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10 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Problems with boost tees are caused by retards using them.

It is funny to consider buying super afc in 2018. Don't do it.

If I go boost t how do I not be a retard? I hear they can cause boost spike and creap. How do I avoid the downsides?

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You will blow your budget if your stock turbo goes - I would stick to 10 psi. And you don't even need a boost T you can do it yourself (and buy a second hand PFC - save yourself a lot of wiring).

10min boost increase.doc

10min boost pics.odt

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Get exhaust done, then save up for new turbos + ECU + intercooler+ injectors + etc.

Do it once, do it right. Buying all that crap for a standard turbo seems like a waste.

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Surely these parts would be cheaper on yahoo auctions or croooober than buying through Nengun? Or even getting them shipped from Aus/NZ even...

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On 8/11/2018 at 9:10 AM, WantGTR said:

A lot of what you posted is junk.

Agree, too much w4nk parts. Fast and the Furious was so 1999.

Get a a HDi GT2 FMIC, Tomei Dump Pipe (they're actually pretty nice), whatever brand downpipe, 100cell Cat or none, decent 3~3.5" catback (avoid any homo JASMA shit), some form of air filter OR replace the panel filter element (I made over 320kW with the stock air box). DW300 Fuel Pump

Then get yourself a Nistune, a 3-port MAC valve OR Full standalone ECU such as a Haltech, Link, Adaptronic, etc.

190~210kW within reach "Stage 1"

 

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He lives in Okinawa (Japan), so would have access to tuners that like HKS computers more readily (compared to Haltech or Nistune), perhaps?

HKS Hi Silent is a good exhaust, far from "silent" (it's like minimum 90 dB) and doesn't have step downs (can see through the mufflers).

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Of you are looking at stage 1 upgrade, go for the following.
1. Power FC so it can be tuned properly. Or Go for a Heltec if you want to run E85 and or 98.
2. 3 -3.5 inch exhaust with a sports cat.
3. HKS air intake.

This is a good start then afterwards upgrage all the bolt on upgrades.

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