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PAR gearset fo street gtr's


denisgtr
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I’ve been running a par 1-4 straight cut syncro box with stock 5th for around 4years

cars never seen less then 620kw, max was 690kw

mad gearboxes for street use and racing 

I did smash a selector at the drags once but I’ve got billet ones in there now 

 

afew other mates are running the same gear seats with power from 550kw to 600kw again no issues

 

another mate is running their full dog gear set with bigger input etc 

thats in their 2.8 billet block engine with nos getting tuned next week 

 

is anyone needs sams number im more then happy to pass it on if your keen on talking/buying a gearset  from him 

Edited by SiR_RB
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  • 3 weeks later...

Thats essentially what I have, with an OS giken centre plate and the optional billet selector barrel interlock. I take it your talking about the input shaft spline. You can get either Nissan 24 tooth 25.4mm or GM / Holinger 26 tooth 28.5mm input shaft splines, you specify when ordering. I upgraded to the 26 tooth, It's much beefier and really should be used instead of the Nissan spline.

What clutch do you have ? If it's a multiplate just get the different centre hub for your clutch as they generally all have the 26tooth hubs available. My ATS triple centre was about $250 and the Gikens are cheaper at around $150 from memory.

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Yes you need an OS Giken hub specifically. Although sorry to say TS2BD does not have an interchangeable centre hub like the R series (R3C, R4C), the hub is part of the friction plates. This design makes it more expensive to rebuild the clutch as opposed to most high end multi plate designs, because the centre hubs are dampened and part of the plate, instead of solid and having a separate hub. So in your case you would need a different clutch to run the 26 tooth input shaft which kinda sucks for you. Id sell the clutch and get a modular type clutch. See what I mean below:

TS2BD

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSpBl-i6Nqj-Rl89KyWbj4

R3C

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSoXHWSyyaGJGJjF2aaAmf

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I see, thanks for that, much appreciated for the informative replies. Do you know if the gearset has a torque limit/rating? I'd be keen to max out my 9180 on it.

My build is nearing completion, so I'll have to stick with my stock 5 speed box till the money tree grows back up again.

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Yes aftermarket gearboxes are not cheap. Will it handle the 9180 ? Thats anyone's guess, but the same can be said about any gearbox. Torque ratings are subjective. Most performance gearset manufacturers (Pfitzner, Holinger, Albins ect) are a little wary of labelling their stuff with a definitive rating, because as soon as something fails people jump up and down about it not performing to the specified rating. All I can tell you is that the PAR gearsets are made out of EN36C steel. Holinger is a little more vague saying they use a VAR chrome nickel by comparison. Pfitzner do not disclose their material type at all, same as Albins stating they use their own "propriety grade material". Here's my take on aftermarket gearboxes:

All dog boxes are a bit of a gamble as all, and I mean ALL dog boxes will fail eventually if not properly looked after, some sooner than others. So many factors come into it - design, assembly quality, torque applied to gears, conditions of use, lubricants used, thermal management, operation technique and so on.You don't hear about when the PPG, OS88 and Holinger's fail as much because they are so expensive. No one wants to really say they've destroyed a $20k - $30k transmission publicly, but they will all fail at some point if not looked after and managed / used correctly.

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  • 3 months later...
  • 4 months later...

hey guys looking at the same thing for my GTS4 has rb26 will be making 600-700HP want a strong box for it..  do u send your box to PAR and they put it all together whats the go ????

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I was going to get the interlock barrel anyways but he said they now Include them in the gearset ?. Didn't ask about 5th other then 5th is helical.. and went for the 26t spline .. one thing I was sceptical of was he said needing a billet centre plate was a myth.. what's your thought on this?

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Needing a centre plate is not a myth. Highly recommended, keeps the main shaft and counter shafts from slight misalignments under torque loading because they flex less. Helical gears make this problem worse with the thrust loads they create so it isn't as big of a problem with straight cut gears, but can still be an issue. If you look earlier in this thread you see my gearset pics, I went with the OS giken billet centre plate as it was about $300 cheaper than the Pfitzner one. Make no mistake, the factory one is a soft, light piece of cast crap in comparison to a billet one that weighs about 4kg.

Regarding 5th, the normal straight cut dog set retains your factory 5th. Getting a dog and straight cut 5th is an additional cost option. The fact that it is straight cut dog box 1st - 4th with a synchro + helical 5th is a big part of the reason I went this way. If I wanted all straight cut and dog gears I probably would've went the Pfitzner set.

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Regarding the uprated 28.5mm GM 26t input shaft, it's amazing how much bigger it is than the standard 24t Nissan 25.4mm one. These are the pictures from the front of mine comparing them. The spline dimensions listed don't tell the whole story, look how small the Nissan shaft is before the spline !

WP_20191012_17_14_03_Pro.jpg

WP_20191012_17_14_10_Pro.jpg

WP_20191012_16_59_08_Pro.jpg

  • Like 1
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Yeh wow the difference is huge! Thanks alot for your advice mate?, I was going to buy a centre plate regardless since I'm allready going this far with it?.. I will sus the os centre plate out now.. cheers

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