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Tobz

R34 Track/Street Car

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Only a few small updates, needed to block off the internal wastegate flap, managed to get this Cobb Racing part that looks pretty good! 

 

Having troubles getting the exhaust manifold back on. Both the original and my new one won't fit. I'm thinking the manifold studs may be warped, so have ordered some new ones and hopefully that fixes it!! It fits on the ends but not the centre studs for some reason.

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Edited by Tobz
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Was the original manifold tight to get off? You'll probably find your manifolds are warped slightly. I had 4 manis in my spare parts pile. 2 of them wouldn't fit when i tried them. 

If replacing the studs doesn't fix the problem, you could try enlarging the bolt holes that require it as a quick fix and hope it bolts down good and doesn't leak.

When i had asked an engineer at work about machining the face of the mani, he didn't recommend it and suggested heating it up and straightening it was the best solution, obviously requires special equipment. I ended up just binning it and using a good spare.

Another thing you can try is removing the studs that are fouling, put the mani on and see if you can thread the studs in from the outside. If that doesn't work, at least you'll see how far out the holes are and how much to relieve.

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Yer manifold was impossible to remove, used many breaker bars, however I have a replacement manifold from hypergear to go on. The new manifold may also be warped though as it's a stock manifold with an external gate welded on. I'll change the studs and see where that leaves me and then contact hypergear if there is an issue

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New studs arrived and now the manifold fits perfect. Looks like the studs warped pretty badly, but the manifold didn't... Which works for me!

Just need my new turbo studs and a silicone joiner to arrive and then it should be all back together. 

Also does anyone know what the effect of swapping to a proper cooler from a return flow, and going from an iwg to ewg would have on the tune? I'm getting the car retuned either way, but just interested to know if I can take it for a bit of drive to test everything is bolted up right (and get it on boost to see if all the couplers and such are all holding fine).

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Edited by Tobz
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Cooler? Nothing - Unless your IAT actually changes as a result of it. I've seen people spend big on an intercooler for an 0kw difference.

IWG to EWG will make a considerable difference as this actually changes boost. Presumably though if you're already MAP based going from say 16PSI IWG to 16 PSI EWG won't change much, you're more likely to notice that your 16PSI is actually holding rock solid to 7500RPM whereas it may not if 16PSI was your target on an IWG (i.e as hard as you could max it out).

You may notice something by holding boost better. Most people go EWG when they cant hit their desired target with IWG.

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Yeh just keep an eye on your boost levels, both mods have the potential to change how much boost and when it comes on, which can mean you run lean in certain areas of the map.

Intercooler doesn't necessarily have to change your IAT, a return flow is always going to be a fairly large restriction to flow. If you then change that and make it flow a lot better, you lower the potential for boost drop, and more importantly you allow the boost to come on earlier. Depending on how your car was tuned, that could be an issue if you have moved the boost graph to the left. If you have a good boost controller you should still have the peak boost level under control, but where it occurs on the map is potentially different. Couple that with the effects of changing to a EWG as well, which Kinkstaah nailed, and you have potentially given yourself quite a bit of extra range in the map where you are at peak boost. 

 

So just be aware. It's definitely one where you want to get your tune checked, because who wants to lunch a motor (especially in this day and age!) because their mods worked. I wouldn't be too scared to take it for a test drive and at least get it ramping up to full boost in 2nd gear, but I wouldn't be holding it on peak boost just for the sake of seeing if your couplers are holding. 

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Finally got the car back together and took itmfor a drive. 

Changes to the intercooler and external wastegate have changed everything.

Before I was told the turbo was being restricted either by the intercooler or exhaust.

Having swapped out the return flow and also going to an external gate has released the restriction

It needs to be retuned as the power is defo coming on early, but also the ebc cannot control boost. Did a slow pull in second and the boost crept past 20psi which should be the limit.  It's a Mac valve and a 14psi spring on the gate. Looks like it may need some setup done on it

AFRs all looked good.

Trying to organise a time to get retuned now. But overall so far I'm very happy

Also added a 5inch body venom cat, installed some Sparco r100 seats and got the harness installed! 

 

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Edited by Tobz
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Thank you for posting a pic of Sparco R100's - I was thinking of putting those in.


What rails did you use? There's an ebay mob selling a kit, but I never got that far. I wanted the black leather ones 😛

How do they work/fit/comfort wise? Looks like enough clearance.

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12 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

What rails did you use?

I used the crank motorsport seat subframes and just universal rails :)

 

clearance was more than fine. Seats are a little hard but more than fine, nice bolstering. Overall I really like them

Edited by Tobz
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1 hour ago, Manuel Kasko said:

Oh man what a journey! I just read from start to finish and I'm stoked with what you've done with the car since I sold it. 

Keep the updates coming Tobz! 

It was a super solid base to work from! Love the little beast!

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How does the X-Trail pedal fit up compared to the 350Z? I've read that the Z just bolts right up, but the pad position falls slightly too close to the brake pedal unless modified.

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5 hours ago, JarrettL said:

How does the X-Trail pedal fit up compared to the 350Z? I've read that the Z just bolts right up, but the pad position falls slightly too close to the brake pedal unless modified.

 

Can confirm on the 350Z pedal. It's super easy though, just throw it in the vice and bend it a little bit. Its a steel arm, so not going to break and you can manipulate it around to your liking. It only needs to move like an inch to the right, and fitment otherwise is perfect.

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