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Making my own dry sump


nik.
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Hey guys im looking to make my own dry sump system to go on my 1jz vvti in my s13 drift car but looking for feedback on my suggested idea as im not 100% and don't very commonly see it done the way i have in mind which is to have the external pump feed the original oil pump

abit of background - I have made custom everything mounting my 1j in my 180sx. I have recessed the firewall and pushed the engine back about 70mm over a conventional conversion and lowered the engine about 40mm. to accommodate being so low and far back I have made a custom oil pickup & baffled sump which was about 30mm shallower than the oem item and wider to account for the lost oil volume. I believe it was right around the stock pan oil capacity if not a touch over. Ignore the welds - It has been cut and rewelded 4 times now as things change to make it all fit and was going to be remade at the end once everything is definite and I know it all fits. At this point im just not happy with how wide and flat it is and i've gone this far with everything so would prefer to just make a dry sump now ( and the sump is a pain in the ass to make. I don't want to make it again lol )

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I was planning to possibly remove the bottom windage tray that you can see in my photo where im holding the oil pickup

then to cut a flat sheet of 3mm aluminium to bolt over the opening. Then I plan to cut a 250mm length of 2" ally tube in half and weld the half in the middle of the 3mm plate orientated from front to rear of engine as a channel for my oil to pool to make my scavenge pickups. I was planning to run a 4 stage pump with 3 scavenge stages and 1 pressure stage feeding my original oil pump. I was going to weld a piece from the oginal pickup point straight down through the 3mm ally sheet I bolt on the bottom of the engine to attach to the pressure stage to my existing pump then the rest of the system as normal consisting of Ati balancer and drive with a peterson dry sump tank and breather setup in the boot. Im trying to simplify the setup to reduce cost as locally the golebys dry sump is 9700. Im trying to remove the need for all the expensive billet parts that may not be completely necessary i.e lower engine pan, oil pump block off, bellhousing block off, rocker covers without breather ports etc but still gain the benefits of a dry sunp being negative crank pressure, consistent oil pressure and double the oil volume
 

 

 

Looking to run a moroso or savvy 4 stage pump but does anyone have any input of pumps to run / stay away from / what helps determine what sort of pump I run etc
Its the finer details im lacking i.e how to select a pump to suit my setup

 

Any help/ input would be appreciated!

 

 



 

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Short of buying an ebay bit of junk that a part of a valve spring has passed through, not sure there's too much wrong with most pumps now. Barnes used to be considered one of the best pumps made, back when, mate has an Autoverdi on his car that is very nice and there's a Petersen, scavenge only pump on the car here. Guess your biggest decision will be a gear v lobe pump.

Running a pressure stage to the stock pump, seems a bit curious to me. The sump here accommodates the stock pump, a flange sandwiches the 3mm al sheet sump and bolts on where the oil pick-up strainer would attach, male dash 12 welded onto that feeding from the oil tank.....and bob's your aunty.

 

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That is what I'm uncertain about too - having a pressure stage feed the stock pump 

My other option which I think you're suggesting the same - my tank will be mounted in the boot and will be level with the top of the engine if not higher. I assume I may be able to use gravity here and my stock pumps vacuum and plumb the oil tank feed straight into the bottom of the stock oil pump where the strainer normally attaches. Correct? 

 

I also had a look on us eBay, there is a ton of 3 or 4 stage pumps going super cheap so I may go down that avenue 

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Yeah, I'd think I'd choose one or the other method.

It's not as if there's more than a few thou clearance in a pump - a good one at least - if there's a mismatch in a drive ratio I could see a hose either being pressurised or collapsing under suction.

One of the advantages of an external pump, you can spin it up with an battery drill to get oil pressure, disadvantage, you can throw a belt if things come loose or the usual stone in the kittylitter happens. Seeing you want to put the tank  in the boot, I might use -16 feed too.

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Yea I will be using -16 for the feed as I'd rather have a larger supply relying on gravity and what not 

 

And unfortunately people from US won't send second hand pumps to Aus, or none that I can find yet. 1 seller said he had his item taken due to oil residue left in the pump and it violated terms or something etc. 

 

I think I will look into purchasing a 3 stage scavenge pump with no pressure stage but I just bought another toy so i may just produce the wet sump replacement pan piece then this will perhaps go on the backburner for a while unless i can find a second hand scavenge pump 

 

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Oil in a pump would probably make it dangerous goods for airfreight. If you went the ebay lucky dip route, some flare caps and tape would make it oil tight, but guess most sellers are lazy, otherwise one of the US >Au container shippers shouldn't have an issue with a leaky box, but that will probably end up costing more with port charges and all the BS.

If you discount the chinese brands, MSCN will have -16 hose. Fittings will be eye-watering even with discount, but cheaper than Earls at Silverwater! If you're getting a pump from the States and a load of that stuff also, might look at https://www.anplumbing.com/....at least you should avoid the 10% surcharge from the usual suspects.

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