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All,

so almost all tasks are complete for my remap.

 

what I have :

blitz fmiz

oil cooler(to install)

spitfire coil

iridium plug

walbro 255(standard wiring, need to do direct feed)

greddy profex boost controller

Extreme ceramic clutch and flywheel

Stock internal, no head gasket or stud change

 

to buy:

hybrid turbo capable of 450ps

ev14 injector

now after reading hours and hours of forum , i still don’t know what I can reliably get from my r34.

 

some tunner say max is 400ps while other say they can reliably get 500ps as neo is much stronger than r33 rb25

My view is I can get around 450ps on stock internal. Thoughts?

 

now trickey bit is, one tuner tells me I should use link g4 boost solonoid which i understand is closed loop rather than my greddy and another say doesn’t matter.

which one?

 

i like to be able to have a safe boost setting and loon mode so using greddy enables that rather than having a botton to flick it on ecu.

 

any advice or thought is much appreciated

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If you have a Link it makes sense to use it to control boost (with a Mac solenoid). You only need one boost setting (why would you have an unsafe one?). Limit boost with your accelerator.

Yes the Neo has GTR rods. 300KW should be fun.

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One of the tuners says he wants the car for few days whereas most tuners say if you come in morning it will be finished within 2-3 hours

 

i am just worried that if i leave the car, they start taking parts of it or break it to get business

 

i am not been pessimistic but think some mechanic do this unless they know you else how would they make money

 

reading on uk forums, both have similar reputations but one wanting the car for number of days to do dyno and also road tests seems little dodgy...

 

is he seriously going to spend 4 days on my car mapping it??

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Lol..

Scaling up all the sensors properly, checking all the inputs and outputs are setup correctly already takes up a couple of hours.

Then you'll need to spend at least 2 to 3 hours on the dyno followed by some road tuning to refine it.

Now.. say "if" you've setup all your IOs properly and setup all your transient, cold starts, hot starts properly then sure..  2 to 3 hours is fine. However, I have NEVER seen a car given to me that has been running properly. Every single one has had fuel pressure problems or IOs setup wrong or EBCs connected wrong etc.

Also it's a Skyline with some bolt ons, doubt anyone will pinch anything if they're a large enough shop.

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What did you mean by never given a car without problem?

 

well guy is charging me £400 for dyno and that is for 3.5 hours and around £200 for fitting

 

the way i understood, fitting is very simple, fit ecu in case, fit and wire air temp and fit maps/boost solonoid

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5 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

the way i understood, fitting is very simple, fit ecu in case, fit and wire air temp and fit maps/boost solonoid

If so, why don't you do it yourself? :) 

  • Like 2

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Quick tune equals shit tune.

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Just now, Ben C34 said:

Quick tune equals shit tune.

They need the car for a few days to make sure cold start is good. That's them caring. Otherwise anyone can slap a tune together and send you on your way, to have a car that starts and runs shit when cold..

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A good tune will take a total of up to 8 hours depending on the variables (adjustable cam gears etc). The tuner will want to keep it overnight to optimise the cold start and cold running. I have never heard of a tuner breaking things to create more work but then you are in England!

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3 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

Anyone can slap a tune together and send you on your way, to have a car that starts and runs shit when cold..

Then blame the injectors and/or cams for the poor cold start, funny how many times I've heard this.

  • Like 1

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To get a tune right, like fully, fully, fully, OEM-Spec right, will take many days and many minor adjustments. Like Dose Pipe said, it's not that people are terrible tuners if they can't tune a car perfectly in 2-3 hours, it actually takes a lot of time to get all the niggles and weird shit behaviour out of cars when you tune them.

Having it multiple days means they can experience (and tune/fix) many of the drivability things that occur while driving a car that is not 40-200kmh pulls at full throttle.

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1 hour ago, drifter17a said:

Cold start as testing the car when it starts up?

 

 

What do you think? Does your car get colder or warmer when running? It takes along time for an engine to be properly cold, like overnight.

  • Haha 1

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I am overly paranoid that mechanic may nick something or even blow up the engine 

 

i am not there to see what they are doing..

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11 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

I am overly paranoid that mechanic may nick something or even blow up the engine 

 

i am not there to see what they are doing..

Sounds like  you need to sleep in the car while they have it. Check they don't blow up your engine. Best to book some time off work now and maybe hire a private detective to do surveillance also incase you miss something.

  • Haha 1

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33 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

I know it is silly but it is how i feel and find it very hard to leave it overnight

Dude, it's a run off the mill Skyline not some Ferrari F40 or Hakosuka.

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Whilst I have this topic open,  my boost gets to 11 psi on occasions when car is cold and when warm, it does not pass 7-8psi no matter what gear and WOT.

 

i don’t have a compressor so have bought a 65mm end cap and did put a tyre valve in it. I am then wanting to use my tyre inflator to check for leak. Is that doable or the tyre inflator will struggle?

 

is it a boost leak in your view or more a turbo problem?

 

it could also be my walbro is not directly feed but i can’t see any link between pump and boost

Edited by drifter17a

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If anything, someone who wants to keep the car to make sure they do a good job is the person you'd rather trust.

In the grand scheme of things, the car is not extensively modified. You're more likely to blow the motor up driving the damn thing hard than in controlled situations like any decent dyno operator will have on a dyno.

You did say overly paranoid. Try to be less of that, or at least recognize you are being overly paranoid.

"Car is cold" Car shouldn't be on boost when "car is cold"

Do you mean full boost when car is warm but it's 20C outside, vs same conditions but a 45C day when it's hot as f**k?

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