Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Got a bit of an issue with my V35 manual coupe.
Wondering if anyone has any ideas what could be causing the sound in attached video?
 

  • Happens when decelerating from anything over 80km/h
  • Steering wheel will shake sometimes, other times it doesn't.
  • The noise is present without braking
  • Wheels and tyres are fine - IMPUL F919S with new Federal 595RSRs
  • Noise appears to be coming from drivers front wheel area
  • Calipers are not stuck

I've put the car up in the air and can't find anything visually wrong underneath. Spun the wheels by hand, sounds normal.
Was hoping it would be a wheel bearing, but now I'm not so sure.

Any ideas?

 

received_1749827491756552.mp4

Edited by nicholascleef

have you checked for loose plastic inner guard covers, sounds like something slapping around in there, maybe some of the plastic clips have broken?

Other than that, possibly bad bushes.  Does the noise go away if you apply brakes?

The noise doesn't go away if I apply brakes, nor if I put the clutch in. Inner guards etc are all secure and as normal. The noise only goes away once the vehicle has slowed down to below 80km/h regardless of whether I apply the brakes or just let the car gradually slow down.

Has brand new rotors and pads. Clutch is brand new too - Exedy heavy duty, single mass flywheel conversion.
Front lower arm bushes and lower ball joints replaced also. All this work was done less than 5,000km ago, car has been driving fine until recently.

Noise started occurring when I was giving it the beans, so I've obviously damaged something.

Edited by nicholascleef

I know you said the guards are secure but plus one on sounding like loose plastic.

I had an issue awhile ago where one of the smaller plastic covers that links to the undertray was loose.

Wind would hit it at certain speed, get partially trapped and would make noise.

 

hmm.. if it was bushes, I would expected to have seen some change with brakes, possibly steering linkages, but I would think that would be more obvious.

I know you checked, but the only thing I can think of that lines up with the symptoms well is a loose splash guard or fender liner.

Giving it a boot full of throttle shouldn't have broken anything in the front suspension, it is just there to steer and brake.

Thanks everyone for the responses. The noise ended up being the under tray, some of the clips were broken, hence it was partially loose. Not sure how I didn't notice this the first time I had the car up on the hoist. Obviously it was catching the wind at 80km/h+.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lol, yeh sure. But I'm not changing the head on this engine. Turbo is the current mod im looking at; as the VCT-2.6L  engine im building is getting the turbo setup i posted so the old built RB25DE needs a snail
    • New setup just needs a VCT enabled head and it will come on so much earlier. At least 500rpm of added response, if not more.
    • Wow, there's a user name I haven't seen for a while! Good to see you back @Sydneykid
    • Something to note, on an aftermarket BOV, it's quite possible to end up with the worst of both worlds, where on light throttle, there isn't enough force to open the BOV so you get small reversion and driveability issues, and with the venting to atmosphere, it dumps a lot of fuel on shifts. Realistically, dumping to atmosphere under power isn't a major driveability issues, compared to the issues of stalling from reversion. If you're getting up the throttle, then putting the clutch in, say on a shift up, but then don't release the clutch, yes, the engine can and will stall, but, just drive around it, and that's easy, let the clutch out in the next gear and the car rolling will keep it all running / going.who wants a hard hit of throttle and then to just let the motor idle anyway?   Main issue for driveability is blipping throttle and it wanting to stall, like when parking or trying to move in slow traffic.
    • As in they quoted one price, you mentioned the exhaust, and they promptly added $200 on top? Interesting.
×
×
  • Create New...