Which should I go with GTX2863, 2530, or 2860-5

[frakzz]

13 hours ago, Piggaz said:

BW EFR 8374/1.05.

Be on 500 rpm earlier than -5's and make more power everywhere.

In our course, two of my salaries are out. This is very expensive for me at the moment. Are there alternatives?

[No Crust Racing]

There's no cheap path to 600-650rwhp that doesn't include lag. 

You can make that with older tech/second hand singles but it will be laggy. 

If you want response AND power, you will pay for it. 

[frakzz]

what is better GTX or SXE?

Edited November 10, 2017 by frakzz

[Piggaz]

Would take a GTX over an SXE.

[Nismo 3.2ish]

2 hours ago, Piggaz said:

Would take a GTX over an SXE.

Not if you rearrange the SXE!

[Mick_o]

5 hours ago, Nismo 3.2ish said:

Not if you rearrange the SXE!

Haha this man always offers the best advice! 

You taken your little blue pill Pete? ?

 

Yes ball bearing over Journal all day. Especially if its only sees street duties ?

Edited November 11, 2017 by Mick_o

[frakzz]

my new compressor wheels weigh about 60g, and my old wheels weigh 33g, I think the problem is exactly this.

[Piggaz]

So the billet wheels are heavier? 

So the GTX 60 mm is 60 grams and the -5 wheel is 33 grams? 

 

[frakzz]

this wheel is not a billet, when tuning the turbines said that these wheels lighter billet by 10%, however write that the billet wheels weigh 45g. Who made the tubes said that they had the same wheels gtx 63, they weigh 62g, (original 3712-0001 GT28 47.10/63.40mm 11+0 blade weigh 63g) and billet weigh gtx2863 50g, how many weigh gtx2860 can only guess, presumably 55-60g. So my 2510 hs wheels are the easiest. Rotors as I understood the same. Now I think what to do to put a billet or look for wheels from the GT2860. I looked everywhere, only these look like my wheels https://www.ebay.com/itm/120959146348?ul_noapp=true, but he says that they weigh about 60g, I do not understand what's the matter

My wheels were damaged and not balanced

Edited November 14, 2017 by frakzz

[frakzz]

can my scales lie of course, I will weigh on others

[Mick_o]

Interesting Thanks for sharing Frakzz! ?

I have always been skeptical about billet wheel vs cast weights. A lump of billet is always going to be more dense hence heavier. Even if its made from a lighter material it seems?

[No Crust Racing]

I thought it was well known that billet wheels were about strength for high boost and cheaper prototyping and production costs?

Recall having read a bit about the myth of billet = faster spool through reduced weight.

[frakzz]

the scales were in the wrong mode) my wheels weigh 50g each. Spool comes on 6500 and more 1.4 does not go up. Disconnected the solenoid and muffled the tube. Actuators were fixed. nothing has changed. I do not know what to do next, I think to turn the intake gear, if it does not help to return the wheels GT.

Can anyone have any thoughts why might it be so?

Edited November 15, 2017 by frakzz

[Mick_o]

1 hour ago, ActionDan said:

I thought it was well known that billet wheels were about strength for high boost and cheaper prototyping and production costs?

Recall having read a bit about the myth of billet = faster spool through reduced weight.

Correct sir. A solid lump of billet being CNC machined is stronger which is why they can run the higher pressure ratios they do more reliably. Increases production and elimalimates inconsistencies you'd get with castings. 

What Dan said also cements alot of my dribble on the "twin guys" that wanna do these billet stock housing turbos. 

These billet wheels require "higher boost" to achieve the extra power they can produce yes?

How can this compressor generate the extra boost required if that other lil wheel that comes into contact with the exhaust gases up the back cant spin that billet wheel any faster?

So you now require a higher flowing turbine to move the gases out faster to spin that billet wheel faster i would have thought?

Well there goes your power gain from the "billet" there right!

Is the new fancy aero gunna help increase spool when its in a compressor  cover that it wasn't designed to be in?

Especially when the inlet to the compressor cover isn't even big enough for me to squeeze bell end into! 

Now another dream crusher thrown in by Frakzz now the wheels weigh the same?

So there goes the lower inertia dream...

Now to the expensive bit lol....

 So next thing to factor in is you are going to need to upgrade your cores now as the geriatric GT series plastic BB cages that are in your 7's, 9's & 5's aren't going to be up to the task of the faster shaft speeds required for the extra boost OR the extra loads that will be applied to them from this extra boost.

WILL there be gains made from new ceramic BB vs the old BB cartridges? Highly unlikely to be measureable i would of thought?

I can't lay it out any more basic than that its a costly exercise that simply WILL NOT WORK!

You really are pushing a septic tank worth of shit up hill with a tooth pick! 

I didnt even mention the packaging issue that are also going to work against you either like the "twin turbo" pipe or the super tight bends off the backs of the turbines LOL!! 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

In other words twins are gay, the money you've blown and time you could have gone with a modern single, plus you would have change left over for hookers.

 

[Lithium]

Not too surprised the GTX weigh a bit more, they have 11 full-height blades and as Mick said - a dense chunk of alloy with everything that doesn't look like a compressor wheel cut away from it.   

The likes of the FP HTA arguably are better if you are aiming for spool as they don't tend to have a higher blade count and tend to result in a similar-ish profile to the old blade/hub design but with less "fat" in each direction.  I remember someone weighed the 59/82mm 82HTA compressor wheel and the 61/82mm Garrett cast GT wheel and the difference was 121g for the GT and 93g for the HTA.  It's not specifically that it was billet, but it's the actual wheel design they could get away with by milling the wheel as opposed to using a cast.

A lot of this is probably beside the point, the majority of the mass is in the turbine side - a lot of the spool is likely to come from the aero as opposed to the weight for the compressor in the grand scheme of things.

[discopotato03]

Just for my 2c .

Personally I would never use these GTX compressor wheels without a port shrouded compressor housing , I can't remember too many if any being supplied complete by Garrett without them .

RB26 twins don't appear to be an application that can use port shrouded compressor housings because there wouldn't be space for them .

I think there are good reasons why Garrett supply RB26 replacement turbos with conventional style compressor wheels , mainly compressor surge .

I'm not a GTR person but what I've always read is that GTSS/-9 or 2530s seem to give guaranteed results , for bolt on twin turbos .

ATM I think the single twin scroll EFR is probably the better overall package . Playing with experimental turbos is always expensive and the results are often iffy .

A .

 

 

[frakzz]

not so written, spooled at 5500 = 1.4, at the weekend I'll try the gears 

[No Crust Racing]

Low mount twins are fine for sub 400rwkw and not costing the earth or having mad lag. 

Can you have a faster spooling sub 400rwkw? Yes, but with much more $$. 

If you want to go beyond decently 400rwkw, you really are mad to try anything other than a good quality fully TS single setup. 

You have 2 choices, accept that it will not give you the result you set out for and try to maximize the current setup, knowing full well it will never achieve the initial goal, or go back to square one and ditch the twin setup in favour of a better single solution and stick to your original goal. 

 

 

[Mick_o]

3 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Low mount twins are fine for sub 400rwkw and not costing the earth or having mad lag. 

Can you have a faster spooling sub 400rwkw? Yes, but with much more $$. 

If you want to go beyond decently 400rwkw, you really are mad to try anything other than a good quality fully TS single setup. 

You have 2 choices, accept that it will not give you the result you set out for and try to maximize the current setup, knowing full well it will never achieve the initial goal, or go back to square one and ditch the twin setup in favour of a better single solution and stick to your original goal. 

 

 

I don't really think a basic T3 .82 single scroll setup like GTST boys use is realistically gunna be anymore expensive to setup than if you were to try setting up the twins properly going from stock to stock??

You dont need a super fancy twin scroll single setup to get a better drive outta your R than the twins provide. They really are very easy to improve on lol