Jump to content
SAU Community

Installing Side Skirts??? URGENT


Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

My R33 Gtst When it came over from Japan never came with side skirts and rear pods, very stockish I guess the full type-m body kit was an option...

My problem is that I have found some factory type-m side skirts but before I buy them I am wondering how the hell do you mount them??? Especially the side skirts?? Since I just had a look at the car and even underneath I can’t see any decent holding points.

Just need to know if anyone has removed their side skirts before:

How do they come off and how do you get them on??

How they actually mount the car??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47159-installing-side-skirts-urgent/
Share on other sites

Guest RedLineGTR

Thanks for the quick reply. Here are some pics I have found of the factory side skirts. But I’ll still going to see the side skirts in the flesh to make up my mind before I buy them. Not that keen on drilling holes into the body :(

Hope to get some more feedback from people :)

Thanks For your Time. Rob

Yup you can see the 2 bolt holes either end, plus maybe 2 bolts along the middle on the inside and its done.

Just pay the money and get it done professionally is my only advice, even if you have to wait an extra month to get it done :)

Guest RedLineGTR
Yup you can see the 2 bolt holes either end, plus maybe 2 bolts along the middle on the inside and its done.

Just pay the money and get it done professionally is my only advice, even if you have to wait an extra month to get it done :)

Yah i'll see how it goes, since i know i have holes for bolts near the front guard but nothing on the rear knore on the bottom. Maybe i'll use double sided tape :) j/k I"ll just have to wait and see :(

Rob,

From the factory they attach with a series of clips into the door sill and 2 screws at either and.

I was in the same position as you, car had no skirts when I imported. I glued my skirts along the door sill (its easier, less fiddly and just as strong) and screwed at either end.

Hope this helps

Guest RedLineGTR

Life savers :rolleyes: sweet thanks for the info. If they just clip on and bolt on thats sweet saves me trying to get them into my car i can just clip them on!! on the spot too :rofl: saves them sticking out the windows. Thanks Again. Will let you guys know how i go tomorrow will be picking up some freshly paint sideskirts and rear pods for a good price.

Cheers Rob :D

No you have misunderstood, sorry. Since your car did not have skirts from the factory it doesn't have the holes to clip onto. You need to drill these holes and put a plug into the holes, which a clip will then clip into. The alternative is to glue them, and not drill any holes, which is easier :rolleyes:

Guest RedLineGTR

Ah...that makes it clearer..cos i remember somewhere i saw a photo of all these clips/plugs on the side of the car when a sideskirt was removed and i wasn't sure if it was those. Hmmm dont know if i want to glue them. if the screws hold them in place half decently i'd rather use double sided tape since if i do intend to remove them sometime i wont loose half my paint from the glue :rolleyes: or i just might decide that i dont want to bother with them.

sideskirts are easy as to install and so are rear pods. if your car has mud guards there gonna have to come off. and u just use those holes. and then on the rear of the side skirts your gonna have to drill new holes to fit them. also by some stuff called sikaflex from most car stores and put a few dots on the top of the skirts to hold them in place

Yeah i was told to use sikoflex as well as drilling two holes or so to mount the sideskirts. As for the pods- if they're fibreglass copies taken from a mould may be a bit of mucking around, especially pressing the lip part up and around the rear bar. I used tiny plugs to hold that curving part in, but my car is black so can easily get away with it. The end result looks really neat and professional, but there was a bit of mucking around involved. Otherwise just take it down and get someone else to do it!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...