Jump to content
SAU Community

Suspension mods for an R34 GTT


Recommended Posts

Suspension mods for an R34 GTT

Hey Guys,

What suspension mods would you recommend doing on an R34 GTT to improve the handling, currently the only suspension mods i have are some BC coilovers.

The car is my daily, it doesnt see any track use, just some spirited driving outside town around the windy roads where i live.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tein or similar castor rods with pillow ball front joints.  Far and away the best thing you can do to the front end.

Poly upper arm bushes are a good thing at the front.  Get them with adjustability to be able to tweak the camber.

At the rear it is a tougher thing.  There is no point in only doing a little bit.  Once you consider changing one arm, it becomes an all or nothing sort of thing.  But minimally, bin the HICAS and put in a proper eliminator kit.  With a good alignment.

After that, you're looking at the next "minimal" thing being to put adjustable poly bushes in all the upper arms.

After that....it's fully adjustable arms up top, with rubber outer bushes or even pillowballs if you give no fark for police attention and NVH.  But that it overkill for a streeter.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The worst thing you can do is put pillow ball front joints in the car.  It will change it so that every bump you go over will be amplified through the chassis and annoy the hell out of you.  So don't do it.  Other radius arms are fine without such joints also - nothing wrong with bushes.

If you want to do something get good spring rates and good dampers and match them to sway bars.  Good alignment (including ride height), low unsprung weight and no HICAS is about as good as you can hope for.

As was said in the first reply - good tyres make a huge difference.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/4/2017 at 4:23 PM, djr81 said:

The worst thing you can do is put pillow ball front joints in the car. 

I still maintain that on front castor rods you can barely tell that they're there (from an NVH perspective) but that they work a million times better than even stiff urethane bushes.

I agree that they make life hard anywhere else.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have an R34 GTT with Cusco tension rods (pillow ball) and the increase in NVH was honestly negligible :)

In saying that, I wouldn't be putting pillow ball bushes anywhere else on my car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bin the BC junk and put something that's half decent in there. 

Bushes! The more of these you change, the better. It's definitely a case of "oh wow, I didn't realise how bad it was" until you start replacing them OR changing arms that have new bushes in them. It is basically a 20 year old car. They're going to be flogged! Alloy rear cradle collars is a great place to start. The difference just by doing that is huge!

* Every arm on my own car is Pillow Ball and it's nothing like you guys are describing. You would hardly know!

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New R34 owned here (from the US) and found a gem, '98 GTT with ~6k miles, super clean & completely stock. When shifting there's no grinding, shifts smooth, etc. The concern I have are 2 things: 1) Only in 2nd and 3rd... when maintaining a slower speed (in traffic as an example) as I let off/on the gas, the shifter will slightly move and vibrate. If the clutch is engaged, none of this happens. It's not bad, but enough to feel like something isn't necessarily right. 2) This mainly happen in 4th or 5th... the shifter slightly bounces up and down, almost like it's riding on unbalanced tires (and I do think the tires are unbalanced as I get a little of that bounce feel at higher speeds, which is maybe why it only happens in 4th/5th). Lastly, and sorry for this noob question but I want to work on this car myself, can someone teach me some on these manual transmissions? Like servicing them, best products to use, etc.; would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
    • Coilovers aren't even the first step. Bushes, subframe position and alignment, HICAS elimination, adjustable upper arms and traction arms in order to dial out understeer. All these things need/deserve attention first. ARBs (There's no such thing as a swaybar. Please, everybody, stop calling them that) are useful if you want to limit spring stiffness. Otherwise you can control body roll with springs. Spring and damper rates are a function of road surface, speed and usage. There is no solution that works for all cases.
    • Define "nothing". Is the starter spinning but not the engine? Engine turning but not firing? If the engine is turning but not firing, then you are missing either fuel or spark. You need to find whichever has gone missing.
    • Shitbox Tiguan updates, got the APR OTS tune put back on (no charge for it to be removed/added back), didn't want to just come in just for that (not a fan of wasting people's time for nothing) so I purchased an APR dog bone insert. The boys at German Performance Garage said they would fit it for free too since they had 1x hoist free. Now that's service you don't normally get from most workshops. Anyhow, tune back on, snow grate pulled out, dog bone insert back in and not going to lie, a few smiles when I nailed it around the industrial area heading back onto the M7. Amayama also said 1 to 2.5 month wait for the RB25DE heater hose, yeah why not, car has been off the road for nearly 3, what's a other 2.5?
    • Hmm I'm going to approach this from the other side... What is the car doing that you don't like or what would you like the car to do that is currently isn't doing (handling wise that is)
×
×
  • Create New...