Wanted: Base map for rb25det (r33) for an EMS Stinger v4

[Charlie1234]

Hey all,

 

I recently lost the base tune i had on my rb25det r33 (long story) and I was hoping someone had a base map for an EMS Stinger V4.

The software does come with some base tunes, but they aren't very specific, and have not worked for me thus far.

The only thing that isn't stock is 740cc injectors, but I plan to just adjust the fuel trim in order to compensate for that temporarily until I can get it to a tuner.

 

Thanks in advance, You guys are all legends

 

Charlie

[Murray_Calavera]

Hey mate, 

With the base tunes that have been supplied, what issues are you having? 

I don't have any base maps for that ecu but getting a car running (not tuned) shouldn't take much time at all. 

I'm guessing you aren't intending to tune it yourself as you mention you want to get it to a tuner. Are you just trying to get it to a state that you can drive it on to a trailer? 

 

[Charlie1234]

Hoping to get it to a point where I can drive it around under 4k rpm. 

 

I called my tuner and he said I should be able to just adjust the fuel trim enough to drive it to the Dyno, but I don't have a good base tune.

 

I can get the car running but barely moveable 

[Murray_Calavera]

yeah ok, lets just tick off a few things to see if this is doable - 

Do you have a wideband sensor and are able to log data to a laptop? 

Can you post a picture of your base timing map? (if you know what safe timing looks like and your base map is ok, feel free to skip this)

How comfortable are you doing this? I'm guessing your tuning will be done in VE, do you understand what your changing when you change the numbers in the map? 

Also feel free to post up your fuel map, we might be able to give you suggested numbers that get you half way there. 

[Charlie1234]

I'm honestly unsure if I have a wideband. I have 2 sensors in the exhaust, one right after the turbo that is a 3 wire (I'm assuming that's just the normal O2 sensor) and a second just before the cat, I'm unsure how many wires that is and I unfortunately can't check right now.

 

I don't have a laptop to use, I have hooked it up and played around with the EMS stinger software a bit, done some reading and all that.

I have a pretty good idea of how the tuning works, main problem I'm having atm is not being able to read my afr in the software, it simply stays at 22. (I have tested removing the O2 sensor directly after the turbo and leaving it out in the open air, still reads 22, so I don't believe it's working correctly but I do have a new one on the way) 

I'm not sure what you mean by 'VE' and yes I can get you a picture of the current maps and settings.

[Murray_Calavera]

Unfortunately at this stage, I think this little project is a no-go. 

While technically you could do this without a wideband sensor, I consider it mandatory and it's not something I would attempt without it. Also you will need a laptop to be able to make changes to the tune as you drive around (drive, log, review the data, adjust, rinse-repeat)

When I say VE I mean, Volumetric Efficiency. It should be one of the tuning options in your ECU software. 

I'm curious, how did you hook up your ECU and play around without a laptop? 

[Charlie1234]

Stupid autocorrect on my phone, I DO have a laptop and the software. And if a wideband is required and I don't have one, then how was the car tuned previously? As it did have a previous tune that was erased 

[Murray_Calavera]

The car gets a sniffer up the butt when it goes on the dyno lol 

So the car will be tuned with the wideband sensor inserted up the exhaust, all fuel and timing tables sorted etc. Full tune happy days. You drive out of the tuners workshop, and provided everything stays the same the tune stays perfect.

Driving in the real world is different to being on the dyno, I wouldn't consider a car completely tuned until it has had a road tune as well - however the average bear is probably happy enough with a dyno only tune. 

Also the average bear is probably happy not having engine protection setup. There are a lot of other reasons to run a wideband sensor but I'll cut my rant short here. 

[Charlie1234]

Makes sense.

Here are the fuel map, ignition map and setup.

Fuel map is basically the base tune -50% fuel trim as the injectors are twice the size of stock.

 

[KiwiRS4T]

I don't know anything about your ecu (EMS stinger not a common sight around these parts) but wouldn't having both rev limiters set to 0 be a problem?

[Murray_Calavera]

The ignition map has the pressure axis cut off, however I assume its the same scale as the fuel map. 

The short version is, none of these numbers make sense to me. Have a look around in your ECU settings and see if this is an injection time or VE based map. Either way, the numbers don't make sense for either tuning method. That only really leaves lambda correction tuning method, however the numbers aren't even remotely close to resembling that tuning method. 

If it is the case that you plug in an actual rev limit and the car fires and somehow runs, please DO NOT drive this car at all in this state of tune. If I'm reading that timing map correctly, for example 35 degrees advanced at 150kpa and 7000rpm, that is total madness to have as a base map. 

I'm just speaking for your engine that has no voice, please don't try and tune this car at this point in time. If looking at these fuel and ignition maps didn't throw up massive red flags, I don't think you're current experience is at a level to be road tuning a car. 

Also you need that wideband sensor before you can really do anything. 

There are a lot of options out there now to start getting your head around tuning. If you get your car setup and want to learn to tune, I'm happy to point you in the right direction and I'm sure others would be happy to share their story about how they learnt to tune. 

[Ben C34]

Tow car to tuner. That's the only sensible thing unless you want to spend months learning how to tune.

For injector change you dont change the fuel map. So straight away you are off down the wrong path