Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Rb 30 25 coil pack choices


Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

Due to recently accidentally buggering two of my Spitfire coil packs and finding it difficult to find 2 to replace them.

I'm wondering if there is any gain to be had by converting to the Ls coil packs or the Yaris coil packs.

 

If so can I please have the correct part numbers for the best Yaris or LS coil pack.

 

Also any information needed on fittings them as well please

 

Thank you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yaris (or just about any similar pencil coil) hands down choice over the truck coils as the truck coils are finicky about dwell.

Yaris, or Celica or Corolla (which is pretty much the 1NZ and 1ZZ coils) are all much of a muchness I think.  There is one particular choice out of them which is the better one.  A lot of them have the wiring loom plug angled upwards.  These are not as good a choice as the ones with the loom plug horizontal, because of not being able to make them fit under a coil cover.

I think the part number of choice is 90919-02240 .  See http://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/coilpack-info-guide

The similar Audi coils and R35 coils are all equally good.  Whatever the choice, you end up needing plugs and some mounting plates.  And probably have to sort out rubber boots/springs.

Edited by GTSBoy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Coil pack upgrades (as in, an upgrade beyond the usual drop in splitfires) are pointless unless you're running a serious setup with which the standard coil type can't keep up. You don't so much net gains with better coils, you just retrieve lost power through poor quality or worn ignition components. Simply put, unless you're running a drag or drift car with 1000hp, or your coils are worn, stick with what you have. Buy the new set and onsell your four to someone else?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have found a cheap and easy way to mount yaris coils into the rb25det neo and also the s1 & s2 motors.

You can just buy some thread bar the same size as the 8mm bolt on the s1 and 2 and the same size as the 10mm bolts that hold the NEO ones in place and cut it to size and use a bolt as a stopper to where it likes to sit and use another bolt on top to fasten it,  worked great on my neo,  when i changed to a s2 head all i did was turn down the bottom of the stud to a m5 1.0 and adapted it to the coil brackets.

if you are worried about looks then fork out the cash for the kits getting around

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Jordy32 said:

Kudos sell them 1 by 1 if you just need 2, shouldn't be a difficult problem to fix.

Yer but 99 each i might aswell buy a full new set.

Was hoping to find someone who has changed to yaris or ls and off loading them

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

unless you buy the yaris coils from toyota or a known oem supplier dont bother we get heap through the shop and they fail constantly, many other big name shops are also seeing the same failures. Read the replies...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Well, it goes without saying that you want genuine Delco.  Otherwise it's no different to putting yellowjackets on.

DENSO...

Problem is they all are exact copies including the toyota part numbers and DENSO markings..so there is no way to tell.... tested spark energy is not much better than spltfires anyway...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry, you're right, was thinking Denso and having had the same argument elsewhere over the truck coils the other day, have OEM name confusion to add to my other problems.

There is a way to buy proper Denso product.  Go to a proper vendor, not eBay et al.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Sorry, you're right, was thinking Denso and having had the same argument elsewhere over the truck coils the other day, have OEM name confusion to add to my other problems.

There is a way to buy proper Denso product.  Go to a proper vendor, not eBay et al.

yeah problem is even the most popular vendors are selling copies.... you will see that in the post i linked earlier. ive tried 3 reputable vendors and all are selling copies dressed as genuine. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For some reason I can't follow that link - it doesn't even display properly.  Is it on here, or is it facebook? (I have EVERYTHING facebook blocked in my browser).

By proper vendors.....I'm thinking OEM stockists like Ashdown Ingrams and the like.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Komdotkom said:

For f**ks sake, I've just put Yaris coils on mine that I purchased from Goleby's. The didn't come in OEM Toyota boxes so now I suspect that they'll be fakes.

What dwell times are you using Trent?

I'm pretty sure i've seen somewhere on FB that golebys confirms they are not genuine coils in their kits. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/12/2018 at 1:15 PM, Komdotkom said:

For f**ks sake, I've just put Yaris coils on mine that I purchased from Goleby's. The didn't come in OEM Toyota boxes so now I suspect that they'll be fakes.

What dwell times are you using Trent?

these are where alot of the replicas ive seen (and other reputable shops) are from.

If you check out the link below you will see some big name shops having the same dramas. Click on the comments icon and it will open the conversation.

click here

Run conservative dwell on the golebys ones to be safe.

Battery Voltage (V)

 

Dwell Time (msec)

 

8

 

5.60

 

10

 

3.40

 

12

 

2.48

 

14

 

2.00

 

16

 

1.65

 

18

 

1.42

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Something about these RBs just makes for huge headaches when it comes to dropping bolts. My very first interaction with the car was changing the plugs out to see if it would cure a misfire. I immediately dropped one of the coilpack cover bolts down the intake side of the engine. I called it a total loss and ordered a set of replacement bolts just to have, but I found the original bolt months later jammed in one of the ITBs, right in a little gap between the intake runners and a reinforcing bridge in the part.
    • Ended up getting a getrag for a resonable price in the end but considering what they are selling for now I am probably going to put it on the market now. How's everyone's PPG sequential's going still?
    • For a while I'd be living with a mysterious oil leak from vaguely behind the timing covers. After a drive there would be a small puddle under the car. If I ran the valley cover oil would collect under in the coilpacks especially around #1 and #2. If I ran no valley cover there would be a fine mist over most of the engine bay. Everything pointed to bad front main or cam seals as it was impossible to initially see the source as the timing belt would pull everything around. I tried several times in a day replacing the seals thinking that the issue was one of the front main or cam seals. I went as far as using genuine nissan goo around the corners of the cam seals etc. But still the issue remained. This was how it was for longer than I care to admit but with a large sump capacity and limited use it wasn't a big issue. Finally I found the issue, The VCT gear thing itself was leaking and after speaking to a few people who are highly knowledgeable in RBs the consensus was "huh thats a new one."   Anyway incase this is your issue too i post the following run through: remove the upper timing cover and replace the CAS using the small spacers from in the upper timing cover. Oil behind the VCT timing gear on the timing backing plate. But not behind the backing black on the head around the seals.   Oil inside the VCT gear   VCT oil gear pressed in seal. Apparently there is an o-ring behind the seal. it was able to rotate independent of the rest of it   a test i did to point me in this direction was holding some paper against the backing plate and shining a bright light on the paper to watch the oil spray pattern     More info in the video showing the tests and the rotating of a bad vs good gear. Also voice reveal lol   right after I confirmed the issue was fixed i dropped one of the little CAS spacers down into guts of it. Thankfully I had an inspection camera and a magnet so did not need to remove the timing belt for what would have been the 20th time!
    • Damn they're tasty!!  I love the satin kind of finish it comes up as.  
    • Did you do the powder coating? They look great.
×
×
  • Create New...