Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 GTR Build


Recommended Posts

Thought I would throw up a build of my R33 GTR. I managed to find a nice tidy example which had a few basic mods done. It had a set of Rota Grid 18x10 +15, and BC coil overs (which were wound down stupidly low). The exhaust was an aftermaket Y pipe and unbranded 3.5 system that was beaten to death thanks to the low ride height. Engine wise it is sock other than a set of Apexi filters and a Power FC. The car came with a dyno chart saying it made around 240KW on 12ish PSI.

2017-08-26%2011.00.19.jpg

2017-08-26%2011.00.09.jpg

I wanted to change a few things on the car to suit my taste and looks wise then chase a little more power. 

I started with the wheels as the Rotas were a bit tired and weren't for me. I ordered a set of Work D9Rs from Work NZ in gloss black, 18x10.5 +15.

2017-08-31%2013.31.29.jpg

A test fit showed fitment was solid which was good.

2017-08-31%2021.34.11.jpg

2017-08-31%2022.18.47.jpg

For tyres i went with Achilles 123S 265x35, the internet told me they were OK and it knows whats up.

2017-09-01%2017.41.56.jpg

2017-09-01%2017.47.54.jpg

I also raised the height up on the BCs as it was dumb low.

The exhaust that came with the car has seen much better days...

2017-08-27%2017.13.58.jpg

2017-08-27%2017.14.23.jpg

I fitted a new HKS 3.5" (sadly necking down to 3") cat back setup along with a new front pipe and made up a decat pipe with O2 bung for wideband.

2017-10-06%2014.07.23.jpg

2017-10-08%2016.11.30.jpg

2017-10-08%2016.11.37.jpg

2017-10-08%2016.12.00.jpg

2017-10-08%2016.12.21.jpg

Unfortunately the new front pipe (random China brand) sat pretty low and the exhaust was too quiet for my liking. So I made up a new straight through center pipe in 3.5" and modified the front pipe so that it sat higher for better clearance.

2017-11-23%2022.48.35.jpg

2018-01-20%2018.25.15.jpg

2018-01-20%2018.25.23.jpg

 

Edited by AntsR33GTR
  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The OEM front lip had seen better days and needed some repairs. I opted to go with a Aliexpress carbon (one thin layer of carbon and some fiberglass behind it) front lip lovingly made by a 9 year old in Vietnam. I also ordered some other completely useless carbon bits while on the Ali website. The quality is not to bad as long as you are prepared to spend a bit of time to make things fit nicely. Not for everyone but suited the look I was after.

Removal of OEM lip

2017-09-28%2016.37.06.jpg

"Carbon" lip installed

2017-09-29%2018.23.43.jpg

2017-09-29%2018.23.51.jpg

Also got this "N1" bonnet lip for the sweet aero effects...

2017-12-18%2006.48.01.jpg

It needed quite a bit of work to get it to sit nice and flush but got there eventually.

2017-12-19%2000.01.01.jpg

Rear wing blade also went on, fit was surprisingly good.

2017-12-18%2006.42.19.jpg

2017-12-18%2023.15.31.jpg

Jsai Aero side skirt extensions, rear caps and "N1" front bumper ducts also. Painted up the end caps in the garage, they didnt come out to bad and the fit is good.

2018-01-06%2018.53.34.jpg

2018-01-07%2008.53.19.jpg

Side skirt extensions fitted.

2017-11-24%2018.56.34.jpg

Last was the installation of the carbon front bumper ducts. 

2018-01-07%2008.54.15.jpg

That finished off the exterior stuff and Im happy with how it looks. Next step is some work on the engine.

2018-01-07%2020.05.04.jpg

2018-01-07%2020.05.09.jpg

 

 

Edited by AntsR33GTR
  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally I was going stay with the twin setup and upgrade them but everyone seems to be going the single turbo route these days so decided to jump on that bandwagon. The plan is start with keeping the engine internals stock and just doing the basic external bits needed to make a nice semi quick street car. I wanted to ditch the old school power fc and went with a Link as I think they are pretty good value for money. The car will have some basic engine protection added around fuel pressure and oil pressure sensors along with AFR input via an innovate MTX-L wideband. Turbo wise I would love to have gone for a BW EFR 8374 as the results guys are getting on these turbos on stock 26s looks great. However dude to budget limitations I have decided to try the EFRs poor little brother, the BW SX-E 8376 with a .92A/R TS rear housing. These are a journal based turbo that incorporate some of the EFRs newer tech like the billet compressor wheel. Supra and LS guys in the states seem to like the BW SX-E stuff so thought I would give one a try.

Started to order a few parts to get started.

Borg Warner S300 SX-E 8376

1548626721_2018-08-0119_24_03.thumb.jpg.62b7731aa3162a5ce8d988b7779aa321.jpg

Link G4+ and Siemens 875CC injectors

1840166537_2018-09-0214_11_37.thumb.jpg.f9fbbbafdb302cdcd74bbdd4383a54f1.jpg

Sinco T4 TS Exhaust manifold

1014506062_2018-08-1718_08.58-1.thumb.jpg.2df2441ece7427b7f20d0da873ded646.jpg

Turbosmart 60mm gate

2124691109_2018-08-0913_21_43.thumb.jpg.31f830ab4210cab394780f5b925e04ca.jpg

NZEFI R35 Coil kit

1210574854_2018-08-1320_09_53.thumb.jpg.0f0c15dca1151ed0b178370c4ea7354c.jpg

Platinum Racing Crank Trigger kit

228064925_2018-08-2715_01_45.thumb.jpg.f04d81f5339749353bb7b47e538de344.jpg

Franklin Engineering CAS Trigger Kit

1731393717_2018-09-2012_34_43.thumb.jpg.4829facb9748d47477b4c7fdad5f25a9.jpg

Fuel rail and  Walbro 460 

959684814_2018-08-2709_22_06.thumb.jpg.3be22c5526f1812205b8f8bd0049fcfc.jpg

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, UWISSH! said:

Nice work
In my opinion u need to get rid of the bonnet lip. They are supposed to go across all the way to the lights and doesn’t look right how it’s sitting

You sure about that? Most I have seen end 15mm or so before the edge of the bonnet...

image.png.7e49fa86fa0076ad85d835cb436b0eaa.png

image.png.cded04ce79cba36b102e276e99a1383c.png

image.png.120f5d50877e468ab1641e4a9a1ba8e1.png

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

After sourcing most of the bits I needed it was time to start pulling the thing apart.

1037422882_2018-09-1617_01_04.thumb.jpg.128efb3d8eacd020b2e720e3f3f7297d.jpg

Platinum Crank Trigger kit fitted up. This requires a small notch to be made in the oil pump housing so the senor fits correctly.

2099933038_2018-09-1617_34_28.thumb.jpg.1ee7b990d2c686b869d357ff6d2b3c10.jpg

Test fit clearance of crank gear to sensor

1995810244_2018-09-1820_49_11.thumb.jpg.6daa310e44659cdbf1c0036e4ab1fc9a.jpg

Sourced a set Tomei adjustable gears

1531676998_2018-09-1910_34_50.thumb.jpg.ee1961a6aad837f3b8d3357b83e78756.jpg

They went on with new cam belt and w/pump etc.

81125705_2018-09-1922_24_02.thumb.jpg.cde5d35577a2249637ddbea6167cfc02.jpg

Franklin Engineering CAS Trigger kit installed

491534564_2018-09-2021_01_49.thumb.jpg.89baf4810a019ec3e7d0d5568cd97f2e.jpg

1411156326_2018-09-2021_38_01.thumb.jpg.3ac0de80056244237dad95dc2eb416fd.jpg

Pulled out the old twin setup.

520580160_2018-09-2312_53_16.thumb.jpg.9cd8fb389bf3793bbf1bb4efeb3d6cd1.jpg

1363683335_2018-09-2312_53_08.thumb.jpg.a655e27cd7c8e63eb3d663b8040e8b0f.jpg

Sinco exhaust manifold installed, replaced all the exhaust studs with new nissan OEM at the same time.

1055512262_2018-10-0612_43_11.thumb.jpg.297a7228589f3625713fbdbe5c96cfd3.jpg

Turbo test fit to get clocking roughly in the right spot. One downside to the BW SX-E stuff is they are big, the front housings are massive in comparison to the EFR range.

1866638170_2018-09-2317_48_08.thumb.jpg.8831a3f42e10a39248dfaca1f9665d87.jpg

Intercooler and air filter piping mocked up. 

1475523820_2018-09-2522_16_18.thumb.jpg.b542352364d3767c9a1fee78976812ba.jpg

724698058_2018-09-2621_29_48.thumb.jpg.7926bd21e57d76a0646f7d2c88348f5b.jpg

Then me and my good buddy X Ray knocked up dump and wastegate pipe. Dump is 4" merging back to 3.5" Wastgate is 2.5". We sure as hell are not winning any welding awards but it should hold together.

352495902_2018-09-2919_55_20.thumb.jpg.f662f9949198972af22ea734f498c9d1.jpg

1744980621_2018-09-2921_30_35.thumb.jpg.68499cd47d0a959c51b0c084997a8b2f.jpg

We tried to keep everything tucked as high as possible for clearance. 

896516495_2018-09-3018_05_47.thumb.jpg.17a7af6f3695f8775c1a7d57a96d204c.jpg

X Ray had a random old power steering tank off some nissan which I modded to fit around turbo stuff.

1845730408_2018-09-3013_48_16.thumb.jpg.e03eb065fd39be3660d49def805dfdbf.jpg

Ended up fitting in pretty neatly.

114013046_2018-09-3012_18_17.thumb.jpg.bb04e3ee3c0f498bb40e5af972bdfcc7.jpg

Exhaust and wastegate fitted up.

1695196434_2018-09-3018_13_01.thumb.jpg.c051788b91b27730bfbe17e8ebdc2af2.jpg

Oil feed and drain completed.

1607042072_2018-10-0614_48_30.thumb.jpg.fde1afac9ae907534e4c348f9855ec0c.jpg

Made up a SS heat shield to try and keep heat away from wiring etc. Dump pipe will be heat wrapped also.

1957384862_2018-10-1101_13_52.thumb.jpg.5332ec68812f6d010a905ba83ae6f7d4.jpg

 

Edited by AntsR33GTR
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice build write up and I'm glad you're not sparing any expenses on your GTR.

Cosmetically - you need to get rid of the old an dated orange side and front indicator housing for some clear Nismo ones. Ged a set of N1 carbon fiber two-piece wing blades for the rear and that'll set it off nicely. The rest it is nice as is in my opinion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I removed intake manifold so i could give it a tidy up and it would make life easier installing remote oil filter bracket and making fuel lines etc.

1842943005_2018-10-0715_42_08.thumb.jpg.8f23c3c0006bbbd588bad0bfb81029b2.jpg

Decided to go with Aeromotive fuel pressure reg, added a pressure sensor so link can monitor things.

1999790663_2018-10-0717_37_47.thumb.jpg.97aa748f19844ee70845f6b0e461d95b.jpg

Nuke fuel filter

239611267_2018-10-0519_57_25.thumb.jpg.722b57bf93e77a2ee9ba3b1974327913.jpg

Made up some brackets to hole the reg and filter.

513699032_2018-10-0719_30_30.thumb.jpg.fe8ed2a8fe861aba59434d17e14c2be9.jpg

Fuel rail and injector installed and fuel lines made up

1915218641_2018-10-0719_30_25.thumb.jpg.0c190a9000e375dadf46a95b5d450e1e.jpg

I sandblasted the inlet manifold as the original paint was a bit flakey. Looked at the idea of leaving it raw finish.

252031823_2018-10-0820_00_33.thumb.jpg.21f188ca4a4bb7d1d8259a6f16c9051a.jpg

But in the end opted to repaint it satin black.

481795474_2018-10-2219_04_05.thumb.jpg.584eb0f0dbeca4cb48a880fc9cc9c909.jpg

Made up a SS oil catch tank using -10AN fittings. Has some baffling and SS wool internally to try and catch as much oil and moisture mist as possible. It will be vented under the front drivers side guard. Found a cheap window washer tank that was the perfect size so made up a small bracket to attach it. Disclaimer: I am a shit welder so no need to remind me.

1377223681_2018-10-1418_40_20.thumb.jpg.40766ad00816bcb70bb875ff02814d7f.jpg

Test fit washer bottle.

630957523_2018-10-1822_04_01.thumb.jpg.0e2fda818c99356d8d870dc65b3e6ffe.jpg

Test fit in the car.

940173382_2018-10-1822_55_43.thumb.jpg.4935f052e74b1c219ca07a67e368fa4d.jpg

Grabbed a bunch more -10 AN fittings and hose.1999007916_2018-10-1915_38_51.thumb.jpg.e9aa85e896ee6521f984178efeda18b3.jpg

 Painted tank satin black.

2080400903_2018-10-1915_41_50.thumb.jpg.d09f055fa36035b5458e10ad7f16f698.jpg

I removed the OEM push fit breather connectors going into the cam covers and installed a set of Franklin Engineering AN fitting adapters. These come with a tool to allow you to hammer them in nice and straight with out damaging the black finish which is cool.446799050_2018-10-1011_50_19.thumb.jpg.8a8ba165802a1a58210e451ec3688739.jpg

Made up the breather hoses and reinstalled everything. Used some AN divider clamps to try and keep the lines tidy. I still have to make up the vent line that goes to the external filter.

513830678_2018-10-2817_58_44.thumb.jpg.3ac5b854fbd031bec3c133ad8b8407fa.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Twins in the bin!

Loving the build man, btw.. pop in some aftermarket head studs such as ARP2000 to preserve the OEM headgasket.

Cheers bro, yea I would like to do that and some drop in cams also. Will see how the budget goes... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lighting in the shed looks real good! Not lying, have shed envy lol. Maybe one day I can fk off from Metro Sydney.
    • I would be cautious with those 2000/2200 CNG injectors, swap them out for a set of 1550 aka 1650 Bosch stainless ones before you take out a motor.
    • I tested them all a couple times, haven't tested it warm or wet though. The only seemingly really weird thing was the cylinders plug closest to the dash was pitch black nearly.  Doesn't smoke out of the exhaust or anything.    Also sorry everyone for the very late response. Got busy with work and all and didn't get around to fooling with the car for awhile.  But an update! I figured out the cause of the lean condition, my intercooler had at some point exploded or something. It's clearly separated in a spot with black oily buildup around the leak, and multiple leaks in various vacuum lines. I've replaced it and the vacuum lines, and gotten new clamps and there are 0 leaks now after doing a couple smoke tests.   The car now runs significantly better and the exhaust doesn't overheat anymore. I still have the main problem though where the engine feels like I'm lugging it around sub 3500rpm in any gear besides 1st, 2nd It's less noticeable but 3rd anything under 3.5k and I need to downshift or the engine is clearly struggling when trying to accelerate at all, 4th is the exact same, sub 3.5k engine won't accelerate and its hard to bring it back up to speed, 5th gear doesn't feel like the car is going to straight up fall apart now but it still can't pull 5th. It slowly loses speed and rpm and ANY gas I give I can feel the shakes from the engine and it slowly dying. If I ever so lightly give it gas it will slowly and nicely decel till around 2k rpm instead of lugging. But it cannot accelerate at all or maintain speed.   If I go from first gear at 5 or 6krpm and then shift to second it also feels like it's struggling to make power till above 3krpm if trying to accelerate but I can cruise around parking lots at around 1-2krpm just fine in 2nd. It's just when accelerating hard it and changing gear you really notice it die down.  But even if you shift at way lower rpms it does the same thing till somewhere above 3k.  As far as I'm aware it's got r32 gtr transmission gear ratios with gts4 diffs. The tire size is 205/55r16 91h Above 3500rpm the car pulls and runs and drives quite normally and the power from engine sounds and feels very smooth.  It's perfectly driveable at above 3.5krpm but I drive on the highway alot for work and it gets really bad gas mileage in 4th at 4.4krpm. Not that I'm looking for great gas mileage with such a car, just I'm sure being at around 3krpm would be significantly better for it.    Have appreciated all your guys help. I do understand the engine may just be f**ked from running with a boost leak though.    One final thing I'd like to add is I'm only shifting so high in the rpm range is because if I don't I will feel the engine lugging bad with 0 power in lower rpms, pretty much anytime off boost trying to accelerate it feels really bad.  Also when I say 3500 rpm I don't mean exactly. Just around there. 
    • So what did you end up doing ?  and is it still alive today ?    
    • I run 2 x 525 pumps on factory 8mm fuel lines     ... zero issues, staged of course    Your setup should work fine, all you need to do is find the restriction. A good aftermarket fuel regulator is always a good idea too. If it's not your regulator i'd be suspicious of your fuel tank breather and your tank pressurising. Next would be something with the fuel hat. Then blow out the fuel lines.   
×
×
  • Create New...