1991 R32 GTS-t sometimes starts

[RideForFreedom]

Hello all, I just bought a 1991 R32 GTS-t bone stock (minus a new cat back exhaust and hks instake) two weeks ago, with no issues other than a crap hicas (getting deleted very soon).

The car has started without any issue whatsoever and ran perfectly for these past two weeks until today. I was going for a drive with some friends who were on their bikes and we pulled into a gas station so they could fill up (like 5 min into the drive) and I turned the car off to wait. Went to start it and all lights and power worked, turned the key all the way to start, and nothing. Only a click from the clock area and the red hot cat light lit up a lil brighter. No starter, no starter click, just a turned key and acc (radio, toll card reader, and clock dimming) would shut off until I turned the key back to it's regular 'on' position. 

I had the biker boys go get a new 30A block fuse (one that goes under the hood) because it looked like it might have burnt out... 15min later and we put a new one in, turned the car on, and vroom it was all good.

Went for the drive, no issues, about 30min later we stopped by the beach to take a few pictures. Turned off the car, went to start it 3min later and same issue. No starting at all, and same reset of the acc. Started looking at everything we could there, still looked good, started looking up any info on my phone and only found the classic "turns over but doesn't run". No one with my issue from what I could find.

While on my phone searching, I decided "heck it, I'll try to start it again why not" and it started right up with no issues. Decided to go straight home to try to figure it out. Got home just fine and turned it off, then back on and it was fine. Turned it off and tried again but nothing, same issue as before.

We checked every fuse we could find (under steering area and hood), none had any issues at all. Took off the steering area plastics to get to the ignition switch, and saw that the brown base was slightly loose, although the screw was very tight. Tried to get the screw out but no luck, so we tried starting it again and it started right up. Turned it back off and tried it again, nothing. Same issue as before. At this point I have no idea where else to look, or how to get the ignition switch out. It's a saturday right now and I have a mechanic who's really good with odd cars and I plan on bringing it to him monday.

I'm open to suggestions on what to look for or try. I have yet to look at the relays by the fuses but that's the only other thing I can think of. If anyone has any ideas I'd love to hear them because I have no idea. Battery is also new and tested good. Thank you in advance!

[GTSBoy]

Something is getting hot.  Stops working when hot, starts working again when cooled down.  A bad connection might be the cause - possibly on an earth.

[RideForFreedom]

I was wondering the same thing. Only reason why I might disagree is because when I got home with it I didn't have an issue starting it right after shutting it off and the other shortest interval was about 5min. I'm sure it could cool fast it's just weird with it's track record. BUT you do have a point. A friend was touching the back of the ignition switch and said he thought it felt a little hot, maybe that's the issue? The switch going faulty after being used for the past 27 or so years sounds completely probable, especially since it has that wiggle to it. Might be a good idea to order one just in case.

Adding to that I did try to rig the "middle muffler" ground to the new exhaust but it doesn't have that area for the bolt to go in like the stock one. Don't think a ground going to an exhaust would be such an issue though, and why would it randomly work every now and then?

Only other "development" so far is the location of a classic "relay click" from that panel with the 4 blue relays and like 12 other fuses under the steering area above the pedals. I plan on trying to replace the relays if I can find some locally (300zx ones might work) tomorrow. I couldn't pinpoint which relay it was specifically (whole area had a vibration when clicked).

[Robocop2310]

Radiator, intercooler or thermostat?

I would look into these seeing the problem is heat-driven.

[Ben C34]

1 hour ago, Robocop2310 said:

Radiator, intercooler or thermostat?

I would look into these seeing the problem is heat-driven.

Not even close with that guess man........

 

It's likely going to be a switch or relay issue so you are on the right track. Intermittent problems are the worst

[RideForFreedom]

That's what I was thinking too Ben. I got the lower dash panel off on my hunt for relays so I should be able to get at that tiny screw that holds the switch tomorrow.

I have a feeling it's going to be that switch. Same kinda bs happened with my MGB brake light switch. There was nothing visibly wrong with the 4 components that touched each other but having a slight amount of play in it caused it to fail until I took it completely apart and "fixed it", but I replaced it anyway after.

Hopefully I'll have good news tomorrow, thanks for all the help so far!

[RideForFreedom]

Just got the new ignition switch, installed it and I still had the same issue. I could hear the relay click still so that's my next guess currently. I plan on getting some today after classes, even if they aren't perfect I'm hoping that they can give me a "yes or no" if they're the issue.

I'm still all ears if anyone else has any suggestions, and I really hope it's not something else cause I'm almost at the end of my electrical know how.

[RideForFreedom]

Also if anyone knows the diagram or which relay does what under the dash I'd love to know so I can pinpoint which ones are acc or ignition

[GTSBoy]

Download the R32 GTR workshop manual.  It has RB20/GTS4 wiring diagrams in it too.  Most of the non driveline specific stuff is identical between the GTRs and Skylines anyway.

[RideForFreedom]

Thanks GTSBoy I will!

So I after asking a few friends who know cars pretty well, they suggested an idea I hadn't even thought of. I was so preoccupied with hunting down fuses and switches, that I didn't even think the starter might have been the issue.

Sooo after installing a new ignition switch and swapping relays around with no progress, I did what my friends suggested, and tapped the starter a few times with a hammer. And what do ya know the car started right up like there never was an issue. So I just ordered a new starter from FRSport and I should be installing it this weekend. I'm hoping after replacing it my starting issues will be over and I can focus on removing the hicas system that decided to lock the left tire .5 degrees toe in.

Thank you all so much for your help, it definitely gave me new ideas on things to look for and hope that this problem could get resolved!