Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 O2 Sensor


Recommended Posts

All,

 

My r34 had an engine light on and it seemed the o2 sensor was dead as there was no input on my apexi turbo timer on A/F.

 

in the uk the cost of O2 sensor was around £150 so after long search of forums, I ended up buying one for nissan micra 1.3 1998 and fitted after changing the wiring on the O2 sensor so it could connected to the ecu connector.

here is another example of it in the uk confirming the o2 sensor works on Micra as well as Skyline

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OXYGEN-OXY-O2-SENSOR-for-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R33-RB25-SERIES-1-Series-2-RB25DET-/301405627170

 

The car was ok but still felt as it was running rich so I changed the turbo boost pressure sensor and still seems to be mis firing .

The Boost pressure sensor item number was PS660-1 Hitachi boost sensor which match nissan navara 2.5 td 2002-2005.

It costs £80 from a distributer in the UK if bought for skyline so i bought it for nissan navara 2.5 td 2002 and it was half the price and exact same part number.

question is, if the part number is the same, should it produce a same output regardless of car it was on ?

 

Could I have messed up by installed an O2 sensor from another car? I suppose the reading will be the same so it shouldn't matter.

Edited by drifter17a
Link to comment
Share on other sites

O2 sensor is likely to be fine.  Hell, 20 years ago I put one from a Ford onto my RB20 because it was the most cost effective way to do it.  As long as the sensor is the same tech, it's fine.  But where they are not the same, it's not possible.  The sensors on Neos are quite different from the older ones, for example.

The boost sensor, if it has the same part number, will be the same.  Couldn't be different.  Couldn't cause your problem, unless you damaged/stretched a loom or pin or something while changing it.  Also, they are completely unlikely to need to be replaced at any time, so you wasted your time and money there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/24/2019 at 5:37 AM, Rusty Nuts said:

Then its the same part, can't believe this question, you are kidding right.

trying to narrow down the issue by eliminating anything that could cause it .

 

I think it is due to having blow off valve so AFM is accounting for air that is getting released hence running rich and missing every  now and then. does this make sense to you guys ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your BOV is external venting and you have an airflow meter, then the setup is wrong and you need to get rid of the BOV and/or replace it with a recirculating BOV.  This is not rocket surgery.  These lessons were learnt in the 1990s and are excruciatingly well documented on this and every other such site.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Y'know what, after reading a topic on a 360kw build using a nistune (who ended up going LINK), im now considering a LINK over a nistune. The engine protection alone would probably be worth it. And id like to learn to tune so would be nice to have that safe guard. Which means i probably wont need a boost controller then, or the R35 MAF.  Becoming a bit of a blog now but oh wells. As mentioned previously, the goal is around 300kw, for a daily driver. Will be looking at fitting a highflow turbo or similar (something that doesnt require downpipes, manifolds etc to be changed out) when the current stock gives out or the money for it is there. 
    • Thanks guys. Are you meant to tighten the converter bolts through the starter motor hole? Think my plate between gearbox and engine is one piece. Im heading up there tomorrow.
    • Picked my tailshaft up yesterday arv!! Test fit it and because they've gone to a ford centre bearing and CV I had to modify the mounting bracket a little bit. 5mm of each side and she went up into position and fits well. It has a 1350 uni and flange on the gearbox end so it should be plenty strong!  Got stuck in this morning and started on the wiring mess. Cut out all the wires not required that go to the body connector and cut the engine harness out. Need to go through and work out which ones I need to keep and rewire into the new ecu. Should save a small amount of weight as well. I'd love to get in and rip the dash and everything out to completely remove wiring but cbf.  Next up was the power harness for alternator, starter etc. It has a few connectors from factory that run out of it. Cut it all apart and removed what was no longer required and put some new corro and taped it all back up and bolted it all back into place.  After that I worked out where I can mount the new flex sensor. Found a couple of factory bolt holes and drilled a new hole on the bracket to suit. Need to go get a few fittings and adapters tomorrow so I can keep going.   
    • Nah, im after the more newer looking, one with the OLED display
    • We revised the neutral wire instructions. The old way was wrong.  R34 gearbox change.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...