Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Drivers side door wont lock with key


blitzer31
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi All, 

Strange issue in the R33 I just purchased. 

The drivers side door wont lock or open with the key, can lock from inside when flicking the latch. Did some investigation, removed the door interior trim and found that there is a rod from the key lock just dangling/hanging down not attached to anything. I would think that this rod would attach to the actuator but I can't see anywhere on the actuator this rod would link to. I see other rods link to the actuator using colour coded clips but cant find where this one goes. 

Anyone have suggestions?

Ill post pics this weekend. 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey GTSBoy, 

Thanks for your quick reply mate.

Yeah I did that. Seems to be different from the otherside. Ill check again on the weekend. 

for reference, it's this is the ROD but on mine I can't seem to hook it into the actuator. 

I must be missing something here. 

L451059A.jpg 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Guys,

Thought I would let everyone know I found the issue. The rod going from the door key lock had like a piece attached to it, like one of the rod connectors, this one was yellow. This was just dangaling. Using the above image as a reference, I removed the actuator and found that this yellow attachment actually should be attached directly to the actuator in a special slot. It's kind like a pivot arm.

I think a repair was done to the plastic part of the actuator but failed causing it to just dangle down from the key lock. 

Super glued it all back together and works perfectly. 

Attached are some photos. 

20190416_170625.jpg

20190416_195422.jpg

20190416_195407.jpg

20190416_195402.jpg

20190416_195330.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the pic in the first post is another car, and post 7 is OP's car with standard arms and swaybar swaybar swaybar. I can't tell what brand the silver coilovers are, and even if I could I don't know whether the spring rate is OK, if you can find a brand on the shocks and numbers on the springs that might help. Also, if you can measure the ride height from centre of your wheel to the guard that will help with advice too as handling suffers if ride height is too low
    • sadly, pics no work. that car must have spent a lot of time in a cryo bubble
    • In the first photo you posted, the colour of the control arms are the signature colour for Ikeya. Same for the swaybar, signature colour for Whiteline.  I like Hardrace, they also do hardened rubber bushes if your car is mainly a street car.  I like GKTech as well, but they use a lot of rose joints in their stuff so might not be the best choice for everyone.  The system might have been good back in its day, but it's a prehistoric system now. I suspect that most people have removed the HICAS as they want the car to do what they want to do, not what the car wants to do. From what I also understand, it isn't consistent in it's behaviour on track so it's hard to trust the car/know where its absolute limits are for track use.  Having said that, I think the HICAS eliminator kit was the first thing I installed when I bought my car. I don't personally have any experience with the HICAS system on a race track.  
    • Thanks for the info. Didn’t know I had aftermarket control arms already? Will talk to my garage. What brand would u recommend if I want to play around with my camber more? I would think my camber is around stock level right now or more negative now due to lowering with coilovers. I will be lower her again 1.5 cm to get some more.    also why does everyone like to remove the hicas system? Is it because most don’t work properly anymore or ppl just don’t like them. Mine is functioning as it should be right now.    thanks for the good info 
    • It looks like you've got Ikeya control arms and an aftermarket sway bar, maybe whiteline?  Or am I just going crazy? lol Unfortunately it won't, but what it will do is look really pretty. That's about all unfortunately.  How much neg camber do you currently have? Generally lowing the car dials in quite a bit of neg camber as it is. If you do go down this path, your best bet is get adjustable arms, toe arms (or preferably a good HICAS elimination kit) and traction rods. With all 3 being adjustable, you'll be able to dial out any bump steer that is introduced by playing with the camber settings. 
×
×
  • Create New...