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KerrodR33

Better to buy a motor already built?

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5 minutes ago, KerrodR33 said:

R.i.p.s or spool 3.2L?

Both

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7 minutes ago, KerrodR33 said:

R.i.p.s or spool 3.2L?

 

Going the 30 bottom end route for cost and strength to avoid having to buy an N1 block. Aiming for 750awhp

Ive been a big fan if RIPS rb30. Its tried and proven  he has also been doing them for decades. 

Should email him and ask for a custom quote to your specifics. 

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The only argument I can see for buying a built motor is time.  it usually takes twice as long as you think and then a bit more to build your own (sometimes years!) but if you are not in a hurry then probably go with your own build.

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Yeah you'll only save in time. Ultimately unless you are DIY'ing yourself you have to trust someone external to you anyway. Whether thats the seller (who is usually another customer) you're still trusting *a* machine shopt or *a* builder whether you deal with them directly or indirectly.


I'd personally prefer a motor that's done ~25,000kms and a few track days/many dyno runs and is still holding together just fine like mineeee... over one freshly built anyway. Reputation tends to matter a lot with these things. In 2018 it's really hard not to argue just ordering a RIPS RB30 bottom end as soon as you buy any R chassis and have it ready to go and it'll be all you need.

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On 12/03/2018 at 7:39 AM, Leroy Peterson said:

Soon N1 blocks will be comparable price to billet blocks

Yet a probably the weakest out of the bunch. I think the big power cars starting to use modified rb25 blocks to suit rb 26

 

Another Platinum 4WD RB25 converted to RB26 block hitting the streets... many more in the pipleline. Why? Because better than a N1

Platinum Racing Products After vigorous testing we have finally established that the N1 block is a poor casting yes.. We have come up with a far better solution 1f642.png:)

And sorry to tell you, but the N1 is a complete waste of money, they crack as fast as if not faster than a 05U

 

 

 

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Just use a 4WD RB25DET NEO in a GT-R. That would cause some controversy haha..

No need for VCAM just use the factory VCT, then build that motor.

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1 hour ago, Kinkstaah said:

Yeah you'll only save in time. Ultimately unless you are DIY'ing yourself you have to trust someone external to you anyway. Whether thats the seller (who is usually another customer) you're still trusting *a* machine shopt or *a* builder whether you deal with them directly or indirectly.


I'd personally prefer a motor that's done ~25,000kms and a few track days/many dyno runs and is still holding together just fine like mineeee... over one freshly built anyway. Reputation tends to matter a lot with these things. In 2018 it's really hard not to argue just ordering a RIPS RB30 bottom end as soon as you buy any R chassis and have it ready to go and it'll be all you need.

Unless you have a R32. no RB30 blocks there :P

As far as N1 blocks go, from what i've seen from someone cutting up a stuffed RB26 block and then comparing the UT thickness tests from a N1 block, it is thicker in certain areas, and not in others. Depending on what you actually have fail will it could be an upgrade or no better.

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When bmw wanted a block for their f1 engines, they used a moderate km used block from their road cars. The though was that the engine would have shown any stress by then.

A non n1 block would be my choice with a build; either rb26 or rb30. They are tried and proven for decent power without grout filling. 

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7 hours ago, sneakey pete said:

Unless you have a R32. no RB30 blocks there :P

No problem for Kiwi ingenuity - I have seen a couple of RB30 powered R32s here and I am sure there are more around...

 

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oh you can make them fit, but i've not seen it done without running a cut out vented bonnet (defect) and spacing the subframe 10mm and messing up handling etc

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I have seen it done under a stock bonnet and no subframe spacers 

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11 hours ago, r32-25t said:

I have seen it done under a stock bonnet and no subframe spacers 

Well that's pretty decent then. Retract my earlier statement :P

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You do need to cut some of the bracing for the bonnet to make it close but once it’s closed it looks stock 

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On ‎13‎/‎03‎/‎2018 at 8:40 PM, r32-25t said:

I have seen it done under a stock bonnet and no subframe spacers 

have you got photos to proof this?

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It has been done by Motor Sports Mechanical in their 8sec GTR  by using custom rocker covers that are 20 mm lower so it clears the bonnet with no cutting or spacing

 

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