Jump to content
SAU Community

New member from Florida

Titan X

By Titan X,
in Newbie Introductions

 Share

Recommended Posts

mikel Community Regular

mikel

Posted
Posted
On 2/21/2019 at 12:04 PM, Titan X said:

Any suggestion on new injectors? Looking at the Bosch 1000cc injectors. I don’t want to worry down the line about replacing again if I do extensive HP hainsgains

Nice car - and welcome to SAU!

Looks like the steering wheel is still on the "wrong" side for you guys - are you allowed to drive them like that where you live?

I don't think you would ever need 1000cc injectors on an RB20, unless you fit a big laggy turbo and run on E85 fuel?

The new injectors these days can manage a wide HP range much better (ie a big injector can manage fuel OK for low HP) - but what sort of HP gains are you chasing in your RB20?

Checkout the RB20 turbo upgrade thread for info on getting results from the RB20

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103095-rb20-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/

I have an R33, so I've never looked at the thread.

I'll likely get flamed by the R32 GTST crowd for this comment, but many owners in Australia with an RB20 in the engine bay look to other engines if they're seeking big HP gains (eg RB25, RB26, RB30, 1JZ, 2JZ, Barra etc).

I'm sure with the right mods you can get your RB20 singing, with ample power for a street car - I just don't think 1000cc injectors is the best 1st step.

cheers

Mike

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Slap Rising Star

Slap

Posted
Posted

Your car looks mint.

Don't do to much unless you plan on getting another one that nice.

once you start modding it's hard to stop ahaha.

1000cc way to big.

Fuel pump and it's wiring and lines first then injectors. 400 hp is about topping a 20det so you only need the injectors to be as big as gtr stickies 444cc.

Front mount intercooler. (Return flow to avoid chassis holes)

High flow rb25 turbo

Zorst setup

Pod filter.

Bleed valve

Aftermarket ecu

 

That should be enough for fun

 

Start with a bleed valve and don't boost over 12 psi or you will break the zorst wheel

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mikel Community Regular

mikel

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, mikel said:

Read what Slap said above

apologies for the double post - not sure why that happened...bloody Tapatalk on the iPhone ?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Duncan · Posted

      I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • Duncan
      Manual Shifter slightly bounces/moves/vibrates when accelerating/deaccelerating

      By Duncan · Posted

      sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • Murray_Calavera
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Sleepergm
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Sleepergm · Posted

      Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • Murray_Calavera
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
×
×
  • Create New...