Jump to content
SAU Community

Garrett G Series


Recommended Posts

Yeah good on them for being the guinea cops at that kind of expense, that is a LOT of unproven turbo to jump into using on a 2.8litre turn-corners-car.  Will be very interesting to see how they perform in the real world, they do definitely seem to be not shy of pumping some air!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/7/2018 at 7:36 AM, mr_rbman said:

Looks like the Integrated Motorsport Time Attack R34 GTR is going to twin Garrett new series turbos from a single EFR (9180 from memory) shall be interesting to see the differences, obviously custom everything, manifolds etc....

Nice cannot wait!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will be fitting a 550.72wg to a very basic config SR20VET later this year. 

Low comp, P11/VET cam combo, franken DET/VE intake, hypex ex side. Will try access above 8000 RPM on Piss98. Hope to move close to 50lbm.

Yes, Lithium, I am still alive. I also have an R33 GTR. 

Posting for sake of what they look like in the flesh. This was the first one delivered to a customer in Aus (me). It is a highly finished product compared to last gen, I have handled all manner of GTX and EFR in the last 2 years and can say these are the prettiest. I hope it's pretty good rather than pretty average. 

Stay tuned. 

IMG_20180109_181956.jpg

IMG_20180109_182158.jpg

IMG_20180109_182143.jpg

IMG_20180109_182134.jpg

IMG_20180109_182016.jpg

IMG_20180109_182004.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This may be the integrated motorsport set up mentioned earlier... look like an amazing setup regardless, sporting a bunch of local Platinum fruit [emoji1362]?

 

 https://www.facebook.com/545029935656927/posts/989437111216205/

 

 

IMG_2236.thumb.jpg.f5c4e669217ad06f6924996ecbb6a1dd.jpgIMG_2237.thumb.jpg.d85a67280c57bc2f5a8edbd1922ac82e.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, Piggaz said:

Garrett need to hurry up with their larger frame G series. 3582 size with decent T4 TS housings. ?

One of them would be very nice on the ute

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Cut and paste post from Facebook:

Probably one of the easiest to compare, this shows boost, torque and power for a G25-660 (solid lines) vs a Gen2 GTX3076R on an EVO.

Very solid power from the frame, but not what you'd necessarily be expecting spool wise from a "2867 sized turbo"

IMG_4795.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cut and paste from Facebook:

Same car, comparing with the GTX3582R it had on it earlier. THIS case shows a substantial spool improvement, but obviously needs more boost to make the same power - while it did match the GT30 psi for psi.

No question it flows very much like a GTX30 series turbo, but would have been nice if the boost threshold was much like the GT28 sized turbos like the naming would have you hope

IMG_4796.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 8/14/2018 at 9:01 AM, Snara said:

Anyone have experience with Garrett GTW3684R ? 

That's actually a GTW range turbo, a little off topic in here - but I've seen VERY little for the GTW range, most you can find is the GTW38s.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, sneakey pete said:

Apparently the twin G turbo engine made 1050 hp on the dyno with a little worse down low than the 9180 it replaced, 
probably not a bad result given the extra few hundred hp it picked up

Yep, pretty much as expected really - initially I thought they were saying they expected better spool than the EFR9180 which seemed like a tall ask... but it sounds like as you say, it's a reasonable amount laggier but makes >100hp more (not sure about a few hundred).  In the scheme of things - they are more turbo, they're laggier, and they make more power.

One of the more impressive things about the comparison for me was that apparently the twin G25s give nothing away to the Precision 6870 they tried, but makes more power and the 6870 fell on its face after 8000rpm - while the G25s hold on past 9000rpm. 

So yeah, as expected the G25s aren't really cooking until will into the 5000rpm range but if you've built it to rev like hell and they are holding up high then it sounds to match what they were looking for to a T.  

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not a long term proposition (for engine life), currently doing a durability run on 9180 (~1000bhp) with 3.4. Aiming for 20 hours, which is a topic not discussed or understood by most be it by deception or ignorance?.

The higher rpm required for twins along with associated exponential drop in engine life running it this way means we pretty much shit canned the idea ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, RICE RACING said:

Not a long term proposition (for engine life), currently doing a durability run on 9180 (~1000bhp) with 3.4. Aiming for 20 hours, which is a topic not discussed or understood by most be it by deception or ignorance?.

I am sure they know this, and I am sure a good percentage of the people discussing this realise that - I doubt it is either deception or ignorance so much as just like top level drag racing, time attack is pretty much getting the most you can out of a setup while still HOPEFULLY having it hold together long enough to get a result.  Its clearly not going to be an endurance engine... though those reasons are why I assumed when they said "more drivability/wider power delivery" that they were hoping it'd be more responsive earlier - not at the drag racing end of the rpm range.

It kind of backs up a lot of initial discussions of these turbos, considering wheel size wise they are comparable with GTX2867Rs or SMALLER than Trust T517Zs - they are not spool monsters by any stretch of the imagination, the G-series don't seem like a threat to EFRs in their realm however for this car the logic in why they went for them seems sound... so long as they can hardness the power delivery and keep the engine together long enough to achieve the results they are aiming for.

 

The RB34/EFR9180 combo sounds like fun!  What kind of rev range will that operate in?  In Evo world from memory the "more reliable" setups tended to be shorter stroke/longer rod combos (so nearer stock displacement as opposed to 20% more than stock) resulting in slightly less displacement - the bit of extra rpm needed to make a given power level usable was considered to often be a better reliability trade off from the effects come from the lower rod/stroke ratios the strokers resulted in.

Edited by Lithium
Link to comment
Share on other sites

These guys (Integrated / PMC) are building a car to be damn quick, not reliable longevity...

They have even gone to the extent of now running alloy rods purely to save weight etc...

They want to win WTAC oz, end of story...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
×
×
  • Create New...