Jump to content
SAU Community

Any reason not to use nismo 740s?


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'm about to put a set of injectors in and I can't seem to look past just throwing in a set of nismo 740s. I'm only looking to make around 300kw on flex, so I can't see a reason to use anything else. Doing a top feed conversion just seems like more work and cost for no real gain. 

I assume I'm correct in that the nismo 740s will idle fine, run e85 fine and cope with 300kw? So is there any real world advantage to using a modern injector, say ID1050X? 

Cheers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the price you pay, a little more gets you stainless top feeds - also you'll find the Nismo 740s don't really like low pulsewidths but if you're running E85 then you won't really get that problem as you need generally close to 40% more fuel.

Also modern top feeds, you can push more fuel pressure without sacrificing spray pattern and operation at lower PWs. A S15 I tuned recently has a set of Bosch Seadoo injectors that I cranked up to 4bar base pressure, and at full tilt gets about close to 6bar worth of fuel pressure.

Car idles better than stock :)

Here's a rather shitty guide I wrote a while back going top feeds:

www.trak-life.com/diy-converting-top-feed-injectors-r33-gts-t-skyline-rb25det/  

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The newer injectors whilst being excellent at high RPM really do shine at idle/low load, which is what these guys are trying to say. If you pick the nismos up for 1/2 the cost of new injectors then it might be viable, otherwise Bosch/ID would be best.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So if we had 2 identical cars, one running 740s and the other running top feed, the top feed car would have a noticeably better idle?

I've never been in a skyline with 740s but I'm guessing they idle fine? I just don't want to pay more for say a 5% improvement in idle quality

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you also considered that yes you want 300 now but that always ends up now I just want 350 and then 400 and etc, swapping to a newer style injector now could end up cheaper in the long run

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quality of life.  It's not just how good the idle is, which hardly matters unless you spend hours at traffic lights.  But better spraying injectors give better fuel economy, better throttle transition, lower emissions, bigger genitalia, the whole lot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have nismo 740's on mine. Idle on 98 is horrible, e85 is fine. Im making just over 300 rwkw on e85 and they get above 90% duty cycle at times. Go the modern injectors is my advice. The only good thing about nismos is that they drop in with no mods.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"if" you do go with the Nismo 740s, I still recommend changing the OEM fuel regulator, especially with bigger pumps.

Yes all of SAU and others will say "the OEM FPR will work and flow xyz blah blah blah" but when you log the fuel pressure data you'll understand what I mean. You get these nasy spikes between transient events.

If you do go down the path of Nismo 740s with an aftermarket FPR, steer clear from the SARD bullshit - they're horrendous, get at the very least a FPR800 or FPR1200 Turbosmart unit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glad this topic came up I'm in the same boat currently. 

 

Kudos Motorsports and golbeyautoparts to kits but I'm yet to contact them if the will be bolt in jobs that fit under stock plenum 

 

Waiting for a reply from Scotty 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, LWO said:

Sensible discussion with lots of freely given hard learned info.  Didn't know Sau still had it in it?  Hat tipped good sirs.

I'm happy to assist when someone asks a genuine question and actually have done their part in research.

10 minutes ago, Pattey21 said:

Kudos Motorsports and golbeyautoparts to kits but I'm yet to contact them if the will be bolt in jobs that fit under stock plenum 

Most aftermarket rails will fit with 1/2 height injectors (~38mm o-ring to o-ring).

On my R34 NEO motor, using a R33 plenum (long story) I've got Bosch 1550cc 1/2 height injectors with a run of the mill Plazmaman fuel rail.

Do not use 3/4 height injectors, you will need to grind down parts of your stock plenum to fit on R33 stock plenums.

 

Now onto R34 NEO motors.

Do not use 1/2 height injectors OR 1/2 height injectors (supply side) with the extenders to make them 3/4 height. They will not work, nor will they fit - regardless of what "shops" or "online retailers" say, you need proper 3/4 height injectors from the get-go. I put together a massive post somewhere on SAU about this. The only 1/2 height that will fit are those with the extended nozzle, where you can add a bottom sleeve (nozzle side) to make them 3/4 height. They're commonly advertised as Bosch 1250cc.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I'm happy to assist when someone asks a genuine question and actually have done their part in research.

Most aftermarket rails will fit with 1/2 height injectors (~38mm o-ring to o-ring).

On my R34 NEO motor, using a R33 plenum (long story) I've got Bosch 1550cc 1/2 height injectors with a run of the mill Plazmaman fuel rail.

Do not use 3/4 height injectors, you will need to grind down parts of your stock plenum to fit on R33 stock plenums.

 

Now onto R34 NEO motors.

Do not use 1/2 height injectors OR 1/2 height injectors (supply side) with the extenders to make them 3/4 height. They will not work, nor will they fit - regardless of what "shops" or "online retailers" say, you need proper 3/4 height injectors from the get-go. I put together a massive post somewhere on SAU about this. The only 1/2 height that will fit are those with the extended nozzle, where you can add a bottom sleeve (nozzle side) to make them 3/4 height. They're commonly advertised as Bosch 1250cc.

 

 

Okay cool,

 

So to be clear half height for rb25det r33, which is what i have

 

3/4 height for rb25det neo r34

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

^  correct :)

 

The setup for mine is really only going to make 230-250kw max. Setup will be hypergear 21u g2 (not g3) 350hp turbo,z32 afm and nistune and will only be running 98. Its purely a daily hence turbo choice. 

 

I was looking at xpurt 525cc or Bosch 550cc shorties as I feel anything larger is overkill and I don't want to sacrifice low/partial throttle driving and fuel economy.

 

With the better technology in top feeds would there be much difference in economy, idle and off boost performance between 500-550cc top feeds vs 1000's.

I appreciate going bigger allows for more headroom but i won't be going any bigger...famous last words I know

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, Pattey21 said:

The setup for mine is really only going to make 230-250kw max. Setup will be hypergear 21u g2 (not g3) 350hp turbo,z32 afm and nistune and will only be running 98. Its purely a daily hence turbo choice. 

I was looking at xpurt 525cc or Bosch 550cc shorties as I feel anything larger is overkill and I don't want to sacrifice low/partial throttle driving and fuel economy.

With the better technology in top feeds would there be much difference in economy, idle and off boost performance between 500-550cc top feeds vs 1000's.

I appreciate going bigger allows for more headroom but i won't be going any bigger...famous last words I know

During my yesteryears with my old 372kW R33 motor setup, I ran 875cc Siemen DEKA V shorties (aka 80lb). It idled dead on stoich at 14.7 AFR on 98RON.

Nismo 740cc would have not been able to do so and fart/pop.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm using a radium fuel rail which fits under the stock plenum and has -8an ports.

That'd be the go for an R33 as well. And Bosch 1650cc stainless injectors ftw. The injectors pop right into the rail no need for adapters.

Look at this, DONE!

http://www.radiumauto.com/Top-Feed-Fuel-Rail-Conversion-Kit-Nissan-RB25DET-P1038.aspx 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New R34 owned here (from the US) and found a gem, '98 GTT with ~6k miles, super clean & completely stock. When shifting there's no grinding, shifts smooth, etc. The concern I have are 2 things: 1) Only in 2nd and 3rd... when maintaining a slower speed (in traffic as an example) as I let off/on the gas, the shifter will slightly move and vibrate. If the clutch is engaged, none of this happens. It's not bad, but enough to feel like something isn't necessarily right. 2) This mainly happen in 4th or 5th... the shifter slightly bounces up and down, almost like it's riding on unbalanced tires (and I do think the tires are unbalanced as I get a little of that bounce feel at higher speeds, which is maybe why it only happens in 4th/5th). Lastly, and sorry for this noob question but I want to work on this car myself, can someone teach me some on these manual transmissions? Like servicing them, best products to use, etc.; would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
    • Coilovers aren't even the first step. Bushes, subframe position and alignment, HICAS elimination, adjustable upper arms and traction arms in order to dial out understeer. All these things need/deserve attention first. ARBs (There's no such thing as a swaybar. Please, everybody, stop calling them that) are useful if you want to limit spring stiffness. Otherwise you can control body roll with springs. Spring and damper rates are a function of road surface, speed and usage. There is no solution that works for all cases.
    • Define "nothing". Is the starter spinning but not the engine? Engine turning but not firing? If the engine is turning but not firing, then you are missing either fuel or spark. You need to find whichever has gone missing.
    • Shitbox Tiguan updates, got the APR OTS tune put back on (no charge for it to be removed/added back), didn't want to just come in just for that (not a fan of wasting people's time for nothing) so I purchased an APR dog bone insert. The boys at German Performance Garage said they would fit it for free too since they had 1x hoist free. Now that's service you don't normally get from most workshops. Anyhow, tune back on, snow grate pulled out, dog bone insert back in and not going to lie, a few smiles when I nailed it around the industrial area heading back onto the M7. Amayama also said 1 to 2.5 month wait for the RB25DE heater hose, yeah why not, car has been off the road for nearly 3, what's a other 2.5?
    • Hmm I'm going to approach this from the other side... What is the car doing that you don't like or what would you like the car to do that is currently isn't doing (handling wise that is)
×
×
  • Create New...