Jump to content
SAU Community

Racepace built Nissan Stagea RS4 manual 300kw

Scotsman
 Share

Recommended Posts

Scotsman Veteran

Scotsman

Posted
Posted

Racepace built Nissan Stagea RS4 manual 300kw

For Sale $17,500

 I’m taking expressions of interest as i'm deciding if I should part out my car or sell as is.

 The Car:

Modified 2000 Nissan Stagea RS4 WGNC34 manual (converted), personal vehicle owner of Racepace Motorsport.

I have owned this vehicle since 2009, it has 220,000km on the chassis 51,000km on the engine.

The chassis is straight, but is showing age with car park scratches, paint chips and worn interior parts, as well as other small annoyances like clunks behind door trims on big bumps, but generally in great condition for its age and presents well.  I have since purchased another daily and need to decide what to do with this car. The Stagea drives well, handles quiet reasonably, has plenty of torque and has been super reliable for me. I have used on three occasions as a tow vehicle for the track GTR and it performs well. The engine bay looks standard enough to pass roadworthy and satisfy road side inspections.

The car is making a reliable 290kw on 98 (stock piping is holding this back a little) and I have had it on E85 as a little test making 340kw at the wheels. Piping could be changed to increase the peak power output if desired, but this car was built for the torque and mid power and I wanted the bay to look stockish and see how far we could push the OEM manifold and piping etc. Plus I didn't want any extra attention if pulled over. Car is located in Ferntree Gully / Bayswater, VIC

I have found it difficult to come up with an evaluation / sale price, as I appreciate the market value is low and will never reflect the price of the modifications.

So my thoughts were to come up with a list of all the parts and come up with prices I think are reasonable on the second hand market as per below.  I feel I would be happy to let the car go as is for $17,500, but if I can't get this, then it will be worthwhile to part it out.

 

Here is a list of the modifications and my evaluation:

Racepace built RB30/25 with neo head, built in 2009, this is built to our stage 1 package with forged pistons, RB30 OEM crank and rods, N1 oil pump, new thermostat, full head recondition, Racepace custom bearings, full balance, precision assembly etc, with sump adaptor, diff ratios are C34 auto 4.08:1 $7500

Racepace 3.5" exhaust with 3.5" CAT and two Racepace 3.5" mufflers and 3.5" dump / front pipe $2200

Garret GT35 ball bearing with smaller FG XR6 compressor wheel, 0.82A/R internally gated turbine housing and 14PSI actuator $850

Shockworks custom coilovers (we have tried multiple valving codes and spring rates to get the ride optimal) $1200

Wheels and Tyres - 18" Enkei RPF1 with ATR sport tyres $1500

Brembo F40 330mm two piece front brake kit $1700

Blitz Intercooler kit (stagea version) $250

NIStune RS4 ECU $200

Rescaled stock pink 3pin AFM to Z32 Scale $200

R35 GTR fuel injectors $150

Split fire NEO coils $400

3+ tonne tow bar with hayman-reece hitch $450

Nismo rear GT LSD - 2 way (modified by Racepace to be acceptable on the street - softened off) $850

Registrable and complied Manual Rolling shell $2500 with:
GTR 5 speed, Racepace transfer case modification
Walbro 255 fuel pump + relay setup
Nismo clear side indicators
Mongoose M80 alarm
Sony MP3 / ipod head unit, alpine amp
Hardrace rubber rear camber arms

(plus more) 

Total estimated parts valuation: $19,950+

IMG_4117.JPG

IMG_4118.JPG

IMG_4119.JPG

IMG_4120.JPG

IMG_4121.JPG

IMG_4122.JPG

IMG_4123.JPG

IMG_4124.JPG

IMG_4125.JPG

IMG_4126.JPG

IMG_4127.JPG

IMG_4128.JPG

IMG_4129.JPG

IMG_4131.JPG

IMG_4132.JPG

IMG_4133.JPG

IMG_4134.JPG

IMG_4135.JPG

IMG_4136.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sleepergm
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Sleepergm · Posted

      Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • Murray_Calavera
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
    • Sleepergm
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Sleepergm · Posted

      Great discussion guys. I just have coil overs in my car right now. Ride is pretty stiff and everything feels very precise and accurate when hitting the corners. I started off with a high level and kept specimen.   the only item I feel I might need to adjust is my camber with control arms or a kit as I might want to tuck in my rims more so there is no rubbing. Otherwise I have not thought too much into it as quite happy with the setup. I think the bushings are all good still.    My motor is currently out now but I have got a nismo front strut bar to install. So that should help with body roll in front.    added a photo of what I started with before the modding or let’s say modernization of parts started. 😂
    • Doug 98 R34 GTT
      Manual Shifter slightly bounces/moves/vibrates when accelerating/deaccelerating

      By Doug 98 R34 GTT · Posted

      Thank you both, much appreciated. Yes, 6k miles, not a typo lol. The underside, engine bay, engine, trunk, interior, etc., look great and super clean, has all the splash guards too. Not sure if you can expand the photos, but the dash pic shows the ODO. She looks brand new, inside and out, even has the original Nissan TV/DVD/Nav head unit; still thinks it's in Tokyo haha! I used to own a '94 MKIV Supra, sadly sold it years ago, but wow I love the Skyline so much! The R34 gets SO much attention here since they just became legal to import last year.  
    • GTSBoy
      Manual Shifter slightly bounces/moves/vibrates when accelerating/deaccelerating

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm going to have to call shenanigans on the 6000 miles. There haven't been any R34s with 10000km on the ODO since the mid 2000s. Photos of the pedal rubbers, seats, carpets, etc required to even consider the possibility. At that many miles the underside should look almost completely new. The movement of the gear stick is likely to be 100% normal. As Duncan said, the differences from an auto may be surprising. It is a mechanical thing, not an electro-hydraulic isolation device.
×
×
  • Create New...