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350GT-8 6MT Conversion UPDATE!! + CD001->CD009 rebuild??

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Hey guys,

Thought I'd drop an update on the 6MT swap on my 2002 350gt-8..
On Saturday I dropped the diff, driveshaft & CVT with the help of a friend & only nearly killed him once with the cvt falling off the jack hahaha.
Got it done in about 2.5-3hrs with a few hours prep I did the weekend before. Prep like drop exhaust, remove most of the bellhousing bolts, CVT clutch lines, loosen what driveshaft bolts I could etc.

The most difficult parts were the little things really, remove this to get to that etc. Going through the CVT inspection plate to remove the X (I forgot what its called- between flywheel/torque convertor) otherwise the torque converter will still be attached and fighting the removal of the gearbox. Removed started motor, cable tied it aside to spin and wedge the X to get to the bolts through the inspection plate. Also removed the CVT dipstick & a loom bracket to get bellhousing bolts off from the top inside engine bay.

Didn't have to touch the interior just left it in neutral to rotate driveshaft, disconnected gear linkage, was a peice of cake actually.

I have a question though.. I sourced a CD001 6MT through this forum like at least 3 years ago for 1k before I knew of the difference.

Is it possible to rebuild a CD001 so it has synchros like a CD009 or at least strengthen it??
also
I've watched a bunch of youtube vids and I'm getting the impression that it's better to weld an open diff over a VLSD. Can anyone explain why this is please?


Also have a 2003 350z VLSD I'm installing along with Whitline bushings essentials kit. Will measure up the driveshaft when 6MT & diff are installed.

Next up is to prep the Z1 clutch for install, remove auto flywheel, rear main seal if required etc, solid bushings, interior prep, prep 6MT crossmember, install 6MT, short shifter etc, handbrake relocation(the cable is already right where it needs to be running through the tranny tunnel), clutch/brake pedal install then once that's all done scratching my head for a day maybe dealing with electronics hehe.. Just goto bridge the neutral safety switch and figure out reverse lights I think..

I'm going by this thread below mainly. But didnt even look at it when getting into the job, basically just unbolt remove whats in the way and drop whats needed.
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/552038-5at-to-6mt-swap-info-diy-guide-thread.html

Yes I'm more than likely forgetting a lot, but it's pretty straight forward. Having my mechanic friend there for really helped figuring out the inspection plate X removal & with tips for getting more leverage/using the car to our advantage. Like loosening the axel shaft bolts with the 2nd spanner pinned up against the sway bar, removing the the driveshaft still attached to the diff as we didnt have the 8mm allen key tool required for the diff side driveshaft.

ALL THIS WAS DONE ON WITH THE CAR ON JACK STANDS WITH BASIC TOOLS

BTW...I'm waiting on an order from the USA- 'Never Ending Details'. DO NOT USE THIS COMPANY. They f**king suck. Barely any communication, Took ages to ship (nearly 2 months) and that's with me threatening them with a VISA dispute. Anyways just thought I'd add my experience with them. Pretty much follows the multiple bad reviews I've read online, same shit.
The order was for flywheel/pressure plate bolts/various peices as it was a lot cheaper than going through Nissan (eg $17.50 VS ~$2 for 1x OEM flywheel bolt)

I'm stoked the hard part is pretty much over. More room for activities now hehehe.
BTW, the goal for this car is to make it into a nice street/semi drift capable car, with strut bracing/chassis reinforcement, coilovers, camber/angle mods & maybe a plenum spacer/intake being on the cards. Already has a mean sounding full borla exhaust & headers from the previous owner + ditch the wack bob jane special rims for some lightweight Rays TE37's. 

This car has been sitting for 3-4 years so I'm feeling really accomplished and excited to get her on the road again :)
I will try to keep you guys updated.

Cheers,
Seb

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Edited by padlock
add pics/ edit text
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Its not better to weld an open diff. Viscous LSDs are better replaced with a mechanical LSD

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However, for an NA VQ engine, the VLSD will possibly be good enough most of the time.  You will get a better drive from a mech LSD, but unless you're having big single wheel sessions with the VLSD, then it is doing 90% of what you want.

And this is coming from someone who usually shits on VLSDs from a great height, because once they are older or confronted with an RB with extra boost they just open up and are shit.

Edited by GTSBoy

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I'll see how it goes anyways.. Who knows the life it's had previously lol
Gonna try and work on it tomorrow if I have time, or Saturday most def.

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I just got an application approved for a rental with a sweet powered workshop, so I'm stoked on that atm :)

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Btw... When I refer to X above in the op, I meant Ring Gear i think. Just remembered. 

I've had a hectic week and just took a day off yesterday, Woke up with a burner headache today.. Bahhumbug.
But gonna try and head over to my dads house where the cars at and get something done today.

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One other thing to add. When we were removing the bolts for the Ring gear/Torque converter so we could get the CVT out, We removed the power steering rack lines that were in the way of the inspection hole. Made that job 10 times easier. It can be done without doing so but it was that much easier/quicker to just do it.

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Today....
Did a few smaller jobs, wasn't feeling the best today..

*Cleaned up dirt covering oil spills from last week lol, actually came up perfect with degreaser & orange power &  fine dirt from the back yard.

*Remove auto flywheel - easy. I have a new rear main seal. It looks like the one that's on there has been replaced maybe or Nissan just use a lot of RTV sealant from the factory. My mate said if it's not leaking and seems ok to just leave it. So I'll probably do that.

*Remove auto shifter / centre console - easy once I knew how. Two screws, one either side of console near seat, the console just unclipped as I pulled on it. Had to use the shiftlock to put the shifter lower into drive to lift the console up. remove hvac thing with two screws. then to get console out there are two screws near the front & two near the back. pretty basic. Also the manual console I have does not use the hvac to send air to the rear passengers, I guess coz I got a manual coupe console maybe? Doesn't really matter to me anyways but worth noting.

*Drivers seat electronic controls got stuck, fixed that - super easy with a quick search on here. Just removed the controls with two screws, unclipped and roughly cleaned. Was actually super surprised that worked lol. Was easy with the console out.

*Stared at diff for a while, contemplating getting started with the whiteline bushings, wasn't feeling it.

Next time I'll probably work on installing the clutch pedal. Still deciding whether to install the manual brake pedal I have or just chop the auto brake pedal. And get started with the Whiteline solid bushings, probably drop the rear subframe as I have the whole bushing kit. May as well..

On a side note when searching this forum about the centre console removal, I came across a thread where a member Adam left a post with his number. I thought f**k it and called the guy. Spoke to him for 30 mins helping me with this n that. Guy was super helpful since he's done this 6MT swap before. Hooked me up with the V35 manual too. Legend!! 

Adam mentioned that one of the must do jobs or the car wont start is to properly index the flywheel. So I'm glad he reminded me about that. I'll admit I've been getting a bit too excited and I'm not really referencing the DIY guide link in the op. So I'll have a another read of that tonight.

That's all I can think of atm. I'm kinda burnt out. It was very humid today in Perth.
I'll try take a bunch of photos next time.
Peace

 

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+ Note to self.. When you remove a power steering line on the rack, every time you turn the wheel for whatever reason fluid will piss out of the rack :4_joy::4_joy:
It helped that there's a big whole inside the car now from removing the shifter & boot, so i could see it leak when steering was activated haha

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Manual sedan has no rear hvac outlets in the centre console (at least my S2 6mt doesn't).  I guess because of the hand brake and manual shifter leaves no room for the ducting.

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Ok that makes sense, thanks. It's these little things like the hvac that aren't really documented anywhere.

Yesterday I got a few things done. Not as much as I'd like but still hit my goal.

I focused on removing the diff vertical bushings. Spent a lot of hours trying to get them out, maybe 3 all up. Once I figured out what was working it was fairly seamless. I started by blow torching them, drilling and got a mad squirt of hydraulic fluid all over me and some in my eye. Pretty grateful I wear glasses at that point. Kinda scary, but didn't burn or sting so I just washed up and got back to it. More torching / drilling. Got one of the insides out. Then I started chiselling out the housing from the diff ears using the chisel as a wedge & that worked great. Just kept banging the f**k out of it and success. Almost gave up on it but glad I stuck it out.
Installing the Whiteline solid bushings was a breeze. Next time I'm going to do the horizontal diff bushing, the one in the rear subframe. Not really looking forward to that, but I did notice mine had a leak mark on the subframe so I am glad I'm doing the job now as It wont last much longer under load.

During that job I removed and installed a new passenger side sway bar link. Straight forward since I already did the driver side one. Just like the frist one I installed, I had to drop the whole sway bar and grinded the link bolt off as it stripped very easily. I replaced it because when my friend installed lowering springs years ago the thread was banged up and couldn't get the nut on. I was driving the car with no link nut on for a year lol. The car is unregistered so it will need to go over the pits and they wouldn't pass that imo. Anyways I replaced the links with ebay Febest brand $20ea shipped & they seem ok but they are junk and I wouldn't recommend them. They use nylon 19mm nuts instead of 17mm flange nuts & where the link bolts to the control arm I've already noticed the threads strip already as I had to remove it to drop the whole sway bar. I managed to get it back on and finish the job, but doubt they will last. I have the replacement oem nuts I've ordered so I used them too. I would recommend Whiteline sway bar/links for a couple hundred bucks.

Next time I work on the car I'm going to remove all the control arms and take them to a shop to use a hydraulic press to remove all those bushings for the whiteline F&R essentials kit I have.

That's where I'm at. Doing these optional preventative/upgrade maintenance steps.

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I am not really a fan of poly bushes in high load points in the suspension.  I replaced large compression rod bushing with an energy suspension bushing not long after I got my car because the rubber one was split.  It lasted a couple of years and started making horrible noises, I removed it and it was badly split, also because of the way it can separate in the centre, it allows a gap at each end and dirt can get in which scratches up the aluminium rod.  I fitted whiteline bushes after that, they lasted longer but still let dirt and gunk in which did even more damage.  I ended up ordering uprated OEM bushes, fitted these and all has been fine.

I guess it depends if the stiffer bushings are a higher priority for you.  For a daily, I would suggest sticking with rubber bushes.

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Thanks for the input. I'll keep that in mind for the future. Did you grease the bushing sleeves/housings before install?
This car is intended for street/drift daily until I get bored, So I'm happy with a stiffer ride.

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Yes, greased as per the instructions that came with them, also used the grease that came with them.

For sure, if you are using it in a situation where movement in the normal rubber bushings will be an issue, then it is worthwhile.

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Yesterday..

Successfully got the horizontal diff bushing out and replaced with the solid one. Man that job can suck a fat JDM dick! 
I used the drill method & used pry bars, a chisel & a hacksaw blade. Covered in micro metal splinters and rubber, Not fun.
But stuck it out and got it done. Scuffed up the housing pretty good so I don't recommend this method. If I did it again I would make up a diy clamping pulling tool with a long thread & washers etc. Took about 1 solid hours of banging away at it, in reality it took about 3 hours.

I also removed the front upper & lower controls arms. That was actually pretty easy. I just have the brakes propped up on blocks of wood on my wheels for a few days while I get the control arm bushings pressed out & in an at a mates.

That's about it. I'm f**king exhausted. I hope who ever reads this is having a good weekend.

Next job after above is decide whether I want to replace the rear main seal or not, install the clutch & clutch pedal, then chuck the drivetrain in :)
 

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Today....
Did a few smaller jobs, wasn't feeling the best today..

*Cleaned up dirt covering oil spills from last week lol, actually came up perfect with degreaser & orange power &  fine dirt from the back yard.

*Remove auto flywheel - easy. I have a new rear main seal. It looks like the one that's on there has been replaced maybe or Nissan just use a lot of RTV sealant from the factory. My mate said if it's not leaking and seems ok to just leave it. So I'll probably do that.

*Remove auto shifter / centre console - easy once I knew how. Two screws, one either side of console near seat, the console just unclipped as I pulled on it. Had to use the shiftlock to put the shifter lower into drive to lift the console up. remove hvac thing with two screws. then to get console out there are two screws near the front & two near the back. pretty basic. Also the manual console I have does not use the hvac to send air to the rear passengers, I guess coz I got a manual coupe console maybe? Doesn't really matter to me anyways but worth noting.

*Drivers seat electronic controls got stuck, fixed that - super easy with a quick search on here. Just removed the controls with two screws, unclipped and roughly cleaned. Was actually super surprised that worked lol. Was easy with the console out.

*Stared at diff for a while, contemplating getting started with the whiteline bushings, wasn't feeling it.

Next time I'll probably work on installing the clutch pedal. Still deciding whether to install the manual brake pedal I have or just chop the auto brake pedal. And get started with the Whiteline solid bushings, probably drop the rear subframe as I have the whole bushing kit. May as well..

On a side note when searching this forum about the centre console removal, I came across a thread where a member Adam left a post with his number. I thought f**k it and called the guy. Spoke to him for 30 mins helping me with this n that. Guy was super helpful since he's done this 6MT swap before. Hooked me up with the V35 manual too. Legend!! 

Adam mentioned that one of the must do jobs or the car wont start is to properly index the flywheel. So I'm glad he reminded me about that. I'll admit I've been getting a bit too excited and I'm not really referencing the DIY guide link in the op. So I'll have a another read of that tonight.

That's all I can think of atm. I'm kinda burnt out. It was very humid today in Perth.
I'll try take a bunch of photos next time.
Peace

 
thank you for the mention, however I think I now got to thank you. Now I'm in the mood to do another V35. Yes taking inhibitor switch off CVT and working wires out. Just find neutral and reverse. Give me buzz if any dramas after that.

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thank you for the mention, however I think I now got to thank you. Now I'm in the mood to do another V35. Yes taking inhibitor switch off CVT and working wires out. Just find neutral and reverse. Give me buzz if any dramas after that.
You can option the centre console ducting to divert to glovebox or somewhere else and use as cold box for drinks

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