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R34 Track/Street Car


Tobz
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11 hours ago, UWISSH! said:

I wouldn’t go posting about the exact type of alarm I have on my car. 

Honestly doesn't matter as majority of alarms are wired the same way, unless you've done it yourself and disabled non conventional circuits and hidden everything.

At the end of the day it's just a deterrent device from opportunists.

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13 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

At the end of the day it's just a deterrent device from opportunists.

100% this, if somebody wants to steal something they will work out a way to take it. I am just trying to stop the people who are opportunists

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On 10/17/2020 at 6:55 PM, UWISSH! said:

I wouldn’t go posting about the exact type of alarm I have on my car. 

Or would you post a different model so it will throw people off track?

End of the day any alarm is only as good as the install, and even the best alarm ever isn't that good anyway.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So recently did the local hillclimb here in Canberra. Car performed amazingly, first time i have really felt the car was doing what I wanted. It was a 2 lap event and managed a 82.91 second time which 5th overall for the day (was beaten by Porsche GT3, Evo X & Westfield Clubman) There was a nicely modified Soarer there as well and we traded times all day, but he pipped me at the end. Overall was a great day!

Have a trackday organised with the Gemini car club next week, so started preparing the car for that. Took it to pedders for the cheap suspension check, overall car was good but everything was a bit loose. I let them do a full suspension torque service where they went and torqued all the suspension components to specification. Before i dropped off the car there were a lot of noises coming from everywhere... after i picked it up, it is super silent, its amazing what happens when the nuts and bolts are done up to spec!

I also got them to do a quick alignment, as there are not many really good alignment shops in Canberra, the settings I went for are:

-3 degrees front camber

6 degrees caster

1.5mm front toe out

-1.5 degrees rear camber

0 rear toe

 

Just need to do an oil change, check the gearbox and diff oil and I'm ready for Wakefield!  Hopefully there will be more grip out there as when i went earlier in the year we were the first on track after the COVID closure, it was slippery as anything out there.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Go to out to wakefield today. Only got 20 laps in before I realised my tyres started delaminating. Reading up on it, seems to be a common  issue for Kumho V70A's at wakefield. Not sure why it happens though. 

 

Used the first 5 laps to bed in some new brake rotors (got some 2 piece rotors) did 10 laps with an instructor as I have been struggling with turn 2 since the move to the skyline and then 5 hot laps before the tyre started to go on me. Ended up with a 1.09 but there is plenty left in the car! Can't wait to get out here again with some new tyres.

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Edited by Tobz
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Its interesting as i never had any issues with the rx8, but the skyline I've done this twice to the front left, and my mate with an evo X has done it three times... 

Also had a mate have a similar issue with the s700 slicks on an 86

I'm wondering if its a weight issue, or a camber issue or just a driving technique or tyre pressure thing. 

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Well, I'd definitely talk to the retailer, they will have more experience. And of course there could be some issue with a batch but that is less likely.

The big thing I found with those tyres is they work better with unusually high pressures, over 40 hot works best. If you are running well below that try higher. Given that is the outside letting go you probably don't have enough camber for your springs/rollbar setup at that track but that is hard to address on a road car. But likely it is mostly tyre temp, the front left works hard at wakie, so especially over longer sessions on a hot day and depending on how soft the compound is that is where I would start. Just get a infra-red pyrometer and check surface temp of that tyres straight after a session

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Cool build thread!

i thought I'd add a bit about your Blitz intercooler, as I've just swapped mine out for a GTR style 600x300x100 setup.

I'm running a old HKS 2535, E85 for 280rwkw at 20psi, drops off to 18 up top. The intercooler swap I gained around 15kw through most of the midrange, and 50nm more torque. The turbo is out of puff completely now, but it was a worthwhile swap. The car is much punchier and quicker.

The only downside is you'll need to relocate the oil cooler as the intercooler pipe exits where you have it - mine was the same! And you'll need to put in a aftermarket washer bottle

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35 minutes ago, Chris32 said:

GTR style 600x300x100 setup

I think that's the way to go. I just don't want to drill the engine bay... do you have any pics of the install? Also I have no idea where I'd move the oil cooler, I guess I can see how the gtrs do it

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7 hours ago, Tobz said:

I think that's the way to go. I just don't want to drill the engine bay... do you have any pics of the install? Also I have no idea where I'd move the oil cooler, I guess I can see how the gtrs do it

I'll take a few pics next time I've got the front bar off. The GTR style cooler helps with the oil cooler relocation a little,as the end tank outlet bends back at 45 degrees. I used a ebay over the radiator fan kit for a 600x300 cooler (non GTR style) which fit OK, and cut the hot and cold side pipes on the kit and used a 45 degree 3" to 2.5" silicon bend off the intercooler.

The oil cooler now sits at 45 degrees, pointing from the corner of the drivers side back towards the cooler pipework. I've attached a pic of that - I had originally moved it to be square towards the oncoming airflow but towards the wheel, but a rock flicked up and put a small hole in the cooler,so I positioned the new one right up the front.

Oil temps on spirited road driving is back to how it was prior to swapping the intercooler, so it's working in that spot

I've attached a pic of the dyno back to back also.

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  • 1 month later...

So have decided I want to chase a bit more power, my goal is 450rwhp, nothing rediculous on E85.

Am potentially going to use jem for the tuning, have been in touch with them and they recommended some changes to help achieve my goal.

I have removed the blitz return flow and got myself a HPI Spec S front mount, which was available at a very good price. Seems like a quality kit so far.

Also my ARP 2000 head studs arrived in the mail today and will be changing them one by one to avoid replacing the head gasket sometime in the next few days. 

Tao from hypergear is also sending me a stock manifold with an external gate to pop on the car with a 45mm turbo smart wastegate. I already have a Mac boost solenoid on the car.

Popping the front mount on wasn't too bad, did require me to move my oil cooler though. Wasn't too bad to change and didn't require any changes to hoses or fittings.

Hopefully manifold arrives soon and I can book it in to jem (around a 2 month wait for a tune at the moment!)

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Edited by Tobz
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  • 2 weeks later...

Small update!

I've swapped the head studs on the car, first time doing that, have a whole thread on that experience... It's scary doing it for the first time, as it makes no sense how those nuts can take so much torque!

Few parts have arrived, got a new exhaust manifold from hypergear, it's a standard manifold with an external wastegate fitting. Nice little kit and very good price. Came with a Hyper-gate 45. Unsure yet if I will leave as a screamer or plumb it back.

Also while the valve covers were off, I gave them a clean up and painted them wrinkle black. The little parts washer I had made this super easy to prep. Considering how cheap they are, they are definately with the $80 they cost.

Also my new venom cat with a 5 inch body arrived, looks to be really good quality and price was very reasonable.

Just waiting on some new exhaust studs, some parts to block off my internal wastegate and then I'll start putting the car back together and hopefully get it retuned and meet my new power goals :)

also got a full genuine Nissan gasket kit, amazing how much cheaper it is to buy it as a full kit, was around 245 and comes with everything except the half moons. Was going to cost me more than that just to buy the turbo gaskets, copper washers, intake gasket and cam seals seperately... So at least I have spares of all the seals I haven't replaced now, including a head gasket.

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