Jump to content
SAU Community

Battery for R33 GTST


mikel
 Share

Recommended Posts

My R33GTST has an alarm system, so there's always some residual current draw even with the car off - my car doesn't get driven much, so it lives on a battery charger getting trickle charged most of the time unless I know I'm driving it again the next day.

Sometimes it won't get driven for months, so the battery charger is a necessity!

I never seem to get more than 3-4 years from a battery - I just put my 4th battery in today across 12 years of ownership of my R33.

On a search here on SAU I found an (old) thread recommending the NS40ZLS, and the same recommendation on the Century Battery website for an R33.

The Century NS40ZLS has a Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) of 330, the Repco NS40ZLS has a CCA of 270 (Extra Heavy Duty) - IMHO neither has a high enough CCA for reliable starting, especially for an R33 which has the battery in the boot - don't get me wrong - I love the fact that the R33 has its battery in the boot from factory - but you will get some some additional voltage drop between the battery and the starter motor with a boot mounted battery.

I'm not bagging out Century or Repco - but I recall the the first battery I used for a replacement back in 2007 was an Odyssey with over 400 CCA.

Fast forward several batteries, and discovering my current battery dead this morning (installed in 2015 so it did OK) I went looking for a new battery.

After the usual web search and a few phone calls, I ordered an NS60 Powercrank with 465 CCA through one of the Brisbane mobile guys.

Did a re-measure and determined the length on the earth cable was too short for the height of the NS60 battery form factor...I remember similar issues back in the 2007 Odyssey install and moving the bracket up on the chassis (so 1 bolt not 2), but moved back on later batteries that were shorter... I never got around to getting a longer cable made ☹️

The mobile battery guy suggested a lower form factor (DIN55), which also had higher CCA (555 amps) and it fit nicely - it cost me an extra $20 for the extra CCA - and got the Skyline back on the road in the same day (today), as opposed to getting a longer cable made by an auto elec sometime next week - although I really should just go and get a slightly longer cable made.

The battery is a Platinum DIN55CMF with a 3 year warranty - I'll see how it goes.

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

They don't make en like they used to

You are not kidding brother, my mate has a taxi, he changes the battery every two years, compared to 20 years ago ALL LA batteries are shit, full of recycled lead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the Odyessy PC925LMJT in mine [boot mount std].  I have it hooked up to a Braille remote control that isolates the battery for all except the alarm - so I have to reset the clock and climate control when I use the car.  The alarm has its own power source.

I also wired in a small 2 pin plug above the number plate.  I use this to plug in a solar panel lead when the Skyline is not being used.  The solar panel is mounted on the carport roof and runs through a Sunergy PR1210L solar regulator.  My battery is over 4 years old and still going strong.  I think this is not so important in the summer cos warmer temperatures help with the chemical reaction.  But in the winter it is essential.

BTW, I fabbed up my own battery holder and brackets for this.  I also had to change my live lead and the lead from the Braille switch [one in, one out] to the harness etc.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/2/2019 at 6:32 PM, mikel said:

Platinum DIN55CMF with a 3 year warranty

 

On 2/2/2019 at 7:48 PM, Rusty Nuts said:

Pro rata warranty which is also shit.

mmmm - I shoulda read the fine print - interestingly the guy that installed the battery reckons he's never had a warranty claim on the Platinum batteries...we'll see how it goes...receipt photographed and stored.

I'll be happy if it lasts 3 years - if it fails before that there will be a discussion with the installer - but I get the pro-rata thing - batteries have a "service life" and wear out. Same with tyres/oil/brake fluid/brake pads etc etc.

If a battery failed 1 day before the 3 year warranty expired I wouldn't expect the manufacturer to provide me a new battery for free.

If it fails within 6 months that's a different discussion...

cheers,

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, mikel said:

the guy that installed the battery reckons he's never had a warranty claim on the Platinum batteries...

This statement reminds me of......" I promise I will pull out before I come"

The guy who installed the battery likes his job and his wage, he's not on your side buddy.Image result for sleazy salesman meme

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Get a deep cycle Optima, they're back to normal again.

next one - hopefully in 3 years

10 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

The guy who installed the battery likes his job and his wage, he's not on your side buddy.

He was self employed and chooses to sell that brand of battery because he regards them as reliable so he doesn't get issues...

...I get what you're saying - but I don't expect him to be "on my side" - he provided a good service, and Australian Consumer Law is "on my side" if it fails < 3 years

cheers

Mke

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've been running a 525 for years with the standard hat and FPR in the stagea (mine has a 32 gtr fuel rail and stagea and 32 hat and tank setup are the same) without an issue with base fuel pressure. You said when you disconnected the return it is OK, did you do so at the fuel rail or the fuel hat? Either way I'd be looking for blockages or in the case of the tank kinks in the lines downstream Note I did however have an issue with the current required for the 460 melting the fuel hat.
    • I'm trying to maintain stock appearance . Hicas is still installed (although has lockout kit) did you retain factory fuel pump hat? If so I assume you used a bulkhead fitting or similar ?  I was also trying to avoid a full re design as it was previously dynoed at 426kw atw with same setup but different pump. Changing return line would also mean having to change ethanol sensor and fpr and possibly fuel rail. Not chasing more power in any way just reliability of the setup 
    • I do think it's weird I had it for 2 weeks then the issue came up out of nowhere and progressively got worse. I would've imagined changing everything in the ignition system would've resolved any ignition related misfires but still has the high rpm and idle misfires that seem unchanged. I would've thought if it was fuel related it would happen all the time unless it's the pump losing pressure when it gets hot. If it was the ecu I would think it would do it all of the time.  Something I noticed when I had it all apart was a pretty decent coating of oil in the J pipe coming from the throttle body. The weird thing about that is the pcv that goes to the intake is blocked off. So that has me wondering if the oil is coming from the turbo because that's the only thing that could get oil in there. This thing does sound like it spools like a mofo like I'm a former dsm guy and the only stock turbo I've ever heard spool this loud (to only go up to about 5psi) is on a diesel truck. And the recirculated bov is really loud too I had a TurboXS RFL and this thing is just as loud and being so low on psi seems a little weird. I don't know if any of this is or isn't related but just trying to make sure I'm not leaving any potentially helpful information out. 
    • So latest update. I replaced the ignitor with a jspec unit from enjuku. It felt a lot better at first although it is a little bit cooler of a day than it has been. Warming up didn't have as much misfire sputtering as before. Went on a 10m test drive. Felt good, a lot stronger though I was taking it easy on the boost. On the return trip started getting the cutting out at higher rpm again and was getting worse the longer I was driving. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Before turning the car off was getting the normal idle sputtering I was getting before.  So where I'm at now, entire ignition system has been replaced with upgraded components. Plugs still gapped at .8mm. Removed the fuel cap in case it was building too much reverse pressure I'm the tank, didn't help at all. Now I'm still on the same tank of gas the fuel treatment was in, I'm thinking if I can run that out and then refill with fresh 93 maybe  the treatment is too concentrated in some areas but doesn't explain that it only does it once the car is warm. I'm leaning towards fuel pump or injectors but if the injector was clogging I don't think it would make it shut off like it has but then fire right back up like nothing happened. So my current guess would be the pump. Without a fuel pressure guage no way to test or check it while it's running.  So that's kind of where I'm at. Need to start testing fuel components and ecu/wiring but I'm at a loss of what's the next logical step and procedure for testing it. 
    • @niZmO_Man thanks for that info, lucky I bought the gktech ones 🤙.
×
×
  • Create New...