL said:

If its closer, why not use the positive terminals in the relay box in the engine bay?

Ended up running it to the back instead, it was a straight run and probably only 1-2m longer if that.

Thanks for the help guys!

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