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Hi,
I'm in there process of deleting the factory heat exchanger from a rb26 block. i want to use a greedy/trust oil filter relocation kit.
What i was thinking of doing was, installing a oil pressure relief valve in the block. As the oil pressure relief valve is in the standard heat exchanger.
Installing a rb30 oil filter stud and sitting the greddy/trust (grex) adapter on the block. Then running my lines to my remote oil filter location.
Will oil pressure relief work ? will the grex adapter seal on the block ?
Genuine-Nissan-Oil-Filter-Pressure-Relief-Valve-15241-40F00-Nissan-RB.jpg.6f1ef36f39e8b030fe425a83ef81ae4f.jpgGenuine-Nissan-Oil-Filter-Stud-15213-W040A-Nissan-RB.jpg.63176deb5bb4d54058db17ef4157d66d.jpg37253670_10157611250223047_8495535437081739264_n.thumb.jpg.d6cfc9ca0e720558efc8b287b12c9c27.jpg




any experiences or knowledge will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

Genuine-Nissan-Oil-Filter-Stud-15213-W040A-Nissan-RB.jpg

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Your method would work but say if the centre bolt gets loose you're going to be in a world of trouble.

I did this, seals 100%

JHH Racing oil block, has 2x 10AN outlets, 2x 1/8NPT for gauges and 1x M10 for the OEM oil temperature sensor.

 

20171129_195751_HDR.jpg

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Im putting a heat exchanger (oil to water) in a car that doesn't have one.

Just be wary of your oil temps, my old RB25/30 with only a oil to air cooler only ever got to 90°c after being up it for a while, that was without a thermostat, during daily driving my oil was never really at optimal temp, unless it was on the track. I ended up making a blanking plate for the front of the oil to air cooler for daily duties.

My STI had a oil to water and an oil to air cooler with a thermostat (although even with the thermostat closed it still flows some oil), it took at least twice as long for the oil to get to temp, during cold weather the oil could take up to 15 minutes to get to temp.

Have you worked out what size oil to air cooler you need to have the oil  in it's Goldilocks zone?

Disclaimer: you may be all over this, my point is I've spent a few years of finding out how not to have my oil temps running in a safe place, or, having to drive like a nanna for 15 minutes because my oil temp takes that long to warm up, from my experience the minimum oil temp of 90°c should be seen before the loud pedal gets a work out, unless you like replacing bearings that is, ......apparently...  ,,???🤪🤯

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GREX plates all have thermostats in them, so it's not that bad, I also run a 25 row Setrab oil cooler (overkill, was like $50 to get the larger one, so why not? LOL)

What you can do on cruise/idle areas of the map is run heaps of ignition advance to warm up the motor quicker. Many OEM cars do this to speed up warming up the coolant (do it within moderation).

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Would definitely be in trouble if the center bolt came loose @Dose Pipe Sutututu

i didn't take what size oil to air cooler you need to have the oil  in it's Goldilocks zone in consideration  @mlr

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40 minutes ago, r34unit said:

Would definitely be in trouble if the center bolt came loose @Dose Pipe Sutututu

i didn't take what size oil to air cooler you need to have the oil  in it's Goldilocks zone in consideration  @mlr

How was your oil temps before?

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2 hours ago, mlr said:

How was your oil temps before?

same, fresh build, larger oil cooler (19 row to 25 row)

However in the past, oil would be about 85~100 on the street, and hard out at Wakefield on a 35 degree day would peak about 120 degrees after 6~8 hard out laps.

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43 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

same, fresh build, larger oil cooler (19 row to 25 row)

However in the past, oil would be about 85~100 on the street, and hard out at Wakefield on a 35 degree day would peak about 120 degrees after 6~8 hard out laps.

Seems like you have a good hold on your temps.

You got a big sump??

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I am also curious about the pressure relief, considering the oil pump has a relief valve to control pressure what is the intended purpose of this one? Is it there to prevent the oil filter from being over pressured?

I would not be concerned with the centre bolt coming loose considering a correctly tightened oil filter does not come loose.

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47 minutes ago, mlr said:

Seems like you have a good hold on your temps.

You got a big sump??

Before motor went kaboom, stock sump overfilled by 1L

Now, 7L ASR baffled sump because I am stupid and spent too much money on my R33 and should have just bought a fast stock car.

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55 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Before motor went kaboom, stock sump overfilled by 1L

Now, 7L ASR baffled sump because I am stupid and spent too much money on my R33 and should have just bought a fast stock car.

LOL, I resemble that

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Why does the standard rb26 oil filter housing have 3 oil pressure relief valves ? 

37292717_10157614494163047_141763543157440512_n.jpg

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First photo is heat exchanger bypass. Second photo just looks like it’s two filter bypass valves with one going past the oil temp sensor. Does the cylinder block have a blind hole where a relief valve should go?

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