Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


Old GTS link ECU Tuners Sydney


WPN-O33
 Share

Recommended Posts

Morning guys,

 

Been a long time  since ive been on here good to see the forum is still going!

I have  S2 GTST that ive had for 15+ years  and i just want to pick youre brains about who will re-tune my ecu.

Its been running sweet as since last tune 12 years ago at CRD but im about to do some mods and wont be outlaying the $$ on a haltech till the end of next year.

The question is who will still tune my Dinosaur GTS link ecu from the early 2000's ? 

BTW: Yes i know its shit and old but i dont care just need to find a current tuner that will do it.

JEM dont really want to touch it & neither do unigroup really from when i have asked them previously.

 

Has anyone still got this shit ECU and know who will retune it for me? The car has all supporting mods and makes good power already but i will be putting at Gen2 Low mount on it and want to have it running on mild boost until end of next year when the haltech comes along.

I am in western sydney & appreciate any help.

Many thanks,

 

Billy

7585954992_IMG_2924 (2).jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just wondering, why do you want to spend about $1,000 on a tune when the ECU is going to be replaced? Wouldn't you just put that money towards the new ECU?

I am curious, I can't even find your ecu when googling, is it a 'Link' brand ECU, and the model of ECU is 'GTS'? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would be surprised if anyone would now.

If you have the version I am thinking of they will need an adapter to connect to it - not sure if they are even made anymore.  There is rugged old software which needs to be used to tune it.  From memory these might not even use IAT correction, cold start and acceleration enrichment are done with a single magic number which no one really knows what exactly represents, and really they are basic as hell.

With the level of modifications you are talking about I am not surprised that people would just say no, especially with the temperature range you deal with in Sydney.  Realistically if you are spending a bunch of money and the money you are spending is not fixing the weakest link in your setup then it's the kind of thing that would raise alarm bells for a tuner - knowing that more often than not if something goes wrong they're going to be the ones blamed. 

I'm not saying that as a wind up, just giving some heads up what and why the reasons you may struggle to find anyone and possibly give insight as to why maybe you should take on board the fact you are having issues finding someone to tune it could be for your own good. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I say buy the turbo next year, and get the ECU now. Either way, you won't be getting the benefits of "more power than now" without a tune or new ecu AND the turbo itself. May even be able to save money on the Turbo itself, get a Hiflow turbo instead and an ECU as a package.

Assuming it currently has a well tuned stock turbo on it currently. What turbo is currently there and what is 'good power' in that context?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My tarmac rally car had one of these in it!

I couldn't find anyone with a computer that ran on steam to tune it, so the logical solution was to spend $15k on Motec shit.

I'm pretty sure it's still in the shed if I can find it you are welcome to it, has a tune for RB20 with highflow and made about 7kw at the wheels, good for 1:45 at Sandown.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depending on the age of the firmware in the ECU you'll need to either find a tuner with either a hand controller (not many people would have one these days) or a SerialLink interface. Pop the lid off the computer and have a look at the label on the microcontroller - if it says GTS with a Q/R/S or T on the end it is laptop tuneable with PCLink using the adapter. I might still have a SerialLink in a box somewhere and could put you in touch with someone who may be willing to tune it but you'd need to be willing to travel out of Sydney.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, my car issues seem to be going from bad to worse and I’m hoping someone can offer some advice. I’m a Brit and have asked for help on the Brit forums but they’re not as active as they once were.    To save my thumbs I’m just going to copy and paste my posts from the Brit forum. I hope this isn’t considered lazy or rude:- 1st post…… For a while now my dash warning lights on my R34 GTT have been coming on. All of the them. When it happens the car runs like a bag of s**t. I pull over. Turn the car off and back on and the problem goes away. It doesn’t happen again for ages and then all of a sudden the dash lights up and the car is struggling. This has become more and more frequent and it’s now pretty much undrivable. I need to sort this out but don’t know where to start looking. A quick search around the forums and I’m thinking maybe coil packs but I don’t want to just change parts for the hell of it. 2nd post…… Ok the latest in the saga……. I decided to replace the spark plugs and coil packs to eliminate them as the problem. I figured they were over 20 years old and could do with being replaced anyway. I’ve just been out to have a go at changing them but the car won’t start. It turns over fine but won’t fire. I had a replacement CAS here so have swapped that out but it still won’t fire. Pretty sure I’m getting fuel to the injectors as I can smell it! Any ideas? Should the coil pack harness have a constant 12v feed once the ignition is on? Can I test this just by putting a meter across the + and ground pins? Is there a relay or something that should give the harness power once the ignition is on? Any ideas/advice would be appreciated. I’m at my wits end. Don’t know where to start looking really???
    • Hi guys, im a Brit who’s been using this forum for a while. I’m after some help so thought I’d come on and introduce myself. my name is Paddy and I’m an old man (46)! I own an R34 GTT in cloud white. Had it a good few years and do enjoy driving it! Also enjoy the attention it gets.  for those of you who are interested I’ve posted a couple of pics. Not the best pics in the world and they seem to of come out worse than the originals but you get the picture   Will post my issues in the relevant forum. I hope you guys can offer some advice.    thanks. 
    • Started installing the meth kit last night, managed to get it mounted so I could still access the awd resevior. Battery is located on other side I figured this was a nice spot for it. Cheers mates.
    • I saw the E in the model number and stopped thinking. Might not be correct there.
    • As soon as I come on boost that rear housing area, along with all the stuff connected to it will get pretty toasty and I'm not the type to race for a whole 10s or so 😘
×
×
  • Create New...