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Team,

I have some Tein suspension that has always been in my car and after my question on replacing bushes I was also looking at the Cusco sway bars.

Problem is I do not know my spring rate in the current coilovers.  They are bound to be stiff though as it is a rough ride.

Do I look to upgrade the sway bars with cusco items which are very stiff front and rear?  Do I use the standard links or is there something else you recommend?  Do I swap the coilovers out for some Tein Flex Z's with adjustable dampers and spring rates on those are Front 7kg  Rear 6kg.

If I do that how do I match the sway bars to those?

This is a street car 98% of the time.

Or do I go Whiteline which comes with a complete kit (links and all) and then adjust with the suspension shop to suit my current teins?

Thanks again.

Edited by Stixbnr32

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Do the current tein springs not have any marking or reference on them for model or spring rate? Should do..

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And if you have to you can always work out the rate using the method in the stickied thread above.  It's easier on coilover springs than typical OEM springs.

GTRs also usually do NOT have rates like 7F 6R.  They are usually very soft in the rear compared to the front (compared to the RWD Skylines).  This because heavy, understeery blob.

There are 2 schools of thought with this stuff too.  Heavy springs and lighter ARBs, or lighter springs and heavy ARBs.  Both give you the same overall roll stiffness, but of course one is much more compliant (with reduced left-right independence) and the other is tuned for faster bumps and has better left-right independence.  I recently softened the rear bar from a 24mm adjustable to a 22mm adjustable and made the car much better to drive.  Made both ends feel better, which was unexpected.  I tend to think that really stiff ARBs are more trouble than they are worth. 

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I concur. Ran the car with no swaybar for a brief while. Didn't stick with it, but did have some pleasant aspects.

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What is recommended for a Street GTR spring rate wise?  Keep in mind might do the odd track day.

Cool it goes into the shop next week to raise up 20mm (big sump to close to the ground) so I will get them to check spring rates for me and come back to you guys.  No point going ultra stiff if its not required.

Edited by Stixbnr32

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On 9/26/2018 at 6:04 AM, Stixbnr32 said:

Do I look to upgrade the sway bars with cusco items which are very stiff front and rear?  Do I use the standard links or is there something else you recommend?

Hello Brent,
Don't be afraid to upgrade if you feel the need to.
Swaybars are a safe enough swap for a commuter as you only really notice them when they flex (potholes rather than speed humps).
From what I have heard swaybar bushings are another important factor in ride compliance.

I think standard links will suffice. I believe adjustable endlinks are generally used to remedy misaligned suspension geometry due to excessive lowering and to balance corners via preloading. Might be excessive in your circumstance. Although you may want to consider refreshing the rubbers on the endlinks to keep everything tight.

I do like the fact that Whiteline provide a whole kit.

Keep us updated with the results!

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Yeah the whiteline kit looks really good and after talking to some folks I might have to buy it.  We will see how the car drives after I raise it the 20mm as its far to low now im older (had the car for 7 years) haha.

Just checking with a friend when he is back from holiday might be able to get a discount.

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Over in Subaru land, the Liberty/Legacy people had Whiteline anti-roll bar linkages break. Often.

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They don't look bulletproof no. However after breaking oem links, then mounts, i used the adjustable ones- advantage is more, to position them for correct movement rather than twisting the link/mount. Haven't had any issue with them.

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I would look at the cars handling characteristics and go from there, understeer/oversteer.

There's alot more to it than just putting bigger bars on.

 

I wrecked my old 33 by going to big with the bars and to stiff with the springs.

 

I sacrificed traction front and rear in the end.

 

From my experience, which was from doing it wrong, what you really need to do is find the spring rate for the cars use, whether it's track, street or a mix of things, get your dampers to suit.

Then after an alignment and tyre playing with tyre pressure see how the car handles, you may be happy, you may not, maybe you need to only replace 1 bar, maybe bigger, maybe smaller.

I am by no means an expert, as stated, I f**ked my 33 handling by missmatching parts due to ignorance.

SAU NSW had a tech night at Heasams (spelling?) not long ago, I went to one years ago at a different joint, from that night I learnt that I was doing it wrong (after spending thousands to make my car handle "worse"), they talked alot about springs/damper/bars/alignment/tyre pressure and how you need to look at it as a whole and not the individual part.

Rock and roll

 

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