Jump to content
SAU Community

Timing belt installation

angakh
 Share

Recommended Posts

angakh Apprentice

angakh

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone. I have read up and watched a lot of content regarding the timing belt replacement for an RB26, but in all of these posts the engine seems to always be out of the car. Does anyone have experience with replacing the timing belt while the engine is still in the car? Is it so bad that taking the engine out and doing it is the prefered method? Please advise. Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Nobody takes their engine out to change the timing belt. There are a few "how to"s  in this site e.g.

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73824-adj-camshaft-pulley-new-cam-belt/

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Blakeo Rising Star

Blakeo

Posted
Posted

Easy enough to do with engine in the car. Just make sure you properly torque up the harmonic balancer as to not damage the woodruff key. Need to torque RB26 balancer to 300NM I believe but double check this. Always use a new balancer bolt. 

Apart from that follow the factory service manual 100%.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

How about 446 - 466 odd Nm as per GTR manual. It's stupidly tight ! Every time I do one I think I'm going to snap the bolt off in the crank when you get near 400Nm. Accepted torque is to get 400Nm or better max realistically, and that is generally with a 3/4" breaker bar with over 1 metre length with flywheel locked properly.

How's this - RB25DET is 142 - 152 NM in comparison on harmonic balancer bolt tension. Explain more than triple the tension between 25 and 26 Nissan ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, BK said:

How's this - RB25DET is 142 - 152 NM in comparison on harmonic balancer bolt tension. Explain more than triple the tension between 25 and 26 Nissan ?

Yeah, don't get that...plenty of big hp and mercilessly flogged track Gtst's out there easily doing what a std 26 can do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Chris_Guthrie
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By Chris_Guthrie · Posted

      I do think it's weird I had it for 2 weeks then the issue came up out of nowhere and progressively got worse. I would've imagined changing everything in the ignition system would've resolved any ignition related misfires but still has the high rpm and idle misfires that seem unchanged. I would've thought if it was fuel related it would happen all the time unless it's the pump losing pressure when it gets hot. If it was the ecu I would think it would do it all of the time.  Something I noticed when I had it all apart was a pretty decent coating of oil in the J pipe coming from the throttle body. The weird thing about that is the pcv that goes to the intake is blocked off. So that has me wondering if the oil is coming from the turbo because that's the only thing that could get oil in there. This thing does sound like it spools like a mofo like I'm a former dsm guy and the only stock turbo I've ever heard spool this loud (to only go up to about 5psi) is on a diesel truck. And the recirculated bov is really loud too I had a TurboXS RFL and this thing is just as loud and being so low on psi seems a little weird. I don't know if any of this is or isn't related but just trying to make sure I'm not leaving any potentially helpful information out. 
    • Chris_Guthrie
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By Chris_Guthrie · Posted

      So latest update. I replaced the ignitor with a jspec unit from enjuku. It felt a lot better at first although it is a little bit cooler of a day than it has been. Warming up didn't have as much misfire sputtering as before. Went on a 10m test drive. Felt good, a lot stronger though I was taking it easy on the boost. On the return trip started getting the cutting out at higher rpm again and was getting worse the longer I was driving. Took it easy the rest of the way home. Before turning the car off was getting the normal idle sputtering I was getting before.  So where I'm at now, entire ignition system has been replaced with upgraded components. Plugs still gapped at .8mm. Removed the fuel cap in case it was building too much reverse pressure I'm the tank, didn't help at all. Now I'm still on the same tank of gas the fuel treatment was in, I'm thinking if I can run that out and then refill with fresh 93 maybe  the treatment is too concentrated in some areas but doesn't explain that it only does it once the car is warm. I'm leaning towards fuel pump or injectors but if the injector was clogging I don't think it would make it shut off like it has but then fire right back up like nothing happened. So my current guess would be the pump. Without a fuel pressure guage no way to test or check it while it's running.  So that's kind of where I'm at. Need to start testing fuel components and ecu/wiring but I'm at a loss of what's the next logical step and procedure for testing it. 
    • couchboy
      R32 skyline gtst 2wd swaybar end links

      By couchboy · Posted

      @niZmO_Man thanks for that info, lucky I bought the gktech ones 🤙.
    • niZmO_Man
      Should you buy cheap Chinese tyres?

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      Never cheap out on brakes, tyres, suspension. I learnt the hard way at Oran Park lol
    • niZmO_Man
      20 years of membership this year!

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      the good old days
×
×
  • Create New...