Jump to content
SAU Community

140A alternators kit for rbs


rat32r

Recommended Posts

Picked up my alternator kit from Rat32r yesterday. Was a pleasure doing business. I can say to anyone thinking of getting one, he was honest, knowledgeable and true to his word. The product looks the goods.
I will report back once it’s fitted to my car.
Again, thank you mate.
Here is the photos you f it out of the car for anyone interested.
IMG_6459.thumb.jpg.3358c081f9a4f9d410823016e819a6e7.jpg
IMG_6460.thumb.jpg.cc7256b876ba7a75bbe65e2317775945.jpg
IMG_6461.thumb.jpg.8e88fa9811ce661b1db6568622a2fecb.jpg
IMG_6462.thumb.jpg.ee864c0602fddf9aa767a56b8c4d8dc4.jpg

Pleasure doing business mate.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

what size alternators do you stock? Mine packed it in at roll racing last night so figured may just be easier to buy another than have this one rebuilt again

I have genuine OEM Holden made in Japan 140A Alternators
Link to comment
Share on other sites

FYI ls1 alternator p/n
GM#92058857. (140Amp)
Mitsubishi #A3TA7991 (140A)
Bosch #BXM131E. (140A)
Power master #4/58203 ( 200A)
These are the best but there are cheaper aftermarket ls1 alternator just check eBay

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
What did you end up setting the price at for a kit? Price with and without alternator itself please, also how much extra for anodised? 

Kits are 200.
Or 500
Didn't get enough request for black so won't be doing black this time next production run I'll revisist the issue.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
3 hours ago, ridebmxyo said:

Are these kits still for sale? How much for just a kit without alternator and posted to Darwin

See the post above yours addressed to me, $200 for bare kit, or $500 with an alt. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brilliant, how do I go about ordering? Have you got a paypal? I will order one now, I’ve a trade account through work so I can get alternators myself cheap

You can do PayPal, bank transfer or cod.
We're are you located?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Y'know what, after reading a topic on a 360kw build using a nistune (who ended up going LINK), im now considering a LINK over a nistune. The engine protection alone would probably be worth it. And id like to learn to tune so would be nice to have that safe guard. Which means i probably wont need a boost controller then, or the R35 MAF.  Becoming a bit of a blog now but oh wells. As mentioned previously, the goal is around 300kw, for a daily driver. Will be looking at fitting a highflow turbo or similar (something that doesnt require downpipes, manifolds etc to be changed out) when the current stock gives out or the money for it is there. 
    • Thanks guys. Are you meant to tighten the converter bolts through the starter motor hole? Think my plate between gearbox and engine is one piece. Im heading up there tomorrow.
    • Picked my tailshaft up yesterday arv!! Test fit it and because they've gone to a ford centre bearing and CV I had to modify the mounting bracket a little bit. 5mm of each side and she went up into position and fits well. It has a 1350 uni and flange on the gearbox end so it should be plenty strong!  Got stuck in this morning and started on the wiring mess. Cut out all the wires not required that go to the body connector and cut the engine harness out. Need to go through and work out which ones I need to keep and rewire into the new ecu. Should save a small amount of weight as well. I'd love to get in and rip the dash and everything out to completely remove wiring but cbf.  Next up was the power harness for alternator, starter etc. It has a few connectors from factory that run out of it. Cut it all apart and removed what was no longer required and put some new corro and taped it all back up and bolted it all back into place.  After that I worked out where I can mount the new flex sensor. Found a couple of factory bolt holes and drilled a new hole on the bracket to suit. Need to go get a few fittings and adapters tomorrow so I can keep going.   
    • Nah, im after the more newer looking, one with the OLED display
    • We revised the neutral wire instructions. The old way was wrong.  R34 gearbox change.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...