Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Posting over from another forum so some things may be broken and out of date. 

April 2015

 Since purchasing it a few months back, I've done a few minor things to it such as fitting a bracket to secure the pod filter. Bought a HKS EVC (yet to be installed) and just recently bought some new rims. 

Plans from here:

  • Fix bootlid holes
  • Get a nistune and have the car tuned. Running a bit rich currently
  • Bigger injectors
  • better fuel pump
  • Rocker Arm Stoppers
  • Cams

As I bought it 
wqA0a5O.jpg

My garage now (evo is for sale if anybody wants it) 

SBABsHy.jpg
iqE1SNO.jpg

After fitting the new wheels. Advan RZ. 17x9 and 17x9.5. Hankook RS3 in the front, Dunlop Direzza in the back. Tiny bit of poke in front and back so will need to get guards rolled a bit. Rear can go a bit lower, need to adjust camber on front and back and get an alignment done. 
662nScp.jpg
KWO4Ncy.jpg
sDuPtr7.jpg

Edited by RP1421
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477910-s15-spec-r/
Share on other sites

May 2015

Not much progress on the car as studies have been priority. 

Changed the caster arms from the ones in the photo below  to something more adjustable. 

kaZrK0l.jpg

Got these Carbon Fibre origin under canards on the cheap locally so will be going on some time soon hopefully when I can be bothered to pull the bumper off to do it. 
M0xI5c0.jpg

Edited by RP1421
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477910-s15-spec-r/#findComment-7911697
Share on other sites

August 2015

 

Not much progress on the car since uni/work has been consuming most of my time. 

Finally got around to installing the canards. I've ordered some c-west canards to round out the front. Also in the same order are a pair of clear indicators so hopefully they arrive soon! Nabbed a set of advan wheel nuts too, which makes the wheel setup a nice trifecta (wheels, centre caps and wheel nuts). 
ss2gydG.jpg

Also got my hands on a rare bit of kit, an ARC cooling panel (yes they provide very little, if any cooling benefit) but a cool bit of kit nonetheless. 
qU4UI1b.jpg

Also purchased some Yashio Smoked tail lights but I didn't really like them so I am selling them for $550 (reply here and I'll PM you etc). 


Still gotta get the EVC, Z32, Nismo 740's etc installed and tuned :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477910-s15-spec-r/#findComment-7911698
Share on other sites

September 2015

 

Got fitted up with some new RE003 since my rears were becoming average and losing traction easily. Wanted to get 255 or 265 in the rear but 245 is the widest available in 17" :( . So still 225/45/17 in the front and now 245/45/17 in the rear. 


IBMt7wY.jpg

2EWn7di.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477910-s15-spec-r/#findComment-7911699
Share on other sites

September 2015

 

Not much upgrades as such lately. Went on a long run out to the dam with a local group and the car with the brace and new tyres handles like a dream. 

Picked up a pair of lights for an absolute steal for $60! Have the plugs ( I think), just need to get a relay, stalk and fog-light grills.

Drh8f6h.jpg

Also picked up a Defi Advance with everything needed to go on an S15.

xckzvzc.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477910-s15-spec-r/#findComment-7911700
Share on other sites

October 2015

Ordered a set of DBA 4000 series rotors with the new Forza FP3 pads (which Brakes Direct have been backing ) as a solid street and track pad combo, should be here soon hopefully. Went for a quick shoot after a clean with a cousin of mine. 

e2zqhhC.jpg


EMptojG.jpg

oDtou3v.jpg

Edited by RP1421
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477910-s15-spec-r/#findComment-7911701
Share on other sites

November 2015

Uni finished for the year so getting my list of parts in starting with the brake setup (see above for details) and used Castrol Super Dot 4 fluid (car already had braided lines in the front ). Haven't had time to test properly yet but initial testing is excellent and there is a lot of stopping power than I expected which shall take some getting used to. 

2eizhO6.jpg

6GznlbQ.jpg

mJJeizN.jpg

BXhHpyl.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477910-s15-spec-r/#findComment-7911702
Share on other sites

January 2016

Have been planning this for a long time so I finally bit the bullet and purchased a DAS6 from CCP + a few other products and took to removing swirls. It took about two days and it was stinking hot even in the garage. Thankfully the work lights were LED and not halogen so my suffering wasn't all too bad. Used Menzerna cutting polish and sealed it with Duragloss. Fairly happy with the results especially with the car being 18 years old. 

All masked up 
3Y02l83.jpg

Aforementioned work lights (very cheap from bunnings and plenty bright)
HdaeioA.jpg

Before
v65348N.jpg

After
JLvF2og.jpg

QwLEcJb.jpg

ajR2hAU.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477910-s15-spec-r/#findComment-7911703
Share on other sites

January 2016

Scored these in near new condition. Have to sort out lines and fittings and yes there is a thermostat. Planning on trackdays in the near future so should be excellent. Has slightly delayed in the installation of the Defi Advance Zd while I organise lines for these. 

SNSRRzo.jpg

BhkdDhH.jpg

HI9G5ai.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477910-s15-spec-r/#findComment-7911704
Share on other sites

February 2016

So the car finally had all the parts I've accumulated over the past year installed and tuned. Capable of up to 235kw,dialled back for safety and reliability. Car was tuned at 101 Motorsport

The modifications thus far are as follows 

Intake 
3" dump and front pipe 
Apexi 3" catback 
Splitfire coilpacks 
Z32 afm
Tomei rocker arm stoppers 
Sard FPR
Walbro 255
Nismo 740cc injectors 
HKS EVC 
Apexi power fc 

Fairly standard SR mods list (I think that's everything) but now all I really need is better turbo and cams. Outside of going E85 and fully built, I'll be happy and should net ~240-250kw. Yet to organise the Defi Advance Zd and oil cooler + relo kit.

7EGTwKT.jpg

bdIkHqh.jpg

XZBZdBs.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477910-s15-spec-r/#findComment-7911705
Share on other sites

April 2016

Haven't had much of a chance to give the car a proper drive outside of driving to uni and back. Took care of some little jobs like the number plate bracket and finally changed over my tie rods. One side was absolutely stuffed, the boot disintegrated quite badly. Upgraded to some new Tein inner and outer rods, much beefier than their stock counterparts. Also got myself some Advan RZ wheel stickers, which look nice imo (not cheap though!)
RnjDBhe.jpg

1MeeewI.jpg

xwqKjHT.jpg

itNX1jG.jpg

hA5C5gm.jpg

GeLPRxA.jpg

Edited by RP1421
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477910-s15-spec-r/#findComment-7911706
Share on other sites

July 2016

Been a while since I updated this, not much happened in the way of modifications, fairly happy with how the car is, still haven't done the oil cooler + Defi install. Been looking into a new turbo and cams set up to get to around ~240kw.  Aside from that, just minor things being done. Fuel pump died on me (new Walbro 255 purchased in Feb) and the car died in the middle of a major main road, which was fun to say the least. 

ZoMi351.jpg

Replacing it was easy enough, just an annoying job. 

Scored a Nismo kill-switch which looks nice with the Nismo leather shift knob 

AeoIeHT.jpg

Then just been going on cruises with friends (lets to be honest, to play Pokemon Go mainly), here's a picture of my friends 34 GTT with a RB26 in it (I took the picture ) 

ASo6zKb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477910-s15-spec-r/#findComment-7911707
Share on other sites

September 2016

Being a bit annoyed at the ride height situation (and general suspension geometry) after having to change the front pair of wheels, I've been scoping out some new wheels with sufficient wheel to coilover clearance. I picked up a set of TE37. Fitment will be aggressive but this should allow me to dial in the suspension a bit better (perhaps some MCA coilovers soon) 

Oq2t7O4.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477910-s15-spec-r/#findComment-7911708
Share on other sites

October 2016

So the wheels are still not on yet, got a fair bit to do such as ensuring it's within guards so guard work, rear camber arms, swap tyres over and mess around with the height till I find something suitable. All of which I don't have time for at the moment. I did however apply Gyeon rim to the wheels. Very happy with how they performed on the Advans and any brake dust struggles to stick the coating. So much so you can just wipe it off with your finger even on the backside in the barrels,  certainly makes cleaning easy as I don't need to use a brush to agitate the dirt. I do apply Bowden's Wheely Clean but this is to just prevent buildup of tougher grime but it's a spray and rinse affair. 

pLVB6pt.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477910-s15-spec-r/#findComment-7911709
Share on other sites

July 2017

 

So super long time since the last update, mainly since there haven't been any modifications made to the car. I'm still enjoying the heck out of it, it's been reliable and always a joy to drive (it is my daily after all). Additionally, most finances have been directed to setting up a toolbox and financing new tools not only to work on the car but also a space to work on other household jobs. 

YCXFBpC.jpg

cItMSV0.jpg

That's not to say I haven't been working on the car. Just routine maintenance, the transmission and diff oil seemed to be in fairly good condition which is a good sign. 

PS: Would highly recommend the Hafco service tray, makes doing things like the spark plugs so much faster and eliminates the risk of dropping things in the engine bay etc. Also has some holes to stash pry bars and screwdrivers etc. 

SGIyBfK.jpg

2OcFiVY.jpg

Have also been dedicating more time towards taking photos, the local cars and coffee meets are going great here (can post some pictures here if there's interest otherwise, can see them on my insta https://www.instagram.com/raunak_/ 

Will finish up this post with a "glamour" shot of my car I took some months ago 

DizWwHg.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477910-s15-spec-r/#findComment-7911712
Share on other sites

Quote

Garage looks better than the TE37s. Really like the tones of the post processing.

Thanks mate haha 

Finally hit the track today and having never been on this track other than as a passenger on happy laps, the goal was to familiarise myself with the track and car. It was an extremely packed day with 5 groups in total and it was difficult to put together a good lap whether it be due to traffic, flagged session and/or my own mistakes causing me to abort the lap. All that aside,  I was aiming to lap at least 1:10 and anything faster would be a bonus. As luck would have it, the GoPro didn't my best session but my fastest time was a 1:10.74, which I was stoked with. Overall, the car felt extremely good out there with strong points being the brakes and power. Still got plenty of time in it with better driving. Will try to find some half-decent footage from one of the sessions but otherwise a photo will suffice for now :)

4YHdDe6.jpg

bx4R0Wf.jpg

The aforementioned footage, wasn't my fastest lap since I was easing off for S2000 (much faster through the corners)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxdNRPKOTtk

Edited by RP1421
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477910-s15-spec-r/#findComment-7911713
Share on other sites

August 2017

Delivery time! 

Ever since I purchased the car, I've been wanting to buy a Nismo cluster. I prefer the clean, black aesthetic over the stock cluster (even though it's quite good in its own right).  Got it brand new for a good price, so I can't complain. 

On the bench, packaged very nicely in a massive box (not pictured) and the cluster itself surrounded with very soft, plush cushion type material (the white stuff under the cluster)
Oo1vaIa.jpg

Installed! Very easy to install, just a matter of undoing a couple of screws, pulling off fascia and unplugging some plugs for the cluster. Probably would have been faster if the fiddly alarm light which sits on the steering column panel wanted to play nice but when is anything ever straightforward? 
XME9pzw.jpg

Glamour shot. That's what we're here for right ? 
p1LeOx5.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477910-s15-spec-r/#findComment-7911714
Share on other sites

March 2018

Been some time since I've posted here but in any case, things have more or less remained the same until about now. My floor mats were in a pretty sorry state. Unfortunately Nismo ones are now discontinued and I'm not particularly interested in getting Aus-spec mats which have 200SX on them and I didn't really like the pattern effect on the JDM version. After some researching, I came across these. While they were a little more costly compared to OEM, upon arrival it definitely seems worth the extra cost. They're made to order, high quality finish and a lot thicker and overall I'd say OEM++. 

U960l8z.jpg

Prior to just swapping these in, I spent a good few hours going through the interior, scrubbing down panels with the pictured cleaner + pad and then buffing with a MF Towel. While it didn't look drastically different, I knew it was worth the effort because the amount of dirt I pulled out was crazy. Definitely good piece of mind knowing everything is nice and clean. Was hoping to do a wet vac clean of the interior mats and seats but I haven't been able to secure the appliance. 

o7jw9rA.jpg

And here's the final look, I much prefer the simplicity of black and doesn't stick out like a sore thumb like the OEM ones do. 

6so80A9.jpg


Coming soon is a much much improved front end which I've really been looking forward to !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477910-s15-spec-r/#findComment-7911715
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...