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Apexi Power FC with Hand Controller & Greddy Profec B Spec II boost controller to suite R34 GT-R - $400 for the lot.

All in working order, selling due to upgrade in ECU and boost controller.
Can post out but at buyers expense. Please PM or msg 0424 056 507 for any inquiries cheers.

Apexi Power FC and Hand Controller 02.jpg

Apexi Power FC and Hand Controller 01.jpg

Apexi Power FC, hand controller and Greddy Profec B Spec II boost controller.jpg

Greddy Profec B Spec II 01.jpg

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R34 GT-R V-Spec front mount Intercooler for sale - $200
(Comes with top mounting brackets)

All in working order, selling due to upgrade in Intercooler.
Can post out but at buyers expense. Please PM or txt 0424 056 507 for any inquiries cheers

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R34 GT-R standard Fuel Rail & Adjustable Nismo FPR for sale - $100 Negotiable

All in working order, selling due to upgrade in Fuel Rail and FPR.
Can post out but at buyers expense. Please PM or txt 0424 056 507 for any inquiries cheers

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RB26 Injector (Ballast) Resistor Pack - $99

Came off an R34 GT-R and is in perfectly good working order. Selling due to upgrade in ECU & fuel system which didnt require this part.
Can post out but at buyers expense. Please PM or txt 0424 056 507 for any inquiries cheers

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  • Latest Posts

    • Did you also buy your car from Trust Kikaku?
    • Pretty much this ^ We run a 2000 and 2500 Elite in the R32s, they're mounted under the glovebox on an aluminium plate. We attach a piece of angle on the front side to pick up the 2 glovebox hinge bolts and a small 90 deg bracket on the rear which picks up a rear bolt, using 4mm nutserts as captive threads for the ECU fixing. Mounted like this has enough room for the plug and play harness to come out of the ECU, go over the kick panel and screw into your existing factory ECU harness. I've seen the kits that pick up the same points, which cost like $150+, but it only mounts the ECU ! You are better off mounting it on a made up plate as you can also mount your wideband controller to it too as we have done. For reference this is in the white 32: Definitely better off to make your own.  
    • The pressure should drop. Maybe not instantly, but it should. It doesn't just hold the pressure indefinitely when the engine is off and the fuel is not pumping. If it did, there would be no need to prime the fuel system... ever. If the pressure is dropping or being too high (or really, fluctuating) while the engine is running then there's an issue with the FPR. If you have two sets of stock injectors, and two stock FPR's and two fuel rails, I wouldn't be chasing the fuel side of the engine bay at this point for your problem. Personally I'd be re-checking that MAF (is it the same auto/manual/is it clean? did you actively clean it with MAF cleaner?) Alternatively, anything else custom in that circuit? You have spark, but do you know you have spark at the right time?. You've set timing to 15deg, but have you checked it with a timing light? Could it be out? Whats your CAS doing?
    • I had access to spare rail which included the injectors and FPR. That way if the issue was relating to a leaking injector or FPR issue it would be sorted.  However the fuel pressure it still not holding. iv changed the FPR as well and no luck.   note: old fuel rail setup has Since been reverted back We know that there is definitely a fuel pressure leak. fuel leak down test = failed (pressure drops instantly) The question is where is the leak occurring.. possible causes injectors = no leak from any while priming FPR = tried to pitch the short hose on the FPR while pump was priming and the pressure shot up to 100psi but after pumped stopped went back down to 0 In saying that iv tried another FPR with the same result. Either the 2 FPRs I have are faulty or something else is causing the Pressure drop.   Fuel tank lock ring  One other observation is that The lock ring where the fuel pump goes in the boot is split. fuel pressure might be escaping from there.     I’ll replace this first and see if that changes anything.  
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