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Hello,

So I bought a relatively stock R34 GTR and after 500kms (all was working fine) the engine just shutdown on the highway.

The engine is cranking but refuse to start again.

 

So in the correct order, I checked using the supplement service manual:

-no engine light at any moment

-fuel pump (I can hear it when I switch on the key and the fuel pipe gets hard)

-checked all the fuses next to the throttle pedal and also in the engine bay

-self diagnostic give me error 55 (so no malfunction)

-I have 12V to the coil ignition on the power pin of this coil

-I don't have an oscilloscope however when cranking the engine I must see like 0.06V to 0.09V on the command of the coil ignition using a multimeter but I got 0v on each command of the spark plug

-wiring of the ignition coil is okay (continuity test)

-There was an aftermarket ignition control box (adic siccle advanced ignition control) connected to the ECM; so I removed it however after doing so I got error 20 ? (the orignal hairness seems to be intact !)

-I open the ECM but didn't find anything bad (bad soldering, blow components ...)

 

So this investigation supposed that the ECM is not working properly ?!

 

Question :

-what is error code 20 ?

-if the ECM is working fine; what are the causes that avoid it to command the ignition coils ?

 

There is also an aftermarket alarm I normally desarm it (using the key fob) code alarm PF7600 I don't think there is a relation to my problem but I mention this.

 

Thanks for any hint

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There is no ECU code 20 for GTRs, unless they've added some secret sauce to the R34 that wasn't in the earlier ones. (although 21 is the ignition circuit.....you sure you got 20 and not 21?)

A multimeter cannot be substituted for an oscilloscope unless you're looking for a steady voltage. They are not fast enough to see brief signals.

I would say the ADIC is responsible. You'd best base your research around it.

 

Edited by GTSBoy

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Symptoms sound similar to when my CAS went

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My GTR was build in 08/1999

Well I'm sure it's 20; two long blink followed by a pause of like 5 seconds and then again 2 long blink.

Yes I know for the multimeter but that's only what I've got for the moment...but I should see at least some variation on the voltage which is not the case; I measured 0V continuously. I will borrow a scope and try again.

 

I don't get any information on the ADIC :/

Like I said before removing it I got 55 and after removing it I got 20

 

Can you elaborate choyda ?

 

Thanks for the help I really appreciated it

Edited by bigboss59400

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CAS is the thing on the end of the camshaft that tells the ecu when to fire the plugs and injectors. If you are going to take it off and haven't got a timing light mark it carefully so you that if its ok you can put it back in exactly the same position. Turn it by hand to feel if the bearings are stuffed. With the key on turn it and see if it fires the plugs (maybe pull one out and look for a spark (making sure it has a good earth). If it does look inside the cas and the end of the cam shaft to see if the drive has been damaged.

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I think you pointed it out !!

I don't have 20 but 11 ! one long and one short in fact !

11 corresponds to 11 - Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor

I will investigated that thank you so much !

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I didn't find the edit option...

 

When cranking the engine the ring of the cam sensor don't move so I will remove completely the sensor and see what's behind.

Do you have an idea what can be the root cause ? (it looks like mechanical issue ...)

see attachment

20190714_114130.png

20190714_122732.jpg

20190714_123703.jpg

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And ref the root cause - probably ground the drive off the end of the cam, by the looks of all them chips in there.

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21 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yes, because there are no codes ending in zero.....

I didn't noticed that thanks!

22 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

And ref the root cause - probably ground the drive off the end of the cam, by the looks of all them chips in there. 

Okay I will remove sensor and see

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So end of the story

the bearing blocked and then the axe broke.

I guess the axe can't be bought individually and I will need a new one ?

What about buying an used one and changed the bearing ? (cost less)

Thanks for your rapidity and advices !

20190714_153814.jpg

20190714_153751.jpg

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On 7/15/2019 at 3:20 AM, bigboss59400 said:

Just for information I found some on aliexpress

They look OEM I will buy and see

Thanks for all

There are basically two - one with plastic cap like yours Hitachi 2371 5L 300

The other one is a Mitsubishi with metal cap 2371 02U11 which will not work.

Have a look at the end of the camshaft and see if the drive appears to be damaged.

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