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350GT-8 6MT Conversion UPDATE!! + CD001->CD009 rebuild??

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Hey guys,

Thought I'd drop an update on the 6MT swap on my 2002 350gt-8..
On Saturday I dropped the diff, driveshaft & CVT with the help of a friend & only nearly killed him once with the cvt falling off the jack hahaha.
Got it done in about 2.5-3hrs with a few hours prep I did the weekend before. Prep like drop exhaust, remove most of the bellhousing bolts, CVT clutch lines, loosen what driveshaft bolts I could etc.

The most difficult parts were the little things really, remove this to get to that etc. Going through the CVT inspection plate to remove the X (I forgot what its called- between flywheel/torque convertor) otherwise the torque converter will still be attached and fighting the removal of the gearbox. Removed started motor, cable tied it aside to spin and wedge the X to get to the bolts through the inspection plate. Also removed the CVT dipstick & a loom bracket to get bellhousing bolts off from the top inside engine bay.

Didn't have to touch the interior just left it in neutral to rotate driveshaft, disconnected gear linkage, was a peice of cake actually.

I have a question though.. I sourced a CD001 6MT through this forum like at least 3 years ago for 1k before I knew of the difference.

Is it possible to rebuild a CD001 so it has synchros like a CD009 or at least strengthen it??
also
I've watched a bunch of youtube vids and I'm getting the impression that it's better to weld an open diff over a VLSD. Can anyone explain why this is please?


Also have a 2003 350z VLSD I'm installing along with Whitline bushings essentials kit. Will measure up the driveshaft when 6MT & diff are installed.

Next up is to prep the Z1 clutch for install, remove auto flywheel, rear main seal if required etc, solid bushings, interior prep, prep 6MT crossmember, install 6MT, short shifter etc, handbrake relocation(the cable is already right where it needs to be running through the tranny tunnel), clutch/brake pedal install then once that's all done scratching my head for a day maybe dealing with electronics hehe.. Just goto bridge the neutral safety switch and figure out reverse lights I think..

I'm going by this thread below mainly. But didnt even look at it when getting into the job, basically just unbolt remove whats in the way and drop whats needed.
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/552038-5at-to-6mt-swap-info-diy-guide-thread.html

Yes I'm more than likely forgetting a lot, but it's pretty straight forward. Having my mechanic friend there for really helped figuring out the inspection plate X removal & with tips for getting more leverage/using the car to our advantage. Like loosening the axel shaft bolts with the 2nd spanner pinned up against the sway bar, removing the the driveshaft still attached to the diff as we didnt have the 8mm allen key tool required for the diff side driveshaft.

ALL THIS WAS DONE ON WITH THE CAR ON JACK STANDS WITH BASIC TOOLS

BTW...I'm waiting on an order from the USA- 'Never Ending Details'. DO NOT USE THIS COMPANY. They f**king suck. Barely any communication, Took ages to ship (nearly 2 months) and that's with me threatening them with a VISA dispute. Anyways just thought I'd add my experience with them. Pretty much follows the multiple bad reviews I've read online, same shit.
The order was for flywheel/pressure plate bolts/various peices as it was a lot cheaper than going through Nissan (eg $17.50 VS ~$2 for 1x OEM flywheel bolt)

I'm stoked the hard part is pretty much over. More room for activities now hehehe.
BTW, the goal for this car is to make it into a nice street/semi drift capable car, with strut bracing/chassis reinforcement, coilovers, camber/angle mods & maybe a plenum spacer/intake being on the cards. Already has a mean sounding full borla exhaust & headers from the previous owner + ditch the wack bob jane special rims for some lightweight Rays TE37's. 

This car has been sitting for 3-4 years so I'm feeling really accomplished and excited to get her on the road again :)
I will try to keep you guys updated.

Cheers,
Seb

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Edited by padlock
add pics/ edit text
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Its not better to weld an open diff. Viscous LSDs are better replaced with a mechanical LSD

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However, for an NA VQ engine, the VLSD will possibly be good enough most of the time.  You will get a better drive from a mech LSD, but unless you're having big single wheel sessions with the VLSD, then it is doing 90% of what you want.

And this is coming from someone who usually shits on VLSDs from a great height, because once they are older or confronted with an RB with extra boost they just open up and are shit.

Edited by GTSBoy

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  • I'll see how it goes anyways.. Who knows the life it's had previously lol
    Gonna try and work on it tomorrow if I have time, or Saturday most def.

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  • I just got an application approved for a rental with a sweet powered workshop, so I'm stoked on that atm :)

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  • Btw... When I refer to X above in the op, I meant Ring Gear i think. Just remembered. 

    I've had a hectic week and just took a day off yesterday, Woke up with a burner headache today.. Bahhumbug.
    But gonna try and head over to my dads house where the cars at and get something done today.

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  • One other thing to add. When we were removing the bolts for the Ring gear/Torque converter so we could get the CVT out, We removed the power steering rack lines that were in the way of the inspection hole. Made that job 10 times easier. It can be done without doing so but it was that much easier/quicker to just do it.

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  • Today....
    Did a few smaller jobs, wasn't feeling the best today..

    *Cleaned up dirt covering oil spills from last week lol, actually came up perfect with degreaser & orange power &  fine dirt from the back yard.

    *Remove auto flywheel - easy. I have a new rear main seal. It looks like the one that's on there has been replaced maybe or Nissan just use a lot of RTV sealant from the factory. My mate said if it's not leaking and seems ok to just leave it. So I'll probably do that.

    *Remove auto shifter / centre console - easy once I knew how. Two screws, one either side of console near seat, the console just unclipped as I pulled on it. Had to use the shiftlock to put the shifter lower into drive to lift the console up. remove hvac thing with two screws. then to get console out there are two screws near the front & two near the back. pretty basic. Also the manual console I have does not use the hvac to send air to the rear passengers, I guess coz I got a manual coupe console maybe? Doesn't really matter to me anyways but worth noting.

    *Drivers seat electronic controls got stuck, fixed that - super easy with a quick search on here. Just removed the controls with two screws, unclipped and roughly cleaned. Was actually super surprised that worked lol. Was easy with the console out.

    *Stared at diff for a while, contemplating getting started with the whiteline bushings, wasn't feeling it.

    Next time I'll probably work on installing the clutch pedal. Still deciding whether to install the manual brake pedal I have or just chop the auto brake pedal. And get started with the Whiteline solid bushings, probably drop the rear subframe as I have the whole bushing kit. May as well..

    On a side note when searching this forum about the centre console removal, I came across a thread where a member Adam left a post with his number. I thought f**k it and called the guy. Spoke to him for 30 mins helping me with this n that. Guy was super helpful since he's done this 6MT swap before. Hooked me up with the V35 manual too. Legend!! 

    Adam mentioned that one of the must do jobs or the car wont start is to properly index the flywheel. So I'm glad he reminded me about that. I'll admit I've been getting a bit too excited and I'm not really referencing the DIY guide link in the op. So I'll have a another read of that tonight.

    That's all I can think of atm. I'm kinda burnt out. It was very humid today in Perth.
    I'll try take a bunch of photos next time.
    Peace

     

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  • + Note to self.. When you remove a power steering line on the rack, every time you turn the wheel for whatever reason fluid will piss out of the rack :4_joy::4_joy:
    It helped that there's a big whole inside the car now from removing the shifter & boot, so i could see it leak when steering was activated haha

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    Manual sedan has no rear hvac outlets in the centre console (at least my S2 6mt doesn't).  I guess because of the hand brake and manual shifter leaves no room for the ducting.

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