Jump to content
SAU Community

Single turbo upgrade - sizing options for a mild 2.6


shodan
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi SAU, happy NY to you all.

I'm looking into a power upgrade for my 32gtr, educating myself on options. I've done a fair bit of reading on SAU and elsewhere, and now I'm hoping to get some advice about turbo selection from experienced folk here.

Currently running:

Mild 2.6L with forged pistons and rods, fresh mild ported head, oem cams, adj. cam gears, JUN oil pump, extended sump, oem cold side, N1 turbos. With supporting mods this is good for a modest 281kw at the wheels on 98.

Goal:

380-400kw at the wheels, with a nice wide torque band and response that is no worse than current, and preferably better. This is a regularly driven street car that will see the odd squirt here and there, cheeky track days etc.

Some considerations:

I think I'd rather go EWG and get the manifold + wg + bov stuff done, in preparation for an engine refresh inc stroker upgrade in future.

 

Some of the thoughts/suggestions so far:

EFR7670 ewg 1.05 - highly responsive but limited to around 350-360kw on 2.6Ls?

EFR8374 ewg 1.05 - good power but better suited to 2.8L?

GTX3576R GEN II 1.06

 

Thanks in advance!

Edited by shodan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi SAU, happy NY to you all.
I'm looking into a power upgrade for my 32gtr, educating myself on options. I've done a fair bit of reading on SAU and elsewhere, and now I'm hoping to get some advice about turbo selection from experienced folk here.
Currently running:
Mild 2.6L with forged pistons and rods, fresh mild ported head, oem cams, adj. cam gears, JUN oil pump, extended sump, oem cold side, N1 turbos. With supporting mods this is good for a modest 281kw at the wheels on 98.
Goal:
380-400kw at the wheels, with a nice wide torque band and response that is no worse than current, and preferably better. This is a regularly driven street car that will see the odd squirt here and there, cheeky track days etc.
Some considerations:
I think I'd rather go EWG and get the manifold + wg + bov stuff done, in preparation for an engine refresh inc stroker upgrade in future.
 
Some of the thoughts/suggestions so far:
EFR7670 ewg 1.05 - highly responsive but limited to around 350-360kw on 2.6Ls?
EFR8374 ewg 1.05 - good power but better suited to 2.8L?
GTX3576R GEN II
 
Thanks in advance!
Go with the 8374. You will NOT be disappointed
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not likely a 7670 would be limited to 350 or 360. 

My stock donk Evo 9 makes 325kw with 500nm by 4000rpm with 24psi. A well setup 7670 should blow around 420kw "all in" give or take. 

Id say 8374 if you were prepared to go V cam. But i personally think itd be a bees dick too big for a nice street setup. 

Though in saying that itd still be on around the same time if not sooner than a set of 9s or 7s ?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Mick_o said:

Not likely a 7670 would be limited to 350 or 360. 

My stock donk Evo 9 makes 325kw with 500nm by 4000rpm with 24psi. A well setup 7670 should blow around 420kw "all in" give or take. 

Id say 8374 if you were prepared to go V cam. But i personally think itd be a bees dick too big for a nice street setup. 

Though in saying that itd still be on around the same time if not sooner than a set of 9s or 7s ?

 

This part might explain the power targets: Mild 2.6L with forged pistons and rods.... on 98

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If 98 is a restriction than that kind of power with "no worse than current" response is impossible.

That said, something 8374 sized is going to be a minimum requirement if 98 is a must have. With an 8k rev limit the 8374 is going to be my vote too. I had a 7670 on a 2.8 and it was nosing over up top at about 6800rpm.

This was OK for me as mine was a RB25 based 2.8, not a RB26 based motor.

This may or may not be perfect if you prefer revving to 7500 instead of 8500 depending on the kind of RB26 owner you are ?

To be on the safe side of everything I would be thinking something 8374 sized is likely the best compromise of running things with safe overheads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Lithium said:

This part might explain the power targets: Mild 2.6L with forged pistons and rods.... on 98

Ahhh Fuark what a dope...  Missed that bit! ?

Well then if 98 definately 8374 1.05 ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, Mick_o said:

Not likely a 7670 would be limited to 350 or 360. 

My stock donk Evo 9 makes 325kw with 500nm by 4000rpm with 24psi. A well setup 7670 should blow around 420kw "all in" give or take. 

Id say 8374 if you were prepared to go V cam. But i personally think itd be a bees dick too big for a nice street setup. 

Though in saying that itd still be on around the same time if not sooner than a set of 9s or 7s ?

 

Yeah sorry, didn't really make it clear I'm not running E85- fuel system upgrade is another phase for the future.

My N1s would be similar to 7s I guess, so I could live with similar performance. From the EFR threads I read several positive comments re pre-spool transient response

Edited by shodan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Lithium said:

This part might explain the power targets: Mild 2.6L with forged pistons and rods.... on 98

Thanks for pointing that out Lithium. I averaged that figure from anecdotal comments, from the EFR threads here and elsewhere. Can I ask about your experience or knowledge of cars with either 7670s or 8374s on stock capacity RBs? , you seem to be fairly involved with car dev in NZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/8/2019 at 2:05 PM, HarrisRacing said:

Go with the 8374. You will NOT be disappointed

I'm not at all surprised at your response 

7 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

If 98 is a restriction than that kind of power with "no worse than current" response is impossible.

That said, something 8374 sized is going to be a minimum requirement if 98 is a must have. With an 8k rev limit the 8374 is going to be my vote too. I had a 7670 on a 2.8 and it was nosing over up top at about 6800rpm.

This was OK for me as mine was a RB25 based 2.8, not a RB26 based motor.

This may or may not be perfect if you prefer revving to 7500 instead of 8500 depending on the kind of RB26 owner you are ?

To be on the safe side of everything I would be thinking something 8374 sized is likely the best compromise of running things with safe overheads.

Yeah 98 for now. E85 sometime in the future.. Good advice thanks mate. I did read your EFR thread comments about the 7670

3 hours ago, burn4005 said:

8374 because eventually you'll want e85 and 480kw+

 

I had 400kw, got over it and now I have 500kw. I like 500 better.

Haha I'm sure that's exactly how it goes. I have been considering it for sure. Just wondering if I'm better off with the 7670 for a boost in response now, (and live with reduced total power) then moving to an 8374 when i eventually go 2.8.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, shodan said:

Where do these fit in the Garrett pecking order? Better than GTX? different?

Brand new release for 2019 and improved over GTX range i believe.

Although have not seen any real world data just yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah sorry, didn't really make it clear I'm not running E85- fuel system upgrade is another phase for the future.
My N1s would be similar to 7s I guess, so I could live with similar performance. From the EFR threads I read several positive comments re pre-spool transient response
I'm telling you...the 8374 will CRUSH your N1s on boost threshold, response, overall power, midrange torque etc...yes on even a stock 2.6

I have a car with new -7, fresh motor, camgears, haltech. Then I just installed a .92 8374 efr on a stock 2.6 car. No kidding the efr absolutely destroyed them both as a better operating engine. I think it's pointless to go with anything smaller to be honest because you really don't spool any faster...only reduce topend.
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/9/2019 at 7:47 AM, Kinkstaah said:

This may or may not be perfect if you prefer revving to 7500 instead of 85009500 depending on the kind of RB26 owner you are ?
 

Fixed that for you

Mate of mine is doing a 26 7670 build should be running in the next few months, will be interesting seeing how it goes compared to my 8374. Can't say i'm 100% convinced its the better option for pure street duties, though wouldn't go a 7670 for the track etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • well, to check fuel pressure all you need is a gauge and a 8mm joiner with a gauge port in the inlet fuel line; if it stalls at idle when hot you can open the bonnet and check pressure at that time; the fuel pump is a potential cause for what you are describing but it could also be wiring to the pump getting hot. You haven't mentioned that the factory fuel flow control on the fuel pump earth is removed. So either way, it is worth running a suitably sized and fused wire from the battery to pin 30 in a new relay in the boot.  Use the ECU trigger wire into the standard fuel relay to pin 86. Earth relay pin 85 and the Fuel Pump negative (nice big wire for the latter too). Run relay pin 86 pin to Fuel Pump +. That will remove multiple possible fuel pump wiring issues in a 30+ year old car
    • I've been running a 525 for years with the standard hat and FPR in the stagea (mine has a 32 gtr fuel rail and stagea and 32 hat and tank setup are the same) without an issue with base fuel pressure. You said when you disconnected the return it is OK, did you do so at the fuel rail or the fuel hat? Either way I'd be looking for blockages or in the case of the tank kinks in the lines downstream Note I did however have an issue with the current required for the 460 melting the fuel hat.
    • I'm trying to maintain stock appearance . Hicas is still installed (although has lockout kit) did you retain factory fuel pump hat? If so I assume you used a bulkhead fitting or similar ?  I was also trying to avoid a full re design as it was previously dynoed at 426kw atw with same setup but different pump. Changing return line would also mean having to change ethanol sensor and fpr and possibly fuel rail. Not chasing more power in any way just reliability of the setup 
    • I do think it's weird I had it for 2 weeks then the issue came up out of nowhere and progressively got worse. I would've imagined changing everything in the ignition system would've resolved any ignition related misfires but still has the high rpm and idle misfires that seem unchanged. I would've thought if it was fuel related it would happen all the time unless it's the pump losing pressure when it gets hot. If it was the ecu I would think it would do it all of the time.  Something I noticed when I had it all apart was a pretty decent coating of oil in the J pipe coming from the throttle body. The weird thing about that is the pcv that goes to the intake is blocked off. So that has me wondering if the oil is coming from the turbo because that's the only thing that could get oil in there. This thing does sound like it spools like a mofo like I'm a former dsm guy and the only stock turbo I've ever heard spool this loud (to only go up to about 5psi) is on a diesel truck. And the recirculated bov is really loud too I had a TurboXS RFL and this thing is just as loud and being so low on psi seems a little weird. I don't know if any of this is or isn't related but just trying to make sure I'm not leaving any potentially helpful information out. 
    • So latest update. I replaced the ignitor with a jspec unit from enjuku. It felt a lot better at first although it is a little bit cooler of a day than it has been. Warming up didn't have as much misfire sputtering as before. Went on a 10m test drive. Felt good, a lot stronger though I was taking it easy on the boost. On the return trip started getting the cutting out at higher rpm again and was getting worse the longer I was driving. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Before turning the car off was getting the normal idle sputtering I was getting before.  So where I'm at now, entire ignition system has been replaced with upgraded components. Plugs still gapped at .8mm. Removed the fuel cap in case it was building too much reverse pressure I'm the tank, didn't help at all. Now I'm still on the same tank of gas the fuel treatment was in, I'm thinking if I can run that out and then refill with fresh 93 maybe  the treatment is too concentrated in some areas but doesn't explain that it only does it once the car is warm. I'm leaning towards fuel pump or injectors but if the injector was clogging I don't think it would make it shut off like it has but then fire right back up like nothing happened. So my current guess would be the pump. Without a fuel pressure guage no way to test or check it while it's running.  So that's kind of where I'm at. Need to start testing fuel components and ecu/wiring but I'm at a loss of what's the next logical step and procedure for testing it. 
×
×
  • Create New...