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my goal is to break 500whp yet still be a weekend driver

What i have

greedy FMIC

Apexi power intake kit

Tein coilovers and dampener kit

52mill radiator  

Parts list.

Q45 Airflow meter $100-150

Plenum , fuel rail, throttle body $1000 (for engine clean up only minimal performance increase)

Walbro 400LPH $200

ECU I have a haltech platinum Pro ecu kit, let me know if I should upgrade this to make 500hp (370rwkw)

Injectors 1000cc $1000-$1100

Carbon clutch twin plate with flywheel $2500 (for $300-500 more but can handle upto 800 hp, if anyone gets a gtt to 800 please fill out your will)

Camsharft poncam type b $700

Cam pullys $350

And the big one GT35R turbo kit $4200

Whiteline sway bars $700

any tips or advice or different products i should buy? 

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ECU will be fine.  You might consider that the best way to make 500rwkW will be with E85, in which case you would require larger injectors.  Not to mention some serious fuel pump + wiring.  A single Walbro 400 will be teetering on the edge on 98, let alone on pineapple juice.

Poncams are shit.  Think about getting something with more lift.  While on the topic, seriously think about a decent port job.  That's free power right there.

GT35R.  Um.  How about something with a T4 flange and a Borg Warner badge?  Top mount manifold, big external gate, big dump pipe and at least a MAC valve required for boost control here.

You will probably run out of spark before you get there. So budget for an ignition upgrade too.  At least some new stockers/Splitfires, but better option would be a pencil coil of some sort (Yaris/Celica/Audi/R35GTR, etc).

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1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

 You might consider that the best way to make 500rwkW will be with E85, in which case you would require larger injectors.  

 

larger than 1000cc?

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Yuh.  Simple rule of thumb.  On petrol, on a 6 cylinder engine, each cc of capacity of a single injector is approximately 1HP.  1000cc -> ~1000HP. At the flywheel.  You take ~75% of that for conversion to kW.  So, 750kW.  You take 75% of that to account for typical* 25% chassis dyno losses, and 750 engine kW becomes ~560rwkW.  You need at least 30% extra fuel when running E85, so divide 560 by 1.3 to get a rough guide to how much power you can squeeze from 1000cc injectors on E85....It's only ~430.  A long way from 500.

* Aussie Dyno Dynamics dynos seem to throw about that much power into the air.  US dynos read higher fractions of the engine power.  Other countries/brands may be just about anywhere.

Now, keep in mind that the injector rule of thumb and the dyno loss and the E85 rule of thumb all have wiggle room in them, but realistically, not enough to say that you will be comfortably making 500rwkW..........And then I look at your OP again and realise that you said 500rwHP and that changes things.  That's only ~660 engine HP and therefore probably require up to ~900cc injectors.  So 1000cc injectors will probably do it.

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1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

GT35R.  Um.  How about something with a T4 flange and a Borg Warner badge?  Top mount manifold, big external gate, big dump pipe and at least a MAC valve required for boost control here.

so maybe this? twin scroll? (if twin .91 or 1.0) Borg Warner S300SX3 (S366) Turbocharger

if so can you help me out in picking a correct wastegate.

looks like i will need 4" dump 

and for a Mac just standard?

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There's a number of people who like the S series Borg Warner turbos....but that's not what I was thinking of.  I was thinking of their modern tech turbos, the EFR range.

I strongly suggest that you start reading the various (dozens) of threads on here that already discuss all these things.  Also go to the BW website and play with their matchbot.

Wastegate will probably want to be 60mm, or possibly twin 40mm, depending on the manifold and the turbo chosen.  True split pulse manifolds and turbos deserve proper split pulse wastegating.

When it comes to the MAC valve......I don't know.  I assume you will be trying to use the Haltech to do boost control.  I do not know what its capabilities are (whether it can run only one valve or if it can run two).  One is usually enough.  You are asking for high power levels, which means boost control quality will be important.  Using an external gate at least allows you to use a multi-port MAC valve to apply control to both sides of the diaphragm.  There's more reading in that for you too.

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On 7/11/2018 at 10:20 AM, GTSBoy said:

  I was thinking of their modern tech turbos, the EFR range.

 

so been doing some reading and i got confused with some stuff does this BORG WARNER EFR8374 TURBO have a inbuilt wastegate blowoffvalve and mac?

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You can get EFRs with internal or external wastegate exhaust housings.  The recirc valve is typically built into the compressor housing.  No, there is no "inbuilt" MAC valve.  The MAC valve is part of the boost controller setup, not the turbo (on any turbo).

I don't know specifically which housings are available for the 8374, because I'm not interested in putting a turbo that big on my car so I don't waste my time looking into it.  But there would have to be ~1000 posts on that turbo on these forums just in the last 6 months.  So there is plenty of info just on here, let alone on the BW website.

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The Borg Warner EFR DO come with a boost MAC solenoid, bolted to the compressor cover. It works well. In addition to the inbuilt Bov too.

IWG can be hit or miss with the EFR's. If in doubt, go external which has been proven to work great 100% of the time.

An 8374 will beat a GTX3582. Especially a GT3582. Consider a 7670, because that can and will do 370kw. (it has done up to 465 on E85 on some 2.5's)

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20 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

The Borg Warner EFR DO come with a boost MAC solenoid, bolted to the compressor cover. It works well. In addition to the inbuilt Bov too.

Cool.  Although I'm not sure why they bother.  Would that only be a typical 3 port valve to use with the internal WG?  I can't see someone with super tricky boost control on an ext WG wanting it.

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Eh it works as well as any 3 port mac valve. I used it on my setup when an official MAC product decided to rattle the center piston loose entirely. Can't say it was good or bad or any different really, but it exists and its something people are gonna need for boost control anyway.

Mounting a boost solenoid somewhere is always a headache of mild proportions, being able to bolt it directly to the compressor housing is nice enough. Makes for one hell of a short hose to the solenoid too, which is supplied. One less thing to worry about really

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