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G'day, thought I'd add my two cents on a few of the points raised. 

Just to clarify, 50:50 water meth mix does burn, whether you mixed it by weight or by volume. I conducted this test recently and was surprised by the results. 

If you plan on tuning the car to be water  meth dependant, make sure you have some kind of fail safe. I have done a number of setups using various brands of ecus, including Link. I usually use the 0-5v input from the flow sensor to activate overlay ignition table and fuel trim. If the voltage goes over or under a set window, due to a flow fault, it will deactivate the overlay tables, keeping the engine safe. I have only set done this up using Aquamist systems so I'm not sure if the system you are using has this capability. 

Cheers.  

 

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32 minutes ago, JGB1600 said:

Just to clarify, 50:50 water meth mix does burn, whether you mixed it by weight or by volume.

How did you test that? When I did it no way would it light. I used a spray bottle onto a flame and it always put it out.

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1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

How did you test that? When I did it no way would it light. I used a spray bottle onto a flame and it always put it out.

I tested it with 100ml of 50 50 by weight and again by mass. Poured them into small containers and lit them up. 

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A pool fire is a different thing.  The fame you bring to the surface heats the liquid, evaporating some methanol, which burns in the vapour phase on top of the pool.

A spray of 50:50 stands a good chance of smothering another flame, because there is so much ability for the spray's latent heat of evaporation to steal more heat than the flame can maintain.

/rocket science.

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16 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

my bloody water pipe keeps popping out of the nozzle.

I have made sure the head is round and it is firmly pushed into the pneumatic head.

Could it be cable needs to have more loose section as vibration could be pulling it out ?

 

Could be. Those aem nozzles use a 1/4" push fit, what diameter tube are you using? 6mm tube fits and will pretty much fall out.

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This might sound a bit stupid, but why do you need water / methanol injection to cool your charge unless your intercooler setup is garbage ? Plenty of 600 -700 Aussie kw at wheels setups without the need for it.

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I know

 

my intercooler is blitz so i would have hoped it is well known

 

can’t get hold of my tuner to confirm how car has been setup but very strange as at times it boosts to 17.2 psi and at times 15

 

Almost always boosts to 17 on cold but as soon as warm it is hit and miss so unsure of what it is

 

i assumed he is using air intake temp to control boost so using water injection to cool the temp

 

anyway engine runs better with cooler temp

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I run a Blitz LM spec 100mm on my 33 Gtr. 98 unleaded, 330kw at wheels, 22psi, HKS GT-SS turbos, stock radiator, stock thermostat, 700cc injectors, power fc, nismo 280l/hr fuel pump,  stock gtr intercooler piping, stock long engine. Just had hottest summer here with temps over 45 deg C for 4 months, no dramas. Something else is up with your setup.

Something tells me maybe you don't have what you think you have as the Blitz 100mm LM intercooler has less than 1 psi pressure drop at 1.5bar / 22 psi across core and cools enough for stupid hp.

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11 hours ago, drifter17a said:

I know

 

my intercooler is blitz so i would have hoped it is well known

 

can’t get hold of my tuner to confirm how car has been setup but very strange as at times it boosts to 17.2 psi and at times 15

 

Almost always boosts to 17 on cold but as soon as warm it is hit and miss so unsure of what it is

 

i assumed he is using air intake temp to control boost so using water injection to cool the temp

 

anyway engine runs better with cooler temp

 

7 hours ago, BK said:

 

Don't worry about contacting your tuner. Get on this forum

https://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/

and ask around for a tuner near you who has good knowledge of the RB engines.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Why would your intercooler heat soak on the dyno???  Didn't he have a big MuthaF@#king fan going hard on the front of the car?

WMI is to reduce knock when winding up the boost for more power.  Its a way of extending the mechanics limiting your existing setup.  Its not a bandaid for your problem.

And you probably should have asked on here before buying, the Snow performance Stage !!! and [from what others have said] Aquamist are the better systems because you can progressively add WMI using both vacuum/boost and IDC.

I have set mine to IDC 40% and all in by 70% AND 8psi and all in by 14psi.

Snow Performance sell a very neat solenoid valve for gravity drain.

 

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